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It's making me crazy (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 12/26/06 12:30 PM ET
I took Pati and Marta's fit seminar this past summer and learned that I need a much larger FBA than I was doing before. I used to make a 1-1/2 inch adj. and just ease the excess in. But I really need to use a smaller pattern size and make a 3 or 3-1/2" adj, so I need to sew the dart. I am having a heck of a time placing and shaping the dart in just the right spot. Marta pin-fits it, then draws the chalk-lines. I can't do that, yet. I just completed a top that took a lot of trial and error: I would baste the darts, then baste the side seams and try it on. Then I would mark where the dart SHOULD be. This went on and on. So even though I've gotten the correct fit adjustments to my pattern, the darts aren't quite in the right place. Any advice?
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Leah
"As I stand before God at the end of my life, I hope that I do not have a single talent
so that I may say I used everything you gave me." Erma Bombeck
"As I stand before God at the end of my life, I hope that I do not have a single talent
so that I may say I used everything you gave me." Erma Bombeck
Posted on: 12/26/06 12:40 PM ET
In reply to Joyfullife
I think you really need someone else to help with this as your dart will never be sitting right while your arms are positioned to mark or pin it.
If you can get a really accurate sloper and successfully transfer its markings to garments that should help a lot, but blouses or jackets or anything with varied amounts of ease are going to need tweaking.
Another thing I find useful is to have more than one full length mirror and really good lighting.
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If you can get a really accurate sloper and successfully transfer its markings to garments that should help a lot, but blouses or jackets or anything with varied amounts of ease are going to need tweaking.
Another thing I find useful is to have more than one full length mirror and really good lighting.
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Buy the best and you only cry once.
Posted on: 12/26/06 4:38 PM ET
In reply to Stitchology
Had you considered changing that one huge dart into two (or maybe even three) darts running in the same direction? I've seen that look on high-end evening wear before, as well as on some of HM the Queen's gowns.
Posted on: 12/29/06 2:43 PM ET
The suggestions above are good. I'll just add an observation for anyone who has struggled mightily with getting darted fronts to fit full busts. The starting location, ending location, and shape of the dart for a good fit can vary widely among women. If we all carried our fullness more or less directly in front of our rib cages (looking down from above), then side darts would work wonderfully well for everyone. And in fact, they do work well for a majority of women.
However, a lot of women carry their bust fullness more towards their undearms, such as myself. So when fitting, I not only have to concern myself with sloping the fabric out and over the front of the bust, but also out and over the side. (One of these days I'll draw some diagrams to illustrate all this.) It's a geometric puzzle gauranteed to make me crazy every time.
I have gone through the rigors of making a "waist" sloper. I made one with front waist darts only, which of course fit everywhere perfectly but had extra fabric in the bust. Then I used that to make one with waist and side darts, and again it fit perfectly except for extra fabric in the bust (but less of it). I was very unhappy with the compromise because I was hoping for nirvana. However, from the darted sloper, I drafted one that rotated the dart to start from the armhole. Beautiful! I have not yet tried the two side dart solution Dr. LJN suggested, but that would probably help since it gives you an additional point of control. Some folks would avoid using two darts because RTW clothes don't use them. It's a matter of preference and how comfortable you are breaking out of the norm.
Good luck with your fitting endeavor. It will definitely be worth the the effort.
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However, a lot of women carry their bust fullness more towards their undearms, such as myself. So when fitting, I not only have to concern myself with sloping the fabric out and over the front of the bust, but also out and over the side. (One of these days I'll draw some diagrams to illustrate all this.) It's a geometric puzzle gauranteed to make me crazy every time.
I have gone through the rigors of making a "waist" sloper. I made one with front waist darts only, which of course fit everywhere perfectly but had extra fabric in the bust. Then I used that to make one with waist and side darts, and again it fit perfectly except for extra fabric in the bust (but less of it). I was very unhappy with the compromise because I was hoping for nirvana. However, from the darted sloper, I drafted one that rotated the dart to start from the armhole. Beautiful! I have not yet tried the two side dart solution Dr. LJN suggested, but that would probably help since it gives you an additional point of control. Some folks would avoid using two darts because RTW clothes don't use them. It's a matter of preference and how comfortable you are breaking out of the norm.
Good luck with your fitting endeavor. It will definitely be worth the the effort.
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Jean
Posted on: 12/29/06 2:49 PM ET
In reply to meanjean
Quote:
Some folks would avoid using two darts because RTW clothes don't use them
Some folks would avoid using two darts because RTW clothes don't use them
*We* know that because we sew and we know which of our own garments we've made.
But ... everyone else is always going to assume that whatever you're wearing was purchased because they just don't think that anyone sews. So it wouldn't be their 1st thought, or even their 20th, and it wouldn't look weird to them. Really! How many non-sewing people do you know who study *darts*???


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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
Posted on: 12/29/06 2:52 PM ET
In reply to Debbie Cook
Quote: Debbie Cook
Really! How many non-sewing people do you know who study *darts*???
Really! How many non-sewing people do you know who study *darts*???

Or even notice them, for that matter.

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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com
If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
Posted on: 12/29/06 3:09 PM ET
You guys are so funny! I'm lovin' my armhole darts SOOOO much. Of course, that's essentially what a armhole princess does, too.
Anyway, here's my latest break from the norm.... You've probably read elsewhere about my sway back woes. Well I cracked the nut. Yes, with darts! (So we're still technically on topic.
) Taking a page of HRM QEII's gowns, I will hereafter use double darts in the backs of my woven tops and dresses. The top I'm currently working on has armhole princess seams in front and double darts in the back. How 'bout that for non-comformity. Oh, but does it fit nicely. 
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Anyway, here's my latest break from the norm.... You've probably read elsewhere about my sway back woes. Well I cracked the nut. Yes, with darts! (So we're still technically on topic.
) Taking a page of HRM QEII's gowns, I will hereafter use double darts in the backs of my woven tops and dresses. The top I'm currently working on has armhole princess seams in front and double darts in the back. How 'bout that for non-comformity. Oh, but does it fit nicely. 
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Jean
Posted on: 12/29/06 3:20 PM ET
In reply to meanjean
Quote: meanjean
However, a lot of women carry their bust fullness more towards their undearms, such as myself. So when fitting, I not only have to concern myself with sloping the fabric out and over the front of the bust, but also out and over the side. (One of these days I'll draw some diagrams to illustrate all this.) It's a geometric puzzle gauranteed to make me crazy every time.
However, a lot of women carry their bust fullness more towards their undearms, such as myself. So when fitting, I not only have to concern myself with sloping the fabric out and over the front of the bust, but also out and over the side. (One of these days I'll draw some diagrams to illustrate all this.) It's a geometric puzzle gauranteed to make me crazy every time.
Great point; I think I have a similar build on this issue. I often have fullness above the bust near the armhole in RTW tailored shirts, and I've fixed that problem in patterns by adding an armhole dart. Next time I'll try rotating the standard dart around and see if that looks better.
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Posted on: 12/29/06 10:22 PM ET
In reply to Joyfullife
I know this doesn't help on this project at all but this fall I took the Pattern Making class by Shannon Gifford that PR offers. It was completely worth the price just for the clarification of darts and dart rotation to a pattern and how to adjust a pattern using these little darlings. I love my darts. . .
Posted on: 12/30/06 3:08 AM ET
When Marta pin-fits, she folds the dart where it would look good, then pins it. One problem I have is that my "girls" aren't the same size, nor do they sit at the same level. So I really need to pin-fit the garment rather than the pattern piece. And so far, when I make the FBA, the apex has been far too low. I wonder if I can successfully shift the dart up in fabric and not have to go back to redo the FBA? I am one of the lucky ones who live in the Portland area, so I think I will pop into one of Marta's ongoing fit review classes, for those who have already taken the seminar. 
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Leah
"As I stand before God at the end of my life, I hope that I do not have a single talent
so that I may say I used everything you gave me." Erma Bombeck
"As I stand before God at the end of my life, I hope that I do not have a single talent
so that I may say I used everything you gave me." Erma Bombeck
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