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Moderated by EleanorSews
Posted on: 6/22/08 10:47 PM ET
I made an easy sundress for my teenage daughter. The seams did not match up so perfectly. I thought I cut it out well. Then when I went to hem it...the dress flairs and I tried to do a machine blind hem stitch. Lots of ripping out. It just seemed to be too much fabric to fit between the seams...what did I do wrong? The dress is now finished but wearable after much ripping and doing over. This whole thing made me feel bad about my sewing. I have lots of books that I checked while I was sewing.
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I sew....I rip....I create.
Kenmore 19110, Brother 1034D, Innovis 900D, Juki Excite HZL G210
Kenmore 19110, Brother 1034D, Innovis 900D, Juki Excite HZL G210
Member since 12/9/04
Posts: 2015
Posts: 2015
Quebec Canada
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Posted on: 6/22/08 11:17 PM ET
In reply to mandeedee
Hi mandeedee!!
Sorry to hear you had a bad experience!!
First question, always... What was the Pattern #/Company so we can see what you were making??
EVERYONE has "feel bad about my sewing" stories... Just keep "at it" and ask questions as you DO your projects, OK!!
Rhonda
Sorry to hear you had a bad experience!!
First question, always... What was the Pattern #/Company so we can see what you were making??
EVERYONE has "feel bad about my sewing" stories... Just keep "at it" and ask questions as you DO your projects, OK!!

Rhonda
Posted on: 6/23/08 0:48 AM ET
In reply to mandeedee
Just remember that everything in life has a learning curve. You are on the beginning of yours. You will get better!
I have learned that even when I thought I cut well, upon checking I have not cut well enough. Now I check each piece after I have cut it out and do any needed trimming. The other problem is to make sure that you have sewn the seams accurately.
Mostly, don't beat yourself up if something isn't perfect. I think the most common misconception among adults is that because we are adults, we 'know' everything and everything we do will be easy and well done. Hogwash! You'll be fine. Just keep practicing.
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I have learned that even when I thought I cut well, upon checking I have not cut well enough. Now I check each piece after I have cut it out and do any needed trimming. The other problem is to make sure that you have sewn the seams accurately.
Mostly, don't beat yourself up if something isn't perfect. I think the most common misconception among adults is that because we are adults, we 'know' everything and everything we do will be easy and well done. Hogwash! You'll be fine. Just keep practicing.
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PattiH
Brother Stellaire XJ1 and XE1, Brother 2750D,Brother NS2850D, Brother LB5000S, Brother 1500SL, Brother PRS 100, Brother Airflow 3000, Bernina 530, Babylock Triumph
Brother Stellaire XJ1 and XE1, Brother 2750D,Brother NS2850D, Brother LB5000S, Brother 1500SL, Brother PRS 100, Brother Airflow 3000, Bernina 530, Babylock Triumph
Posted on: 6/23/08 1:18 AM ET
In reply to mandeedee
Quote: mandeedee
The seams did not match up so perfectly. I thought I cut it out well. Then when I went to hem it...the dress flairs and I tried to do a machine blind hem stitch. Lots of ripping out. It just seemed to be too much fabric to fit between the seams...
The seams did not match up so perfectly. I thought I cut it out well. Then when I went to hem it...the dress flairs and I tried to do a machine blind hem stitch. Lots of ripping out. It just seemed to be too much fabric to fit between the seams...
Hmmm....without seeing the pattern, I'm wondering what happened. You say there was "too much fabric to fit between" which seams?? Was this one of those empire-cut waists with lots of ease in the front of the dress? If the front of the dress was markedly wider than the back (or vice versa) check whether you omitted darts, tucks, pleats, gathers, or something. The other possibility -- I did this myself, recently
-- was that I cut 2 pieces of a pattern when I was supposed only to cut one. Many contemporary asymmetrical patterns have front of skirt pieces that you cut only one of, and not on a fold either. Sorry you had all that frustration, but I'm sure your DD is pleased with the end result.Best,
Mary Ellen
Posted on: 6/23/08 1:37 AM ET
In reply to mandeedee
Ok, two things...
If this is a flared skirt, part of the problem could be that your panels were cut slightly on the bias. This means you might have stretched out some of the fabric while working with it...it's easy to do, and some fabrics are worse than others. This would explain why they didn't fit together. Always treat bias-cut fabrics with extra care (this isn't limited to just bias garments...full skirts, necklines, armscyes - they're all bias). Don't let it hang over the edge of your table, ironing board, etc. for any length of time, as it will inevitably stretch. Also handle gently when pinning and sewing, taking care not to tug on it at all. Sometimes you have to "coax" it back to where it needs to be w/ your fingers or even a good shot of steam (let it cool before you move it from your ironing board).
As for the hem, again, the skirt is flared, so you will have more fabric at the bottom of the hem than where you will be pressing it up to. The more flared your skirt is, the smaller the hem should be. This will make that excess much more manageable. I also prefer hand hemming over machine hemming for a blind stitch. It's much, much easier to ease that fabric to where it should be. Plus, I generally get better looking results, too. Then (if the fabric isn't synthetic), gently pressing the hem w/ steam will help to shrink up that excess fabric. This is a common occurance in this type of skirt and NOT the fault of your sewing. It's just a matter of knowing what to do with it, that's all.
Oh, if I had a dollar for every lesson I've learned AFTER the fact!!
HTH!!
Eve
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If this is a flared skirt, part of the problem could be that your panels were cut slightly on the bias. This means you might have stretched out some of the fabric while working with it...it's easy to do, and some fabrics are worse than others. This would explain why they didn't fit together. Always treat bias-cut fabrics with extra care (this isn't limited to just bias garments...full skirts, necklines, armscyes - they're all bias). Don't let it hang over the edge of your table, ironing board, etc. for any length of time, as it will inevitably stretch. Also handle gently when pinning and sewing, taking care not to tug on it at all. Sometimes you have to "coax" it back to where it needs to be w/ your fingers or even a good shot of steam (let it cool before you move it from your ironing board).
As for the hem, again, the skirt is flared, so you will have more fabric at the bottom of the hem than where you will be pressing it up to. The more flared your skirt is, the smaller the hem should be. This will make that excess much more manageable. I also prefer hand hemming over machine hemming for a blind stitch. It's much, much easier to ease that fabric to where it should be. Plus, I generally get better looking results, too. Then (if the fabric isn't synthetic), gently pressing the hem w/ steam will help to shrink up that excess fabric. This is a common occurance in this type of skirt and NOT the fault of your sewing. It's just a matter of knowing what to do with it, that's all.
Oh, if I had a dollar for every lesson I've learned AFTER the fact!!

HTH!!
Eve
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People who say it cannot be done should not interrupt those who are doing it - Chinese proverb
Posted on: 6/23/08 7:58 AM ET
In reply to mandeedee
If this is a very flared dress than you have two options. A narrow 5/8" hem that is turned and topstitched or if you want a regular hem, it shouldn't be too deep, 1 1/2 " and the top of the hem has to be ease stitched before you hem it. This is not uncommon and nothing that you did wrong.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Posted on: 6/23/08 10:17 AM ET
Flared hems are a serious pain sometimes. I actually took a pair of flare legged pants into a tailor to have them hemmed once not too long ago because I didn't want to have to deal with them and I have been sewing (with lots of hemming because I am short) for 40 years. Learning to do smaller hems as mentioned above and be more patient with easing the excess fabric has made it a lot easier.
Also, if you look at your pattern piece, the flare at the bottom of the skirt is usually squared off. If you cut it that way instead of ignoring it and keeping the flare all the way to the bottom of the skirt, it removes some of the excess seam allowance and helps with the hemming. I will not tell you how long ago I learned there was a method to what I used to consider some sort of madness from the pattern maker....
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Also, if you look at your pattern piece, the flare at the bottom of the skirt is usually squared off. If you cut it that way instead of ignoring it and keeping the flare all the way to the bottom of the skirt, it removes some of the excess seam allowance and helps with the hemming. I will not tell you how long ago I learned there was a method to what I used to consider some sort of madness from the pattern maker....

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http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.
Posted on: 6/23/08 12:09 PM ET
In reply to mandeedee
Is the problem that the part of the skirt that you turned up seems to be longer than the skirt your trying to sew it to? Because unless the side seams are vertical and parallel to each other, it isn't just that it seems that way, the hem facing is longer. And hem can roll up if the inside is longer than the outside. You might get around this by using a narrower hem, or by easing the hem facing relative to the skirt.
Or, you can reverse the angle at the side seams. That is, you can go to the side seams from the hemline down, and make the line of the seam below the hem be the opposite of the hem above it. A picture here would really be useful, but if you get the idea it would also take the extra length out of the hem facing.
Tom
Or, you can reverse the angle at the side seams. That is, you can go to the side seams from the hemline down, and make the line of the seam below the hem be the opposite of the hem above it. A picture here would really be useful, but if you get the idea it would also take the extra length out of the hem facing.
Tom
Posted on: 6/23/08 10:12 PM ET
In reply to mandeedee
Thanks for the advice. I will do better next time. I am avoiding flaired anything for a long time. You were most helpful.
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I sew....I rip....I create.
Kenmore 19110, Brother 1034D, Innovis 900D, Juki Excite HZL G210
Kenmore 19110, Brother 1034D, Innovis 900D, Juki Excite HZL G210
Posted on: 6/24/08 11:03 AM ET
In reply to mandeedee
Quote:
The seams did not match up so perfectly. I thought I cut it out well.
The seams did not match up so perfectly. I thought I cut it out well.
I'm surprised no one mentioned the most logical reason, the seams didn't match up because they didn't match up. Iow, the pattern was wrong. FYI: patternmaking at the big four is entry level; people who have no experience outside of school get their first jobs there. Be particularly wary of the "simple" styles.
For your own sanity albeit after the fact, lay the seam lines together to compare their lengths. We call this "walking".
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