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Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952
Posted on: 11/11/06 11:28 AM ET
Hi everyone,
I want to sew this pattern Vogue8134
I usually need an FBA of 1". Any suggestions on how to do this without messing up the look of the Jacket?
Thanks,
Judy
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I want to sew this pattern Vogue8134
I usually need an FBA of 1". Any suggestions on how to do this without messing up the look of the Jacket?
Thanks,
Judy
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judyp
Posted on: 11/11/06 11:38 AM ET
Wow! I love this pattern and will have to get it!
Anyway, back to your question. It appears to me that the dart has been rotated into the diagonal seam that. To add the FBA you'd need to work it in there.
I need to run, so can't provide more than an impression right now. I'm sure you'll get more help throughout the day.
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Anyway, back to your question. It appears to me that the dart has been rotated into the diagonal seam that. To add the FBA you'd need to work it in there.
I need to run, so can't provide more than an impression right now. I'm sure you'll get more help throughout the day.
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Now blogging at http://sewwest.blogspot.com
Posted on: 11/11/06 11:45 AM ET
I think nanflan's right. But you might want to rotate only part of the dart to that seam, maybe even splitting it between both sides of the seam, and also rotating part of it back out at the sideseam. A 1" FBA isn't huge so it shouldn't affect the design in a bad way to do that. This is one, though, that I'd definitely do a muslin for just to be sure the resulting diagonals end up the way you want them.
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
Posted on: 11/11/06 2:17 PM ET
In reply to Debbie Cook
Question for you, Debbie--why do you recommend rotating out part of the bust dart?
As a member of the BHD club, I've tried a lot of variations on the theme of what to do with a bust dart when you don't want to look at it. My experience with the rotating-out method is that it is a guaranteed way to add drag lines to a top.
I know you have a reason to recommend this, just hoping you'll share it--TIA!
As a member of the BHD club, I've tried a lot of variations on the theme of what to do with a bust dart when you don't want to look at it. My experience with the rotating-out method is that it is a guaranteed way to add drag lines to a top.
I know you have a reason to recommend this, just hoping you'll share it--TIA!
Posted on: 11/11/06 2:32 PM ET
In reply to Susan in Tucson
Quote:
BHD club
BHD club
?? Big Honkin' Dart ??
I'm recommending rotating only a *portion* of the dart to the sideseam, mostly because I think it will keep the visual integrity of that diagonal seam. A 1" FBA isn't a lot, esp. when you are splitting part to the seam and the rest to the sideseam.
But yes, if I'm right about BHD and you do rotate a honkin' big dart
entirely to the sideseam, you're going to have some folds. It's the nature of the breast ... er ... beast. 
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
Posted on: 11/12/06 1:00 PM ET
In reply to Debbie Cook
Big Honkin' Dart--you got it! Sorry, should have provided a translation the first time.
A 1 inch FBA is pretty dang small, so certainly I agree that manipulating it the way you recommended wouldn't affect fit or appearance much.
Trying to hide, say, 4 inches worth of dart, on the other hand...whole other ball game, as you say, and no, it's not a pretty picture for a member of the BHD club to try to rotate out everything for the sake of a dartless Tshirt! I don't go there any more.
I guess I was hoping for some philosophy or rule of thumb about why and when you try to take out some of the dart by rotating it out. I'm still at the stage of working to get the fabric to lay nice and smooth over my front, without noticeable pulls or sags. How do you decide when it would be a good idea to move some of that hard-won shaping to a side seam?
(Trying to study at the feet of a sewing Jedi Master, I am.)
A 1 inch FBA is pretty dang small, so certainly I agree that manipulating it the way you recommended wouldn't affect fit or appearance much.
Trying to hide, say, 4 inches worth of dart, on the other hand...whole other ball game, as you say, and no, it's not a pretty picture for a member of the BHD club to try to rotate out everything for the sake of a dartless Tshirt! I don't go there any more.

I guess I was hoping for some philosophy or rule of thumb about why and when you try to take out some of the dart by rotating it out. I'm still at the stage of working to get the fabric to lay nice and smooth over my front, without noticeable pulls or sags. How do you decide when it would be a good idea to move some of that hard-won shaping to a side seam?
(Trying to study at the feet of a sewing Jedi Master, I am.)
Posted on: 11/13/06 7:45 AM ET
Thanks for your help with this!
I know how to rotate a dart so that you end up with a dart in another location, but how do I rotate a dart that would end up in the diagonal seam?
I am not against a dart at the side seaam, but do you think it would change the look of this style? A muslin is a very good idea (even though I am usually too impatient to make a muslin!). This may have to wait until after Christmas so I can give it more attention.
Thanks,
Judy
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I know how to rotate a dart so that you end up with a dart in another location, but how do I rotate a dart that would end up in the diagonal seam?
I am not against a dart at the side seaam, but do you think it would change the look of this style? A muslin is a very good idea (even though I am usually too impatient to make a muslin!). This may have to wait until after Christmas so I can give it more attention.
Thanks,
Judy
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judyp
Posted on: 11/13/06 8:27 AM ET
In reply to JudyP
Quote:
I know how to rotate a dart so that you end up with a dart in another location, but how do I rotate a dart that would end up in the diagonal seam?
I know how to rotate a dart so that you end up with a dart in another location, but how do I rotate a dart that would end up in the diagonal seam?
The seam becomes the slash you rotate to.
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
Posted on: 11/13/06 8:33 AM ET
In reply to Susan in Tucson
Quote:
I guess I was hoping for some philosophy or rule of thumb about why and when you try to take out some of the dart by rotating it out.
I guess I was hoping for some philosophy or rule of thumb about why and when you try to take out some of the dart by rotating it out.
I don't have a "rule," but one thing that comes to mind is that with a BHD, you're going to have more uptake than can be sewn into a smooth dart point in the relatively short distance available from side to bust point. You have to split the uptake somehow, and so rotating some of it out at the sideseam is one way to do that. Other ways I can think of quickly right now are to sew multiple darts, and princess seams with horiz bust darts (Burda does this a lot).
Quote:
(Trying to study at the feet of a sewing Jedi Master, I am.)
(Trying to study at the feet of a sewing Jedi Master, I am.)
I'm more akin to C3PO ... I'm not inventing anything here, just good at remembering and spitting it back out.
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
Posted on: 11/13/06 9:26 AM ET
In reply to Debbie Cook
The seam becomes the slash you rotate to.
Debbie,
Does this mean that you just close the dart formed by the FBA and leave the diagonal seam to fall where it may? Then sew the seam and the excess will be taken in? I'm just trying to get the picture in my head.
Judy
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Debbie,
Does this mean that you just close the dart formed by the FBA and leave the diagonal seam to fall where it may? Then sew the seam and the excess will be taken in? I'm just trying to get the picture in my head.
Judy
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judyp
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