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Member since 5/14/08
Posts: 2
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Posted on: 5/14/08 11:04 AM ET
I am making a bikini bottom and wondering about stretching the elastic so the finished garment fits snug against the persons backside bottom.
This is for a string bikini so the leg opening pattern is flat and not sewn in a circle.
Process:
- I have my pattern cut out
- I place elastic onto the backside of the outer edge
- Backside facing up with elastic pinned to the fabrics edge, I then serge the edge
- Serger is on a "gathering" setting

At this point do I lightly pull the elastic and fabric?..or just elastic?- or at all?

- I then go to my two needle cover stitch industrial. I fold the serged edge with elastic under, and finish the edge .

Should I pull the leg opening edge again when I get to the backside edge?
Thank you.
  
Member since 2/27/07
Posts: 506
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Posted on: 5/14/08 2:25 PM ET
I haven't actually made a string bikini panty (where the elastic doesn't go all the way around the leg opening), but I can tell you this much:

You'll get the best fit, i.e., "cupping" of your bottom by the backside of the suit) if you lay the elastic on almost flat without any stretching on the front side, and then pull the elastic fairly taut from the crotch seam around your backside area to the top of the hipbone.

You want to be sure that you're only stretching the elastic, NOT the fabric. You want the fabric to almost be gathered on to the elastic. I don't bother adjusting the serger to a "gathering" setting via the differential feed. I use wooly nylon on the loopers, and pull the elastic to adjust it to the fabric edge.

I get the best, most consistent fit by cutting two identical lengths of elastic, pinning the elastic in place, and then basting it on to the leg opening with a long, narrow zig zag stitch. That way I can have my client try on the leotard/bathingsuit/skating dress to see if the leg opening is tight enough. If not, it's a simple matter to rip off the elastic, shorten it, and re-baste. Once I've got the length right, I cut the other side to match, baste it, and then use my serger to sew it in place. A 3-thread overlock is ideal; a 4-thread doesn't stretch enough and actually tends to pull the elastic out of shape.

When you fold the edge to the inside, don't stretch the fabric/elastic more than necessary to get the stitching to lie flat. The more you stretch out the fabric while you stitch, the more it will bag out instead of snapping back sharply.

Then after everything is sewn, steam the elastic back into shape. I put the garment on my ironing board, cover it will a cotton flannel pressing cloth, and hold my steam iron above it while it gets a good steam bath (the lycra fabric and wooly nylon will both scorch or melt if you touch the iron to them directly).

Hope this makes sense!
  
Member since 4/8/08
Posts: 10077
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Posted on: 5/15/08 0:50 AM ET
I agree with Louisa P -- stretch the elastic in the back to cup the buttocks and do one to one in the front leg opening to ensure the front leg opening lays flat against the body. The length of the elastic you cut may have to be adjusted depending on how closely the strings pull the front and back of the bikini bottoms together. I use a 3/8" elastic for my leg openings -- attach to wrong side of leg opening with serger and then turn inside and zigzag topstitch. Sometimes I use a twin needle but most often a zigzag.


------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)

2025 Stash Busting:
0 yds sewn (as of 01/01/25)
0 yds purchased/received (as of 01/01/25)
  
Member since 5/14/08
Posts: 2
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Posted on: 5/28/08 1:59 PM ET
Thank you both very much for all the great information.
I am now able to make the bottoms fit snug as they should. I am not using the gathering settings now and getting better at judging the amount of pull to the elastic.
I have been having a whilwind of problems with the sewing machine with thread tension etc. I guess that's just another part of sewing to learn. Sorry about taking so long in replying.
Thank you again.
  
Member since 5/22/07
Posts: 271
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Posted on: 5/28/08 3:30 PM ET
In reply to topstitch125
I also agree with LouisaP and SheBear. A recent Stretch and Sew pattern I completed instructed to use a 1:1 ratio for the front of the leg and for the back leg you were supposed to measure the pattern piece (minus seam allowances) and cut the elastic at 2/3 that measurement. This measurement has been working well for all 3 of the swimsuit patterns I've made recently.
  
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