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Member since 1/18/03
Posts: 569
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Posted on: 11/1/08 4:24 PM ET
This seems like such a silly question to ask, but how do you finish your pants crotch seam? It's such an extreme curve and clipping seems indicated, but then finishing is tough. Do you just serge it?

I would love to hear what all our experts out there are doing.

Thanks,
Rebecca
  
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 8572
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Posted on: 11/1/08 4:41 PM ET
In reply to Rebecca D
Rebecca, I think clipping that curve is a recipe for eventual disaster. That part of the pants gets enough strain without little notches that say "tear here".

On my TNT patterns, I serge the edges of the crotch seam before I do any of the assembling, reducing the seam allowance to a scant 3/8". Then, once the pants are completed, and the seams are sewn and pressed, I go back and reinforce the crotch area with a narrow zigzag just inside the seam.

When I haven't used a pattern before, and I'm leery of removing any of the seam allowance in advance, I sew the crotch seam, then serge the seam allowances in the lower crotch area together, leaving a SA of little over 1/4".

My theory is that no one should be in a position to get a careful, up-close view of that part of the pants, and how I sew it is no one's business.
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“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



  
Member since 7/19/03
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Posted on: 11/1/08 5:23 PM ET
We clip curves that are going to be straightened as the item is constructed and/or worn.

Your crotch curve stays curved as you wear it. There's no need to clip it.

It does need to be reinforced some way; usually I just sew a second line of stitching close to the first. And trim the seam a bit, depending what the original seam allowance was.

Elaine
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
  
Member since 1/18/03
Posts: 356
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Posted on: 11/1/08 7:29 PM ET
I wouldn't clip it, either, for the reason goodworks1 says- it stays curved so you;re not actually clipping to releive strain on fabric.

The only place I would clip on a crotch seam would be just a tiny cut in the seam just below a fly.
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www.thisisemilykate.blogspot.com
  
Member since 12/28/04
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Posted on: 11/1/08 7:33 PM ET
Aside from the above tips, I like to use fusible tape sewn into the seam. I find that this helps keep the seam from stretching and strengthens the seam.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
  
Member since 1/18/03
Posts: 569
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Posted on: 11/1/08 7:59 PM ET
Thanks everyone. I appreciate the help.
  
Member since 12/15/07
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Posted on: 11/2/08 7:58 AM ET
I like a flat fell seam in the crotch. It's both strong and tidy -- the way I like my crotches!
  
Member since 8/20/02
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Posted on: 11/5/08 12:42 PM ET
I do pretty much what Karla does. Serge SA before sewing the crotch seams. I start SA at 5/8" at center back, then taper down to 1/4" throught the curvy parts. For crotch seam I use tripple straight stitch through the curve and then switch to regular stitch as the seams straightens up. I press SA open and it presses better this way on visible parts of the seam.
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