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Member since 9/3/06
Posts: 8552
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Posted on: 11/14/07 4:49 PM ET
I am trying to make a muslin off V8161 for my version of a Chanel jacket. I am doing view C without the mandarin collarand the attached facings. I like the 2 long vertical darts and the fitted style. I don't have to do a high bust adjustment on the Vogue patterns I have recently done, so felt I could whip out the muslin and spend today on the fun stuff. This vogue shows the apex 2" lower than mine and the CF pulled to the side below the bustline. I took the bust adjustment and graded up a pattern size at the waist on my next attempt . The fronts were a little better, but the side seams pulled toward the back by about 4". Also the darts had to be changed and didn't look as well..the bottom dart actually ended 1/4" below the apex, so I went back to the original and it does look better without the bust and dart adjustment. I kept the extra width at the waistlinw, but the side seams still pull to the back by about 2 inches and the CF is still off starting at just above the waist. I let out the back seam even though it does seem to lie along my CB correctly.
That did not seem to make a difference. The only other adjustments I need to make is on the armholes. The pattern shows shoulder pads and the armholes are to tight by about !/4 ". Would this make any difference in my seams and front? Also< I am using a very lightweight fabric (like medium wt interfcing) for the muslin. Would that have an affect on my problem?
Please forgive this rather long and unorganized post..this is driving me nuts..I'm on my 3rd set of fronts now and see more in my future. I would appreciate greatly any input or ideas.
thanx, jan


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2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

  
Member since 3/2/04
Posts: 2073
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Posted on: 11/17/07 10:24 AM ET
I hate to see your post go unanswered. It's a little unclear as to what your problem is, except that your jacket isn't fitting in several places.

If I were you, I would take measurements from your body, and compare them to the patterns. Don't go by what the envelope says, measure the pattern pieces [don't forget that you need a little ease, so the pattern should be bigger]. The fact that your armholes are tight, and the side seams are pulling, makes me think you're not using the right size to start with. Use the size that fits you best in the shoulders, then alter the rest to fit you.

Feel free to ask more questions. Sometimes restating the problems can make things clearer.

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Ardis

the lefthanded daughter of a lefthanded mother
  
Member since 3/19/04
Posts: 2557
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Posted on: 11/17/07 7:12 PM ET
It sounds like you need to make it larger in the hips?? That would certainly cause the side seams to pull towards the back, and the fronts not to meet in the center.

In your muslin, are you sewing in the sleeves? The armhole will actually be smaller without the sleeves sewn in. But if they're really tight you probably want to start with a larger size. You want to wear this over a shirt and you'll be adding a lining, so the jacket should be a little loose. If you can, you'd be better off making the muslin in a heavier fabric, and make sure to try on the muslin over a shirt.
  
Member since 9/3/06
Posts: 8552
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Posted on: 11/21/07 11:15 AM ET
Thank you to you both for your suggestions...I did adjust the waist and hips and lowered the underarm somewhat. I was trying my muslin on over a thin sweater and when I took off the mulslin, I noticed that my shoulders are now a different slope and width. I had neck surgery about a year ago and now it seems that my shoulder slope has changed & the width on one side has incresed by 3/4". I adjusted the slope and width on that side and the side seams are now aligned. This is the first really fitted project I have done in a while, so perhaps thats why I haven't noticed the change.
thanx again,
jan
------
2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

  
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