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Need fabric and alteration help (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 9/29/08 6:44 PM ET
I have the Folkwear intimacies pattern. I made the slip view out of cotton - so it was more like a summer dress. I want to make one I wear as a slip this time and I'd like to use natural fibers. I was thinking silk or linen... I don't know ANYTHING about either, however!
Also: the size I chose was perfectly fitting but too tight across the bust. I couldn't think how to even begin altering those bust panels, though! So I'm not sure how to go about making another.
Any recommendations?
-- Edited on 9/29/08 6:46 PM --
-- Edited on 9/29/08 6:47 PM --
Also: the size I chose was perfectly fitting but too tight across the bust. I couldn't think how to even begin altering those bust panels, though! So I'm not sure how to go about making another.
Any recommendations?
-- Edited on 9/29/08 6:46 PM --
-- Edited on 9/29/08 6:47 PM --
Posted on: 9/29/08 8:16 PM ET
In reply to kellyhogaboom
Yes, this would be nice in a silk charmeuse. Obtainable from $12/yard and up.
My advice on how to enlarge the bust? I would make a muslin mock-up of the dress, slice the muslin open in the proper places, then pin strips of muslin behind the opening until I feel like the item is correctly situated. Rip out the basting on the muslin and now I have a properly sized pattern.
Note: if the bosom is bigger, there will likely be a dart formed. It will take too long to explain here, you will need a good drafting book, but I would rotate some of the dart so that it is taken up by the seam.
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My advice on how to enlarge the bust? I would make a muslin mock-up of the dress, slice the muslin open in the proper places, then pin strips of muslin behind the opening until I feel like the item is correctly situated. Rip out the basting on the muslin and now I have a properly sized pattern.
Note: if the bosom is bigger, there will likely be a dart formed. It will take too long to explain here, you will need a good drafting book, but I would rotate some of the dart so that it is taken up by the seam.
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Fabric Purchased in 2011: 37 yards
Fabric Sewn in 2011: 0 yards
Current Contest Moderator: Lined Jacket
Current Contest Participant: Mini Wardrobe
Fabric Sewn in 2011: 0 yards
Current Contest Moderator: Lined Jacket
Current Contest Participant: Mini Wardrobe
Posted on: 9/29/08 9:14 PM ET
I assume that slip pattern is cut on the bias?
If you were to make this slip in silk charmeuse you might not actually need to alter it much, depending HOW tight the first garment was... Silk fibers are smooth and tend to be stretchier on the bias than most cotton weaves that are a similar weight. And charmeuse is especially slithery, shifty stuff - :D
Are you wearing the first garment you made? If not, try it on and calculate how much looser you'd like the bodice to fit. You can even chop it apart as mentioned above by Therisa, or you could do the changes on a traced copy of the pattern.
One place to add might be along the inverted V lines in the center of the slip. If you end up with longer sections in the bust piece, you could gather them slightly to match the skirt portion when you sew them together. There are other options of course, but much depends on how the original one fits. Can you post photos? We could help you more if we could see where the extra room is needed....
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If you were to make this slip in silk charmeuse you might not actually need to alter it much, depending HOW tight the first garment was... Silk fibers are smooth and tend to be stretchier on the bias than most cotton weaves that are a similar weight. And charmeuse is especially slithery, shifty stuff - :D
Are you wearing the first garment you made? If not, try it on and calculate how much looser you'd like the bodice to fit. You can even chop it apart as mentioned above by Therisa, or you could do the changes on a traced copy of the pattern.
One place to add might be along the inverted V lines in the center of the slip. If you end up with longer sections in the bust piece, you could gather them slightly to match the skirt portion when you sew them together. There are other options of course, but much depends on how the original one fits. Can you post photos? We could help you more if we could see where the extra room is needed....
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
Posted on: 9/29/08 11:56 PM ET
My favorite fabrics for slips are a lightweight silk charmeuse and ambiance lining made from bemberg rayon. Both are nice and slippery so clothes don't stick. I wouldn't recommend ambiance lining for a bias slip.
If you want a creamy white color, 2 of the places I buy fabric to dye (Dharma Trading and Silk Connection) have 12mm charmeuse for < $9 (NAYY). 19.5mm is the 'normal' weight for blouses, I think the lighter weight is fine for slips. Silk Connection sometimes has remnants up to 5 yards that are 25% off the regular price.
I haven't tried it but I have read recommendations for linen slips on another message board. I live in a dry climate where static is a consistent problem so I plan to try a half slip from linen. Linen absorbs and spreads moisture better than cotton so it should be nice for summer.
Joanne
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If you want a creamy white color, 2 of the places I buy fabric to dye (Dharma Trading and Silk Connection) have 12mm charmeuse for < $9 (NAYY). 19.5mm is the 'normal' weight for blouses, I think the lighter weight is fine for slips. Silk Connection sometimes has remnants up to 5 yards that are 25% off the regular price.
I haven't tried it but I have read recommendations for linen slips on another message board. I live in a dry climate where static is a consistent problem so I plan to try a half slip from linen. Linen absorbs and spreads moisture better than cotton so it should be nice for summer.
Joanne
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joy and gladness shall be found therein, thanksgiving, and the voice of melody. Isaiah 51:3
so many ideas, so much fiber, so little time
http://fiberfan.blogspot.com
so many ideas, so much fiber, so little time
http://fiberfan.blogspot.com
Posted on: 9/30/08 0:28 AM ET
In reply to kellyhogaboom
I'd go for silk charmeuse or anti-static Bemberg rayon. The rayon will be easier to sew than the charmeuse, but the silk will feel way more lux to wear. But if you're planning a slip for anti-static qualities, the Bemberg is the way to go. Up to you.
Re adding to the bust - it looks (from the line drawings) that you have two opportunities to add WIDTH and LENGTH, which are the two key components. WIDTH to go across and LENGTH to go over (the girls, that is). The pattern line drawing shows an inverted Y shape. You can add to both sides of the Y, on the armhole side, up to probably 3/4 inch. If you're generously endowed, it might be more. You would have to gather the larger side, the armhole side, to fit the rest of the slip.
Good luck, and HTH (Hope this helps!)
Heather
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Re adding to the bust - it looks (from the line drawings) that you have two opportunities to add WIDTH and LENGTH, which are the two key components. WIDTH to go across and LENGTH to go over (the girls, that is). The pattern line drawing shows an inverted Y shape. You can add to both sides of the Y, on the armhole side, up to probably 3/4 inch. If you're generously endowed, it might be more. You would have to gather the larger side, the armhole side, to fit the rest of the slip.
Good luck, and HTH (Hope this helps!)
Heather
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Suo ergo maledicto
Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of others' opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary. - Steve Jobs
Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of others' opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary. - Steve Jobs
Posted on: 9/30/08 1:49 AM ET
I used a nylon fabric from Lucy's to make a similar vintage slip. Here's the fabricLucy's nylon-lycra.
It is really stretchy, so it might take care of the too tight in the bust problem too.
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It is really stretchy, so it might take care of the too tight in the bust problem too.
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Cheap fabrics, like cheap shoes, are a false economy.
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