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Member since 2/7/02
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Posted on: 4/12/08 5:27 PM ET
I'm making the McCall Trench Coat pattern and I'm working out the fit issues on the muslin. I don't have any problems in the bust area this time (shockingly) and the sleeves were pulling but MaryBeth totally showed me how to fix that, so now the only problem left is the back fit. At first, I had a weird wrinkle so I sliced the piece and added in 1/4" which felt better but looks really awful. I can't figure out what I did wrong or what I need to do.
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Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Edited to correct image issues
-- Edited on 4/12/08 8:50 PM --
  
Member since 12/28/04
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Posted on: 4/12/08 5:33 PM ET
In reply to Melody
Your shoulders are quite sloping. Do this adjustment and see if it helps. Don't forget to take out an equal amount from the outside edge of collar. If you have SB's book she has a good method. the other thing is, are you planning to use shoulder pads? If so you need to fit with them in.
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Member since 4/11/02
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Posted on: 4/12/08 6:44 PM ET
I think you also have a high round back. Instead of adding the fabric where you did, you need to slash/spread higher up.

Also, can you please add a hard return after each of your photos so the page isn't so wide. Thanks!
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
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Posted on: 4/12/08 8:52 PM ET
Thanks Nancy and Debbie, I think I'm going to go back in and do some alterations on the paper pattern and do a second muslin with the suggestions the two of you have made. I'm determined to win the fight with this pattern.
  
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Posted on: 4/13/08 8:03 AM ET
In reply to Debbie Cook
Ok, Debbie, what's a hard return?
What are you seeing that I didn't for the high rounded back?
-- Edited on 4/13/08 8:04 AM --
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Member since 1/12/04
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Posted on: 4/13/08 10:03 AM ET
The drag lines from the neckline to the side waist say that she has an upper rounded back. Threads magazine has a diagram for this alteration and it works beautifully.

'Threads alteration

I find the term dowager's hump more than a little offensive.
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Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 4/13/08 11:25 AM ET
Melody, I have this same problem. I cut and spread about 1-2 inches below the neckline and then do a swayback alteration to remove the added length at the waist. This will require a center back seam. I also do a sloping shoulder alteration but I don't lower it at the underarm, I need the smaller armscye. Then shorten the sleeve cap so it fits into the hole.
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If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
  
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Posted on: 4/13/08 11:35 AM ET
Lynelle and I were working on this together yesterday and it was giving us fits. I knew if I asked the question here, I'd get a plethora of good solutions. I've done the back measurements and for sure I need extra back length. This has also made me aware of the reason some of my other garments are a little bit "off". I've got the pattern spread out on the big table this morning with plenty of paper, a ruler and tape and ready to take on the fitting challenge. See, this is why I like making skirts. It's also making me think I really need to start hitting the gym.

Marilyn, I hate that "dowagers hump" term as well. I think we should call it something else like "venus back adjustment" or whatever, as long as it's a more attractive term.
  
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Posted on: 4/13/08 11:59 AM ET
In reply to Nancy K
Quote: Nancy K
Ok, Debbie, what's a hard return?

Um ... in typewriter parlance, a hard carriage return. Melody had all of her photos one right after the other with no return between them so they all showed up on the same "line" and made the screen really wide.

Quote: Nancy K
?What are you seeing that I didn't for the high rounded back?


I don't know how to explain it, really ... I could just tell by the way the fabric draped that it was going over a curve.
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
  
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Posted on: 4/13/08 12:05 PM ET
In reply to Melody
Quote: Melody
Marilyn, I hate that "dowagers hump" term as well. I think we should call it something else like "venus back adjustment" or whatever, as long as it's a more attractive term.

Yeah, I think the dowager's hump term is ridiculous. Especially since a dowager is an old term for a rich widow and really has nothing to do with pattern fitting (even though I do understand how the description originated, I suppose). High, round back is at least descriptive of the body type in the same way as full bust, or narrow hips, or square shoulders.
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
  
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