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Member since 8/5/07
Posts: 115
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Posted on: 9/22/08 3:16 AM ET
I am working on an underlined silk tweed coat which has a deep inverted pleat at the center back. After hemming it very carefully I discovered that the fashion fabric wrinkles at the hem when the garment is worn. I made the hem again, this time with some changes: I clipped the underlining here and there and took care to hold the pleat in shape while hemming, a little bit like when you padstitch a collar. I handsewed the hem with an X-stitch (sorry, I don't know what it is called) which is pretty elastic. I still get wrinkles. The hem is not at all stretched. As far as I can see, the hem needs to be a little bit longer than the garment in order to "go around" the garment. The clipped underlining did not spread open when I turned up the hem.

I suppose the solution is some sort of notching or clipping of the hem, but I would love to get some advice before cutting into the garment!

By the way, the problem only occurs in the inverted pleat. The rest of the hem is ok.
-- Edited on 9/22/08 5:00 AM --
  
Member since 7/4/07
Posts: 1671
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Posted on: 9/22/08 8:37 AM ET
When hemming a skirt with pleat, you need to clip the seam allowance right to the stitching at the top of the hemline, then repress to keep the shape.


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