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Sorry about the newbie questions!! (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Re: Drafting sleeve ease and a gusset question. (posted on 3/11/07 8:02 AM ET)
I'm drafting a peacoat pattern with set in sleeves for woven fabric and making it with stretch fabric (sweatshirt material) and I was wondering if 3" ease in the sleeve is enough or too much? If too much, how do I draft to take away the excess?? Since it's going to be made from stretch fabric, am I correct to go down one size?
Sorry if I'm not clear, I also want add an oval fabric gusset patch on the shoulder/sleeve head. How do I draft that into the pattern?
Thanks for hearing me out!!
-- Edited on 3/11/07 8:03 AM --
Sorry if I'm not clear, I also want add an oval fabric gusset patch on the shoulder/sleeve head. How do I draft that into the pattern?
Thanks for hearing me out!!
-- Edited on 3/11/07 8:03 AM --
Posted on: 3/11/07 9:08 AM ET
Since sweatshirt fabric isn't all that stretchy, I would treat it the same as you would a woven, for a jacket. The sleeve ease of 3" is exactly the right amount on a jacket.
I'm not sure that I understand the oval gusset patch you want, but...
One way to make this happen, would be to put the jacket together as originally drafted, then make the patch to lay over that area, turning under the raw edges. Once you get the oval so it looks right to you, you can topstitch it in place. Then you could cut out the fabric behind it and finish the SAs.
HTH :)
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I'm not sure that I understand the oval gusset patch you want, but...
One way to make this happen, would be to put the jacket together as originally drafted, then make the patch to lay over that area, turning under the raw edges. Once you get the oval so it looks right to you, you can topstitch it in place. Then you could cut out the fabric behind it and finish the SAs.
HTH :)
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Ardis
the lefthanded daughter of a lefthanded mother
the lefthanded daughter of a lefthanded mother
Posted on: 3/11/07 10:22 AM ET
In reply to SewVeryTall
SewVeryTall, I want the oval patch stitched in two pieces so that when you join the sleeve to the armhole, an oval shaped patch/gusset is formed?
I guess, the closest description I can get is like the outline of shoulder pad topstitched. I think some style of biker/leather jackets have this.
Phew, I'm glad I got the ease right.
I guess, the closest description I can get is like the outline of shoulder pad topstitched. I think some style of biker/leather jackets have this.
Phew, I'm glad I got the ease right.
Posted on: 3/11/07 11:04 AM ET
Hmmm...ok...
Since the sleeve cap is eased into the armhole, you'll need to make a muslin of that area, so you'll know how wide the oval inset on the top of the sleeve should be. You really don't want to push the ease down lower, or it'll look puffy and wrong below the oval [most of the ease needs to be at the top of the sleeve].
Make the muslin as the pattern is originally, using a long basting stitch...it'll give you the opportunity to mark the oval directly on it, till you're happy with the way it looks. Then when you take the muslin apart, you can use those lines to draft your 2 half oval pattern pieces. Don't forget to add SAs.
The shoulder half of the oval will need to be sewn to the front and back pattern pieces, and the shoulder seam sewn, as a Y seam [3 seams meeting].
Tricky to draft, but it's do-able.
-- Edited on 3/11/07 11:16 AM --
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Since the sleeve cap is eased into the armhole, you'll need to make a muslin of that area, so you'll know how wide the oval inset on the top of the sleeve should be. You really don't want to push the ease down lower, or it'll look puffy and wrong below the oval [most of the ease needs to be at the top of the sleeve].
Make the muslin as the pattern is originally, using a long basting stitch...it'll give you the opportunity to mark the oval directly on it, till you're happy with the way it looks. Then when you take the muslin apart, you can use those lines to draft your 2 half oval pattern pieces. Don't forget to add SAs.
The shoulder half of the oval will need to be sewn to the front and back pattern pieces, and the shoulder seam sewn, as a Y seam [3 seams meeting].
Tricky to draft, but it's do-able.
-- Edited on 3/11/07 11:16 AM --
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Ardis
the lefthanded daughter of a lefthanded mother
the lefthanded daughter of a lefthanded mother
Posted on: 3/11/07 8:47 PM ET
Thank you SewVeryTall, you have been very helpful!! I will try it out today.
Posted on: 3/21/07 12:50 PM ET
I'm back with another question...
The pattern doesn't have any sleeve notches. Should I start easing 5" from each end?
The pattern doesn't have any sleeve notches. Should I start easing 5" from each end?
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