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How to make them accurately (Moderated by Deepika)
Posted on: 4/2/08 2:55 AM ET
After reading "Just Pockets" and failing several times to make a decent inset pocket I came up with my own method that works without a tongue holding nightmare.
I used the computer program "Form Tool" but one can also
use a pen or pencil and a ruler.
Step 1: Draw the stitching lines on the not glued side of a
piece of light fusible interfacing. Then put placement marks showinhg where the various pieces are to be pinned and basted.
Step 2: Fuse the Interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric where the inset pocket is to be. (The interfacing, as a side benefit, helps to prevent fraying when the opening is cut.)
Step 3: Baste the placement marks with contrasting thread through to the rilght side. This is necessary as the pieces of the inset pocket must be placed PRECISELY on the riglht side of the cloth.
Step 4: Precisely pin and baste the inset pocket front pieces in the following order:
1. Bottom Lip piece (if any). The folded edge towards BOTTOM of garment.
2. Pocket front piece. This must be placed over any lip upside down. That means the bottom of the pocket towards the TOP of the garment and the inside of the pocket face down. The top seam allowance of the pocket front to extend past the stitching line.
Step 5: With wrong side up stitch exactly on the previously drawn BOTTOM stitching line. Pin or baste the front pieces out of the way in preparation for the pocket back pieces.
Step 6: On the right side precisely pin and baste the Pocket back pieces to the placement marks in the following order:
1. Top Lip (if any). The folded edge towards TOP of garment.
2. Pocket back piece upside down over any lip. Upside down means the bottom of the pocket towards top of garment with the inside of the pocket face down. The top seam allowance of the pocket back to extend past the stitching line.
Step 7: Stitch precisely from the wrong side along the previously drawn UPPER stitching line. Be careful not to stitch anything else underneath as there is by this time several things to avoid.
Step 8: Remove basting and marking stitches. Cut TO but not THROUGH the ends of the two stiitching lines in the following pattern. The two rows of S's represent the stitching lines and the C's represent the cutting lines: (Underlines are inserted to keep the pattern in place.
__SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
____C______________________________________C
_______C_________________________________C
__________C____________________________C
_____________CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC
__________C____________________________C
_______C__________________________________C
____C_______________________________________C
__SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
Step 9: Turn all pieces to the inside of the garment including the triangular pieces left at the two ends of the opening. PRESS (using steam or water mistimg) making sure all tails and triangles are pulled out! Pressing is very important as it doesn't want to lay flat at this point.
Step 10: With the garment piece right side up fold the garment piece back showing one side of the pocket. Pull gently the tails of any lip pieces out and the triangular piece out over the tails and the side of the front and back pieces. Stitch the triangular piece down stitching very close to the ends of the previous stitching lines to secure the side of the pocket opening. Then repeat the procedure on the other side of the pocket.
Step 11: Stitch the edges of the pocket trimming any uneven edges and finish with the serger.
Note: The sizing and desigln of the pocket is not addressed here. But the pocket back piece must be longer than the front piece by the distance between the two stitching lines on the interfacing. Both front and back pieces must be wider than the stitching lines by two times a comfortable seam allowance. To avoid the pocket material showing when the garmet is finished you may want to sew a 2 to 4 inch strip of fashion fabric over the inside end of the pocket piece that is placed face down over the stitching line on the interfacing.
E-mail me if you have any questions.
-- Edited on 4/2/08 3:08 AM --
------
I used the computer program "Form Tool" but one can also
use a pen or pencil and a ruler.
Step 1: Draw the stitching lines on the not glued side of a
piece of light fusible interfacing. Then put placement marks showinhg where the various pieces are to be pinned and basted.
Step 2: Fuse the Interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric where the inset pocket is to be. (The interfacing, as a side benefit, helps to prevent fraying when the opening is cut.)
Step 3: Baste the placement marks with contrasting thread through to the rilght side. This is necessary as the pieces of the inset pocket must be placed PRECISELY on the riglht side of the cloth.
Step 4: Precisely pin and baste the inset pocket front pieces in the following order:
1. Bottom Lip piece (if any). The folded edge towards BOTTOM of garment.
2. Pocket front piece. This must be placed over any lip upside down. That means the bottom of the pocket towards the TOP of the garment and the inside of the pocket face down. The top seam allowance of the pocket front to extend past the stitching line.
Step 5: With wrong side up stitch exactly on the previously drawn BOTTOM stitching line. Pin or baste the front pieces out of the way in preparation for the pocket back pieces.
Step 6: On the right side precisely pin and baste the Pocket back pieces to the placement marks in the following order:
1. Top Lip (if any). The folded edge towards TOP of garment.
2. Pocket back piece upside down over any lip. Upside down means the bottom of the pocket towards top of garment with the inside of the pocket face down. The top seam allowance of the pocket back to extend past the stitching line.
Step 7: Stitch precisely from the wrong side along the previously drawn UPPER stitching line. Be careful not to stitch anything else underneath as there is by this time several things to avoid.
Step 8: Remove basting and marking stitches. Cut TO but not THROUGH the ends of the two stiitching lines in the following pattern. The two rows of S's represent the stitching lines and the C's represent the cutting lines: (Underlines are inserted to keep the pattern in place.
__SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
____C______________________________________C
_______C_________________________________C
__________C____________________________C
_____________CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC
__________C____________________________C
_______C__________________________________C
____C_______________________________________C
__SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
Step 9: Turn all pieces to the inside of the garment including the triangular pieces left at the two ends of the opening. PRESS (using steam or water mistimg) making sure all tails and triangles are pulled out! Pressing is very important as it doesn't want to lay flat at this point.
Step 10: With the garment piece right side up fold the garment piece back showing one side of the pocket. Pull gently the tails of any lip pieces out and the triangular piece out over the tails and the side of the front and back pieces. Stitch the triangular piece down stitching very close to the ends of the previous stitching lines to secure the side of the pocket opening. Then repeat the procedure on the other side of the pocket.
Step 11: Stitch the edges of the pocket trimming any uneven edges and finish with the serger.
Note: The sizing and desigln of the pocket is not addressed here. But the pocket back piece must be longer than the front piece by the distance between the two stitching lines on the interfacing. Both front and back pieces must be wider than the stitching lines by two times a comfortable seam allowance. To avoid the pocket material showing when the garmet is finished you may want to sew a 2 to 4 inch strip of fashion fabric over the inside end of the pocket piece that is placed face down over the stitching line on the interfacing.
E-mail me if you have any questions.
-- Edited on 4/2/08 3:08 AM --
------
Hobby Tailor
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