PatternReview.com online sewing community
Online Sewing Class: More Knits
Register Today!
Join our community of 579,261 sewists!
SIGNUP Membership is free and includes 1 free lesson
Login |
Join our community of 579,261 sewists!
Signup | Login
To participate in the PatternReview.com forums please Login or Join PatternReview
Member since 6/27/03
Posts: 3742
Send Message
Posted on: 5/28/07 7:59 AM ET
I hear reference to this many times here on PR. How does one know if it is needed?
  
Member since 9/14/05
Posts: 2037
Body Type:
Send Message
Re: Forward Shoulder adjustment (posted on 5/28/07 9:31 AM ET)
If the shoulder seam on your shirts/jackets is normally behind your actual shoulder, they you need that adjustment. Sometimes the sleeve feels twisted.
It's basically adding to the back shoulder, and taking away from the front shoulder so that the shoulder seam lies at the top of your shoulder (where it should).
  
Member since 3/18/04
Posts: 2060
Body Type:
Send Message
Posted on: 5/28/07 9:51 AM ET
There is excellent reference to this adjustment in the Fit for Real People book by Pati Palmer. Also if you buy a fitting shell pattern, they have the instructions in there to do it. I used the Butterick one (got it at a .99 sale at Hancock's). The fitting shell/sloper was very helpful for me to learn what alterations I needed to consistently make and I highly recommend everyone make one. It does take time, but it helps you realize exactly what alterations you always will need to make. HTH's!
------
"The way I see it, if you want the rainbow, you gotta put up with the rain." ~Dolly Parton
  
Member since 3/19/04
Posts: 2557
Send Message
Posted on: 5/28/07 10:17 AM ET
Not only is the shoulder seam moved forward, but the sleeve is rotated forward to correspond to the new shoulder line. If your sleeve is sewn in flat you'll have to alter it, too. IMO, this is the most important part of the forward shoulder adjustment. After all, who cares if your shoulder seam isn't quite right? But getting drag lines out of the sleeves is another matter.
  
Member since 3/18/04
Posts: 2060
Body Type:
Send Message
Posted on: 5/28/07 12:02 PM ET
In reply to Irene Q
Yes, very true! Before I learned to make a forward shoulder adjustment, I had trouble in tops made of woven fabrics, I couldn't move my arms around comforable. And with the adjustment, everything fits & feels wonderful.
------
"The way I see it, if you want the rainbow, you gotta put up with the rain." ~Dolly Parton
  
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7614
Body Type:
Send Message
Re: Forward Shoulder adjustment (posted on 5/28/07 8:05 PM ET)
I knew I needed this adjustment because all my shirts tried to strangle me.
------
Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
  
Member since 3/19/04
Posts: 2557
Send Message
Posted on: 5/31/07 5:28 PM ET
One thing I do to see how much I need this alteration, is to stand very straight with my shoulders pushed way back. If the sleeve fit looks much better and the drag lines go away, then I know that's what's causing the problem.
  
Member since 5/19/03
Posts: 1445
Body Type:
Send Message
Posted on: 5/31/07 6:25 PM ET
I used to do a forward shoulder adjustment on the bodice, but now I just adjust the sleeve. I stopped because my shoulders are not so far forward that it effects the fit of the shirt. If, however, the shoulder seam is too far back, it will actually slip off your shoulder and, as Sherril said, end up choking you. For the sleeve, what I find is that I can see the ball of my shoulder pushing against the top of sleeve cap in front, and bagginess in the back. I also had a drag line from the shoulder seam to the protuding part in front. What I do is just redraw the sleeve cap so that there is more of a curve in front, and less of a curve in back. I learned this from my patternmaking teacher, but I think it may also be in Betzina's "Fast Fit" and "Fitting and Pattern Alteration" by Judith Rasband.
------
"Cultivate your curves. They may be dangerous, but they won't be avoided."
-Mae West
"I like big butts and I cannot lie."
-Sir Mix-a-lot
  
Member since 5/10/05
Posts: 2641
Send Message
Posted on: 6/4/07 9:53 PM ET
In reply to MelissaB in WA
Melissa, do you have a pattern number for that sloper pattern? I didn't htink you could get the slopers for .99?
------
http://theramblingsoftcm.blogspot.com/
Numbers for 2013:
Yards in stash: 606.25
Yards in: 22.75
Yards out: 10.50

Numbers for 2012:
594.00 yards in stash
4 yards in
10.25 yards out

Numbers for 2011:
601.25 yards in stash (I'm sure this number is off by a few yards)
Yards in: 137.50 (Seriously? I'm over 100, and it's only JULY? Ugh!)
Yards out: 88.75
  
* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it.
Selected Reviews, Classes & Patterns
Metro Textiles
NYC Fabric Store
Specials!
Discovery Fabrics
High Performance Fabrics
Specials!
Fancy Frocks Fabrics
Fine Designer Fabrics