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Re: collar on shirt with no back facing? (posted on 7/5/08 0:14 AM ET)
Ok heres one for ya! I got Burda World of Fashion in Spanish!
Anywho, this collared shirt as far as I can tell has a front facing but no back facing. How is the back neck finished???

Here
is the diagram with pattern layout.

Mistake? or are there other ways to finish the back neckline that I dont' know about.

No, I haven't translated the whole thing yet...
-- Edited on 7/17/08 8:51 PM --
  
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Posted on: 7/5/08 0:29 AM ET
I use the seam allowance of the upper collar between the shoulder seams in the back neck area. You need to stitch the collar and facings into place as usual except for the upper collar at the back neck between the shoulder seams. Clip the fabric of the upper collar to just short of the seam allowance at the shoulder seam. Fold the seam allowance of the upper collar under and press. Place the upper collar portion with the folded seam allowance over the seams and slip stitch into place. You should have a nice clean back neck seam to the blouse. I hope this is clear.
-- Edited on 7/5/08 0:31 AM --
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Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.
  
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Posted on: 7/5/08 0:54 AM ET
In reply to CynthiaSue
Quote: dvmcindy
or are there other ways to finish the back neckline that I dont' know about.

Yep. Look in any RTW shirt. The back neck facing on a collared shirt is really a (sorry!) home-sewn thing.

If you need explicit instructions, most sewing books have them. Or, any Kwik Sew pattern for a flat-collar shirt. It's mostly only the Big 3/4 that use the facings.

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--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
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Posted on: 7/5/08 1:35 AM ET
In reply to CynthiaSue
Cindy, I read the English instructions and no, there is no back facing. The way Burda finish the collar is very ugly though. I'll type the English instructions for you but I would highly recommend ignoring Burda and doing what Marilyn described. If you need illustrations most good sewing text books show this method. It's used on camp shirts and the like.

"Stitch collar pieces right sides together along the outside edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn and press. Baste the joining edges of the collar together to the neck edge from seam no.3. Turn the front self facings to the outside and stitch to the neck over the collar. From the facing ends stitch the remaining section of the collar to the back neck. Turn facings to the inside. Neaten the seam allowances of the back collar joining seam together and press down. Sew facings to shoulder seams."

As you see Burda have you simply overlock or finish the back neck edge where the collar is joined and press the seam downwards, leaving it open and exposed. Yuck! HTH
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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
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Member since 3/28/04
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Posted on: 7/5/08 9:40 AM ET
In reply to CynthiaSue
I can't get a clear view of the collar shape on my screen, but here's another method that I often substitute when confronted with only a front facing.

- Ignoring the collar, sew the front facings to the front openings and then press them into finished position. Baste the cut edges together at the neckline.

- Sew the *undercollar* (single layer) to the garment neckline.

- Sew the *upper collar* to the undercollar outer edges. To give the collar enough breathing space for turn of the cloth where it meets the front openings, begin and end stitching at the neckline with a 1/2" seam allowance, tapering to the normal seam allowance (assuming 5/8" here).

- Trim, turn and press collar. Turn under remaining collar neckline edge to just cover the original stitching line. Hand baste, then stitch in the ditch from the garment right side. Or, if you prefer, edgestitch through all layers on the collar.

In short, it's the way you'd attach a collar if there wasn't a facing at all. Depending on garment style, just because there's a facing doesn't mean you have to use it -- you could also simply add to the front openings to triple-turn a buttonhole placket like a RTW shirt.

-- Edited on 7/5/08 9:42 AM --
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Stephanie Corina Goddard
  
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Posted on: 7/5/08 10:33 AM ET
In reply to CynthiaSue
Cindy - I do a variation of the treatment Marilyn described. I use a piece of bias along the back neck edge, trim the seam allowance and then hand stitch in place. It isn't a back neck facing, but it provides a nice finish to the seam and a very secure collar. PM me if you want to see a picture.


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2012 : starting stash 386, net additions 206, used 164, ending stash 428...I'm never going to get in front of this pile of fabric!
  
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Posted on: 7/5/08 2:56 PM ET
i edgestitch instead of slipstitch. like this:


the collar looks like this from the right side, and like this when you wear the shirt.
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Linda

Girls do not dress for boys. They dress for themselves, and of course, each other. If girls dressed for boys, they’d just walk around naked at all times.
-- Betsey Johnson


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Posted on: 7/5/08 4:08 PM ET
In reply to mamafitz
Looooove that! So professional
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Stephanie Corina Goddard
  
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Posted on: 7/5/08 4:49 PM ET
I'm so glad this topic was posted. I recently made a KwikSew blouse that didn't do much with that seam and I felt it was just not finished. Why didn't I think of altering it? Duh! Next time....
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Patti

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Posted on: 7/5/08 5:48 PM ET
Everyone thank you so much!!!
  
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