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Member since 8/12/08
Posts: 5
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Posted on: 11/1/08 9:38 PM ET
I have sewn before but never jersey. The fabric has 6% spandx in it so it stretches also. I think its a cotton poly blend, but I have some that just cotton and some thats rayon but they all have 5-6% spandx or lycra.
I have made my own long sleeve t shirt pattern, but I dont know how to place it on the fabric. Is the body of the tshirt laid out length wise with the slevages on the edge? What about sleeves? I cant tell anything about the weave/grain etc. I do know where the slevedges are though. I have a ball point needed, and some tear away paper to put under fabric so it does not get sucked down......any thing else tips this stuff is so tricky.
Any help most appreciated
  
Member since 10/30/06
Posts: 901
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Posted on: 11/1/08 9:53 PM ET
If there is no back seam, many layouts will have you bring both selvages to the middle. The front and back are both cut on the fold and then the fabric is refolded with both selvages together to do the sleeves. If the front and back are too large for this layout, fold one side just wide enough for your front and back pieces. The sleeves will be cut single layer style--just remember to flip the pattern over when doing the second sleeve so you will have a left and right. Knit selvages are annoying in that they can be stretched or crooked. I just do the best I can with some of them if there isn't a rib I can follow.
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If you wait for the perfect time to start, you'll never start.
  
Member since 5/11/03
Posts: 4837
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Posted on: 11/1/08 10:00 PM ET
In reply to dolores conrad
Knits are different, but don't worry, you'll get the hang of them. I don't use tear away paper under knits. Do ease up a little on on the presser foot tension and use a narrow zig zag if sewing with a sewing machine (or you can try out your machine's stretch stitches if it has one--experiment on scraps to see what works).
Knits are cut so the greatest amount of stretch is around the body. Usually they are cut lengthwise like wovens are but there are some 4 way stretch knits that has the greatest stretch going lengthwise. That said, I still usually cut them on the lengthwise grain unless I'm making a swim suit or something very form fitting and then I cut crosswise. Use a rib of the fabric to line up the grainline--I use a clear quilter's ruler for this. If you can't find a rib, try gently stretching the fabric and you'll see that it stretches in rows. I think that the cotton/lycra or the cotton/poly/lycra blends would be better for a first knit project than the rayon/lycra. I love rayon lycra but it isn't the easiest knit to sew.
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Kim
  
Member since 7/29/05
Posts: 717
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Posted on: 11/2/08 8:00 PM ET
In reply to dolores conrad
For the future, I would highly recommend using a rotary blade to cut knits as it is infinitely easier than scissors. It's a bit costly but I force myself to indulge when they are 50 percent off. If you are worried that fabric will get "sucked down" lol, try sewing on a small piece of fabric first and then jump to your fabric placing the two fabrics close together under the foot. This is a common practice in the garment industry.
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"I am still learning" ~ Michelangelo
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