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Member since 2/27/05
Posts: 147
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Posted on: 2/3/07 10:45 AM ET
Hi, I wonder if anyone has seen these measurements anywhere, as they're not on the size charts. I'm talking about the vertical measurement from the waist to the hip (rise? hip height? waist length?). I need to add length there, but I don't know how much, and I can't flat pattern measure as the hip line is not marked on the pattern.
Thank you!
  
Member since 11/12/05
Posts: 98
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Posted on: 2/3/07 10:52 AM ET
In reply to Mlle Laura
You could mark the hipline yourself. It is at the lowest point of the crotch curve and perpendicular to the grainline. I hope that is correct. If not someone else can jump in with a correction.
  
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 8572
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Posted on: 2/3/07 11:16 AM ET
In reply to patma
Sounds right to me. Because the draft of the back pattern piece can vary so much depending on style, I'd do the marking on the front pattern piece and use that to determine how much to add to (or subtract from) the length.
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“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



  
Member since 3/3/04
Posts: 74
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Posted on: 2/3/07 5:53 PM ET
In reply to Mlle Laura
Burda marks the hipline about 20 cm below the waistline.......I remember reading this in of those pattern alteration workshops they used to have in the BWOF.
  
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 8572
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Posted on: 2/3/07 6:25 PM ET
In reply to kavita
A hipline at 20 cm below the waist would translate to about 8 inches below the waist - quite reasonable for the fullest part of the hip. The crotch depth would be lower than that....I hope. (ouch). To add length to the pants, you'll probably want to decide whether the fullest part of your hip is 8" below the waist; that would help you decide whether to slash your pattern above the 8" mark or below it, if you need more crotch depth and side seam length.
------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



  
Member since 6/23/04
Posts: 4892
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Posted on: 2/3/07 7:00 PM ET
Mueller (the pattern drafting system Burda uses) calculates the "rise" (crotch depth). Many of the measurements are calculated with this drafting system, unless you fall largely outside the norm.

Reading my notes, Mueller determines the rise one of two ways.

1) Outseam length minus inseam length or
2) 1/4 hip circumference plus 1 to 2 cms.

I don't know which one Burda uses. I checked my extensive set of measurements but I only have standard outseam/inseam/rise m'ments for Mueller. I don't have what Burda uses. The second method (1/4 hip circum plus 1-2cms) will give you a pretty good idea though.

HTH

(Edited as my plus signs didn't show up)

-- Edited on 2/3/07 7:02 PM --
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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
  
Member since 3/3/04
Posts: 74
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Posted on: 2/3/07 8:06 PM ET
In reply to Sew4Fun
Belinda,

Do you know of any good book in English that follows the Mueller & Sohn method? I would love to learn this pattern drafting system......I have come across Leena's site.......was just wondering if there was anything else out there. Thanks.

  
Member since 6/23/04
Posts: 4892
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Posted on: 2/4/07 5:49 AM ET
In reply to kavita
>>Do you know of any good book in English that follows the Mueller & Sohn method? I would love to learn this pattern drafting system.

Unfortunately not. You need to learn German or have someone help with the translations. It's a pity as it's such a great method. Even the text books and journals are hard to get hold of. It's one of the best kept secrets.
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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
  
Member since 1/28/03
Posts: 1979
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Posted on: 2/4/07 6:13 PM ET
In reply to Sew4Fun
You can see the text books and magazines from Rundschau Müller & Sohn pattern draft system here
book jackets and coats
Skirts and trousers
Dresses and blouses
The text books are the basic drafts for various examples while the magazines show you how to redraft for another design feature.
It is very rare to find a used book, so the only way is to order the books if you want to learn to draft the best pattern drafting system.A dictionary German English can be very helpful.Sometimes you can find a rundschau damenmode magazine on ebay.de, there are a few up for an auction right now but the auction is for Germany only.
ebay.de auctions rundchau
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http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/
  
Member since 3/3/04
Posts: 74
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Posted on: 2/5/07 12:13 PM ET
Thanks Belinda and els. I guess it is time to brush up on German. I did have a year of German oh, some 20 years ago. LOL.
  
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