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Member since 7/13/05
Posts: 238
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Posted on: 2/27/07 9:13 AM ET
I have been working on a Burda Princess Seam jacket that has two piece sleeves this winter. I started off in a sewing class, but I didn't get it finished by the time it ended.

I had to take a break due to Christmas, and then my 20-year old daughter moved out with her boyfriend that she is going to marry this Fall. Needless to say, this has all come as a huge, major surprise to me. I am a bit frazzled.

I set in one sleeve and I am trying to match up the seams on the front of the sleeve to the princess seam on the front of the jacekt. Also I am trying to match the seam on the back to the sleeve to the princess seam to the back of the jacket. I figured out you do not match up any seam at the side seam. I keep trying to match these seams up but they are always off some when I get the sleeve sewed in despite my pins. Anyone have a fool-proof or better way? I wasted yesterday afternoon trying to perfect this technique. I managed okay on one sleeve, but the right sleeve I just can't get it right.

Thanks for your time I appreciate it. I just don't have any help unless I drive an hour, set up an appt and pay for it.
  
Member since 4/11/02
Posts: 10809
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Posted on: 2/27/07 9:31 AM ET
There should be a notch or mark (probably just a line) on the front armhole part of the sleeve that will correspond to a mark on the armscye, as well as a center top mark on the sleeve to match up to the shoulder seam.
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
  
Member since 10/25/04
Posts: 7464
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Posted on: 2/27/07 9:36 AM ET
In reply to SewSlow
These sleeves can be tricky. I normally match up the respective seams and slide a pin along the stitching lines, thru both thicknesses, in the direction of the sleeve and bodice seam.
With the seam line anchored across the sleeve armhole stitching line, it will normally match up.
I think the thicknesses of the seam and the presser foot move them out of alignment if they aren't anchored together firmly.

HTH's - there is probably a better way to do it though and i would be interested to know too.

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Vonne ºOº Brisbane Australia
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Laughter is timeless, imagination has no age and dreams are forever.
We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing.
  
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 3634
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Posted on: 2/27/07 4:52 PM ET
Sometimes the seams don't actually match up!!! I found this with my size in the Petite Plus princess seamed blazer. I was really annoyed by it too.
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Sydney, Australia
  
Member since 6/27/05
Posts: 274
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Posted on: 2/28/07 12:39 PM ET
Sometimes the seams were not designed to match. This is the case in a lot of RTW jackets. I think as long as you have the sleeves positioned symmetrically and properly eased, it will look fine.
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http://seamslikeparadise.blogspot.com/
  
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 13915
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Posted on: 2/28/07 4:17 PM ET
In reply to SewSlow
Seams don't match. As Debby said, there should be marks at center top of sleeve that matches the shoulder and a mark on the under sleeve that will match a mark on the jacket if there is a side panel, or the side seam of jacket. However, if you have diagonal wrinkles in sleeve cap then you can rotate the sleeve foward or back depending on the wrinkle, so consider the top mark as a starting point and only be concerned about how it looks. Marking the cross grain on the sleeve cap is a good way of seeing if it is hanging correctly.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
  
Member since 7/13/05
Posts: 238
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Posted on: 3/2/07 4:27 PM ET
Thanks for all your time to read my question and give your opinion. I have learned something from everyone of you.
  
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