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Posted on: 7/6/07 6:41 PM ET
Time to come out of lurkdom and ask for help!!!
I really want to sew but everytime I get ready to cut out and measure, drape patterns on my body double, etc. I get so FRUSTRATED!!
Here's a mental picture for you--I'm a DD cup, with low slung girls, a short waist, tall, curvy. If I add needed length in the chest to keep armholes from binding and to lower the bust dart it makes my waist length too long. If I maintain the waist length, my bust dart is to high and there isn't enough length in the upper chest!
I'm about 6 ft. tall and very curvy. My inseam is about 33-34". My crotch length is long but the depth is short. 31" x 12"
I'm in need of major HELP!
Thanks so much for any inspiration. In the meantime, maybe I'll just work on quilts!
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I really want to sew but everytime I get ready to cut out and measure, drape patterns on my body double, etc. I get so FRUSTRATED!!
Here's a mental picture for you--I'm a DD cup, with low slung girls, a short waist, tall, curvy. If I add needed length in the chest to keep armholes from binding and to lower the bust dart it makes my waist length too long. If I maintain the waist length, my bust dart is to high and there isn't enough length in the upper chest!
I'm about 6 ft. tall and very curvy. My inseam is about 33-34". My crotch length is long but the depth is short. 31" x 12"
I'm in need of major HELP!
Thanks so much for any inspiration. In the meantime, maybe I'll just work on quilts!
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Tall person seeking knowledge for custom clothing!
Posted on: 7/6/07 8:00 PM ET
In reply to sewingbuddcker
First of all, get hold of a copy of Fit For Real People. It is invaluable. Now, after you add length in the chest above the bust apex, fold out at least an equal amount below the armhole to bring the waistline to the right level. The pants issue, I can't help you on much, though. Maybe someone with more pants experience can offer something.
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Julie
Logistics and Operations
The Wilson Zoo
My machines: Pfaff 6120, 130 & 296 sewing machines, Pfaff 4752 Serger, Janome 1000CP Coverstitch
That's not a stash. I'm just waiting for my inmature clothing to grow up.
Logistics and Operations
The Wilson Zoo
My machines: Pfaff 6120, 130 & 296 sewing machines, Pfaff 4752 Serger, Janome 1000CP Coverstitch
That's not a stash. I'm just waiting for my inmature clothing to grow up.
Posted on: 7/6/07 11:38 PM ET
I am with you sister! I am 5'9", busty and curvy and low chested/longchested too and am feeling the same pain as I can't seam to add enough to bust withought making the shoulder and arm area too volumous. All I do is sew boxer shorts, and such for son's since all sewing for myself goes haywire.
Posted on: 7/6/07 11:40 PM ET
You must be looking in MY mirror!
Well, almost...I'm a tall, short-waisted, 34" inseam, DD, as well. But I have to make the chest/shoulders/Back narrower and shorter, do a FBA AND lengthen the waist in front... If you Dressform is padded out to be pretty close to your shape, do whatever you have to do to make the thing hang right from the shoulders, is my best advice--longer and wider than the pattern where you need it, tucked up and narrower where you don't. Play with muslin or tissue tracings if you don't want to cut your pattern.
I agree with WilsonZooKeeper's suggestion to find a copy of FFRP ASAP. And, while you are at it, find a copy of Pants for Real People. (Pati Palmer and Marta Alto authors.)
OR, next time McCall's Patterns are on sale, pick up one of the Palmer-Pletsch Perfect Fit," "Perfect Pants," or "Perfect Trouser" patterns. The instruction sheet is like a Cliff Notes version of the Pants for Real People book and takes you through the various alterations in an orderly, logical fashion in a pretty non-overwhelming way. A couple of them have a pant-fitting shell in the pattern as well--an invaluable tool to get over your pants-fitting fears.
Palmer Pletsch also has a dress-fitting sloper/fitting shell, but you have to order it, usually and can't get it on sale. I'm not sure how their shell/sloper instructions differ from the standard Butterick shell that you can get for a $1.00 on sale days--but I found doing both a sloper/fitting shell AND a Pant-fitting shell both to be worthwhile exercises to get over feeling entirely mystified about what I could or could not do to make a pattern fit...
Good luck!
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Well, almost...I'm a tall, short-waisted, 34" inseam, DD, as well. But I have to make the chest/shoulders/Back narrower and shorter, do a FBA AND lengthen the waist in front... If you Dressform is padded out to be pretty close to your shape, do whatever you have to do to make the thing hang right from the shoulders, is my best advice--longer and wider than the pattern where you need it, tucked up and narrower where you don't. Play with muslin or tissue tracings if you don't want to cut your pattern.
I agree with WilsonZooKeeper's suggestion to find a copy of FFRP ASAP. And, while you are at it, find a copy of Pants for Real People. (Pati Palmer and Marta Alto authors.)
OR, next time McCall's Patterns are on sale, pick up one of the Palmer-Pletsch Perfect Fit," "Perfect Pants," or "Perfect Trouser" patterns. The instruction sheet is like a Cliff Notes version of the Pants for Real People book and takes you through the various alterations in an orderly, logical fashion in a pretty non-overwhelming way. A couple of them have a pant-fitting shell in the pattern as well--an invaluable tool to get over your pants-fitting fears.
Palmer Pletsch also has a dress-fitting sloper/fitting shell, but you have to order it, usually and can't get it on sale. I'm not sure how their shell/sloper instructions differ from the standard Butterick shell that you can get for a $1.00 on sale days--but I found doing both a sloper/fitting shell AND a Pant-fitting shell both to be worthwhile exercises to get over feeling entirely mystified about what I could or could not do to make a pattern fit...
Good luck!
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I am going for a level of perfection that is only mine... Most of the pleasure is in getting that last little piece perfect...Inspiration is for amateurs. The rest of us just keep showing up and doing the work.
Chuck Close, painter, printmaker, photographer
Hope has two lovely daughters: Anger and Courage
St. Augustine
Chuck Close, painter, printmaker, photographer
Hope has two lovely daughters: Anger and Courage
St. Augustine
Posted on: 7/7/07 10:25 PM ET
In reply to sewingbuddcker
Thanks for the support. Nice to know I have sisters with equally strange shapes!
I've been thinking on this problem. Does it make sense to lengthen above the dart to lower it and lengthen the armscye and shorten below the dart to bring the waistline up? Seems counterproductive but like it might move things in the right direction. When the front is lengthened, do you blend to the side seams or shorten the whole front to match the side seams of the back. I feel like I must be getting Alzheimer's because I just want to pound my head to figure this out!!!
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I've been thinking on this problem. Does it make sense to lengthen above the dart to lower it and lengthen the armscye and shorten below the dart to bring the waistline up? Seems counterproductive but like it might move things in the right direction. When the front is lengthened, do you blend to the side seams or shorten the whole front to match the side seams of the back. I feel like I must be getting Alzheimer's because I just want to pound my head to figure this out!!!
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Tall person seeking knowledge for custom clothing!
Posted on: 7/8/07 3:16 PM ET
In reply to sewingbuddcker
Quote: sewingbuddcker
When the front is lengthened, do you blend to the side seams or shorten the whole front to match the side seams of the back.
When the front is lengthened, do you blend to the side seams or shorten the whole front to match the side seams of the back.
I blend to the side seams, as I need the additional length in the center of the bodice to "go over" my larger/lower bust.
I follow the same process you listed: lengthening above the dart and shortening, as needed, below the dart.
--Lily
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Lily
Posted on: 7/8/07 3:58 PM ET
I also have a similar figure, so I'm glad to read everyone's advice. Definitely try lengthening in the armscye and shortening below the bust, as it sounds like that'll match your figure better. Starting with a cup-sized bodice could help too - I believe the largest is usually D, but that'll save you from having to make a big FBA.
I'm still a pants-fitting newbie, so no insights there, but I have had great luck w/ Burda patterns - they seem to work well with us taller folks & a lot of people get good results w/ their crotch curve.
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I'm still a pants-fitting newbie, so no insights there, but I have had great luck w/ Burda patterns - they seem to work well with us taller folks & a lot of people get good results w/ their crotch curve.
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Do you sew from KnipMode? Join us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/knipmode_english/
Posted on: 7/8/07 8:13 PM ET
In reply to sewingbuddcker
Yes, it makes sense. I usually have to take a tuck across the upper chest to shorten the armscyes, then add an inch or so below the armscyes BEFORE I do the FBA--THEN I usually also have to add to the length in the front midriff, too. And, that's just the front--My back is even worse--I have to make everything shorter and narrower in my upper back and shoulders. The trick is to add the length and width where YOU need it rather than where the pattern puts it based on the "perfect" measurements the pattern companies apply to a 5'5" or 5'6" woman's frame. (ridiculous, I say...if that 5'5" woman had the wide shoulders and upper back that are drafted to a size 20 or larger pattern, she would be very oddly --and unattractively -shaped indeed...."perfect" measurements my ***!)
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I am going for a level of perfection that is only mine... Most of the pleasure is in getting that last little piece perfect...Inspiration is for amateurs. The rest of us just keep showing up and doing the work.
Chuck Close, painter, printmaker, photographer
Hope has two lovely daughters: Anger and Courage
St. Augustine
Chuck Close, painter, printmaker, photographer
Hope has two lovely daughters: Anger and Courage
St. Augustine
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