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Standard lengths? (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 3/18/07 4:26 PM ET
Is there a "standard" for armhole lengths for woven garments with set in sleeves? I understand the higher the armhole, the more comfortable, but what's considered the max? Directly under the arm? 1" under the arm?
What's the number for loose fitting garments with set in sleeves (flat caps)? Is it 2".............3" below the underarm? I've never seen this referenced in books. There must be some kind of a standard.
I'm not looking for someone to tell me the loose fit number is whatever's comfortable, because you really don't know until the garment's made up.
I'd imagine those numbers would be a bit different for knits, but I'm mainly interested in woven fabrics.
Edited for clarity.
-- Edited on 3/18/07 4:40 PM --
Posted on: 3/18/07 5:26 PM ET
For the "classic" set-in sleeve that sits on your shoulder point, the distance the armhole lies below the armpit is about 1", but for dropped shoulder, slightly dropped shoulder, etc., I don't know of any standard measurement. I'm afraid it depends on the style of the garment and what feels comfortable and looks flattering, which is what you didn't want to hear.
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If I sewed any slower, I wouldn't be sewing at all.
Posted on: 3/18/07 6:17 PM ET
In reply to OP Gal
I didn't hear that!!!


OK...........some more clarity.............a plain shirt with no yoke and no darts anywhere, would be the style. Sometimes some of the shirt shoulders aren't dropped or extended, but they're still considered loose fitting shirts. I would think the length of the armhole would be higher for the latter shirt. I'm thinking a 2" drop would be the max, but I don't really know.
Posted on: 3/18/07 6:43 PM ET
In reply to ccris
Obviously, I don't know, either. I looked in several reference books I have, including one on pattern drafting, but couldn't find anything other than the classic high set in sleeve. The only thing I can think of is to pull out a similar shirt pattern, measure the armhole depth and go from there. Or, I guess you could snoop shop, try on a shirt similar to the one you want to make and measure the armhole drop. 
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If I sewed any slower, I wouldn't be sewing at all.
Posted on: 3/18/07 6:55 PM ET
In reply to OP Gal
OK, now I feel stupid. Tell me how measuring the shirt pattern armhole depth is going to tell me where it should be on either the mannequin it was drafted for or on me? I'm totally
and
. 

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