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lining/interfacing/facing (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 9/26/08 1:22 PM ET
I am not a beginner, but I am a beginner when it comes to lining and sewing with wool. Last year I made a wool jumper for my daughter and the lining kept "popping up" in the front neckline area.
This year I am making her another one and I'm making myself a dress. I want to prevent this from happening again. I'm assuming I need to use interfacing, but do I interface the lining or the wool?
If I interface, do i need to finish the edges and how do I prevent a line from showing where I interfaced if I interface the wool? It is a lightweight wool.
I thought about using the facings and attaching the lining to the facings or using the sandwich approach but I don't want the wool fabric on my skin (for the dress).
These garments will be judged on construction so I need the "right" answer (if you know what I mean - I can often come up with solutions but they would not stand up to a judge).
Thank you - looking forward to help!
This year I am making her another one and I'm making myself a dress. I want to prevent this from happening again. I'm assuming I need to use interfacing, but do I interface the lining or the wool?
If I interface, do i need to finish the edges and how do I prevent a line from showing where I interfaced if I interface the wool? It is a lightweight wool.
I thought about using the facings and attaching the lining to the facings or using the sandwich approach but I don't want the wool fabric on my skin (for the dress).
These garments will be judged on construction so I need the "right" answer (if you know what I mean - I can often come up with solutions but they would not stand up to a judge).
Thank you - looking forward to help!
Posted on: 9/26/08 2:30 PM ET
Posted on: 9/26/08 2:37 PM ET
In reply to Leora
Thank you. However, I did understitch.
Posted on: 9/26/08 2:40 PM ET
In reply to withoutseamJohn19:23
Quote: withoutseamJohn19:23
If I interface, do i need to finish the edges and how do I prevent a line from showing where I interfaced if I interface the wool? It is a lightweight wool.
If I interface, do i need to finish the edges and how do I prevent a line from showing where I interfaced if I interface the wool? It is a lightweight wool.
You're planning to interface the wool directly with fusible interfacing, right? The easiest way (I've found) to blend the edge of the fusible interfacing so that the edge does not show through on the right face of the wool is - to pink the edges of the interfacing, either with pinking shears or with a pinking blade on your rotary cutter.
I've used fusible interfacing on extremely light weight wool and when 'pinked,' the edges of the fusible interfacing do not show through from the right side of the wool.
There's no need to 'pink' any edge of the fusible that will be hidden in the sewn seam allowances. --Lily
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Lily
Posted on: 9/26/08 3:00 PM ET
Re: lining popping up at the neckline of the jumper
For your next jumper, do use the wool facings and attach the lining to the wool facings. When you attach the lining to the wool facings, understitich the lining. Then when you attach the wool facings (to which the lining is attached), understitch the wool facings.
It is really desirable, for your dress, to use facings and likewise, attach the lining to your facings and then again, understitch the lining. However, if you cannot bear the wool next to your skin, do you have another non-wool fabric in the same color you could use for the dress facings?
As to why your facing is popping up on the neckline where you did not use facings, realize that wool does have a bit of natural stretch to it, just due to the manner of weaving. In contrast, the lining has no stretch. So, when you move in your dress/jumper and the wool naturally stretches/contracts a bit with your body movement, the lining pulls taut and "pops" outward, or in the case of your neckline, "pops' upward. This might be what's going on. --Lily
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For your next jumper, do use the wool facings and attach the lining to the wool facings. When you attach the lining to the wool facings, understitich the lining. Then when you attach the wool facings (to which the lining is attached), understitch the wool facings.
It is really desirable, for your dress, to use facings and likewise, attach the lining to your facings and then again, understitch the lining. However, if you cannot bear the wool next to your skin, do you have another non-wool fabric in the same color you could use for the dress facings?
As to why your facing is popping up on the neckline where you did not use facings, realize that wool does have a bit of natural stretch to it, just due to the manner of weaving. In contrast, the lining has no stretch. So, when you move in your dress/jumper and the wool naturally stretches/contracts a bit with your body movement, the lining pulls taut and "pops" outward, or in the case of your neckline, "pops' upward. This might be what's going on. --Lily
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Lily
Posted on: 9/26/08 3:22 PM ET
In reply to lilyofthevalley
Thank you...do you think that lining all the way to the top and using the facing eliminates the need for interfacing? Or, because it is wool and can stretch, I should still use it. If so, do I use it on the facing or the wool. I'm so nervous about fusing interfacing to the wool! I would rather not do that if I don't have to.
Great idea on finding another fabric to do the facings on my dress! I am planning on doing Hong Kong seam finishing, and I think it will be neat to do the facing and the seam finishing in the same fabric...kinda like a surprise in the inside.
Would cotton be ok?
Great idea on finding another fabric to do the facings on my dress! I am planning on doing Hong Kong seam finishing, and I think it will be neat to do the facing and the seam finishing in the same fabric...kinda like a surprise in the inside.
Would cotton be ok?
Posted on: 9/26/08 3:53 PM ET
In reply to withoutseamJohn19:23
If you're going to fully line your jumper and add wool facings, I would still apply fusible interfacing to the wool facings for two reasons:
(1) you said your wool is very lightweight and you'll want nice firm structure along the neckline and armhole seam lines; and
(2) yes, the wool facings can stretch out of shape during the construction process.
So, as soon as you cut your facings and before moving them around or carrying them anywhere, promptly apply the fusible to the wool facings. This guarantees that the facings will remain the original size and shape. Don't be afraid; the fusible and the wool are nicely compatible. Just don't turn the heat/steam of your iron up to Nuclear Heat setting b/c you don't want to risk shrinking the wool.
You might also want to stabilize with a staystitch the neckline and armholes of the lightweight wool so that they, too, don't stretch out of shape during the construction and lining process.
Cotton facings on your dress would work very well and look lovely with same fabric Hong Kong finish. In fact, it would be elegant. Don't forget to add fusible interfacing to your cotton facings so that they'll be firm enough to support the wool of your dress. Also, don't forget to preshrink your cotton as on rare occasions, cotton can shrink a little even during a dry clean process ... and that would be terrible, after all your work. --Lily
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(1) you said your wool is very lightweight and you'll want nice firm structure along the neckline and armhole seam lines; and
(2) yes, the wool facings can stretch out of shape during the construction process.
So, as soon as you cut your facings and before moving them around or carrying them anywhere, promptly apply the fusible to the wool facings. This guarantees that the facings will remain the original size and shape. Don't be afraid; the fusible and the wool are nicely compatible. Just don't turn the heat/steam of your iron up to Nuclear Heat setting b/c you don't want to risk shrinking the wool.
You might also want to stabilize with a staystitch the neckline and armholes of the lightweight wool so that they, too, don't stretch out of shape during the construction and lining process.
Cotton facings on your dress would work very well and look lovely with same fabric Hong Kong finish. In fact, it would be elegant. Don't forget to add fusible interfacing to your cotton facings so that they'll be firm enough to support the wool of your dress. Also, don't forget to preshrink your cotton as on rare occasions, cotton can shrink a little even during a dry clean process ... and that would be terrible, after all your work. --Lily
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Lily
Posted on: 9/29/08 4:22 PM ET
In reply to lilyofthevalley
Everything has turned out great on the jumper! It has the shape and stiffness needed so that the lining doesn't pop up. Using the facing inside with the lining looks a lot nicer, too. I am glad I took your advice to go straight to the ironing board with my facing and interfacing because the facing had already started to change shape!
Do you think it is necessary to tack the lining to the hem at the bottom? If so, if you could explain or recommend a tutorial, I would greatly appreciate it.
I'm going to try to enter this in the patternreview.com kids contest that ends tomorrow, so look for the photo. Thank you for your help!
Do you think it is necessary to tack the lining to the hem at the bottom? If so, if you could explain or recommend a tutorial, I would greatly appreciate it.
I'm going to try to enter this in the patternreview.com kids contest that ends tomorrow, so look for the photo. Thank you for your help!
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