Sponsors
Sponsors
Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952
Posted on: 11/7/08 7:51 AM ET
I thought I'd share a discovery I've made as I learn to draft patterns -- on that's not in any of the 3 references I've been using.
I have a huge bust -- 42 DD or DDD -- and I'm getting the best fitting results by drafting my patterns based on my high bust measurement then doing an FBA on the resulting pattern.
The large bust method in the two books that mention large busts at all is to divide your bust measurement front and back and use that, but I'm finding that makes too large and sloppy a shoulder -- even though I have broad shoulders and an erect posture.
The book method also fails to compensate for the extra fabric that puddles between my bust and my chin in higher-necked items and gapes in lower-necked items. For that I need to do the equivalent of a swayback adjustment in that area no matter what, but drafting based on high bust makes that adjustment smaller.
------
I have a huge bust -- 42 DD or DDD -- and I'm getting the best fitting results by drafting my patterns based on my high bust measurement then doing an FBA on the resulting pattern.
The large bust method in the two books that mention large busts at all is to divide your bust measurement front and back and use that, but I'm finding that makes too large and sloppy a shoulder -- even though I have broad shoulders and an erect posture.
The book method also fails to compensate for the extra fabric that puddles between my bust and my chin in higher-necked items and gapes in lower-necked items. For that I need to do the equivalent of a swayback adjustment in that area no matter what, but drafting based on high bust makes that adjustment smaller.
------
3KB
"The combination of physical strength and moral sincerity combined with tenderness of heart is exactly what is wanted in a husband." Amelia Peabody Emerson
"The combination of physical strength and moral sincerity combined with tenderness of heart is exactly what is wanted in a husband." Amelia Peabody Emerson
Posted on: 11/7/08 8:14 PM ET
Congratualtions on finding what works for you. My narrow shoulders are similarly challenged but on a smaller scale and that's what I do. Until I started using this method I had the gapes and puddles too.
------
------
http://lasewist.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 11/8/08 9:26 AM ET
I found that to be true too. When I use my FB measurements I get an enormous bust dart. When I use HB measurements the dart is a much more manageable size and fit so much better.
------
------
Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com
If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
Posted on: 11/8/08 5:52 PM ET
In reply to 3KillerBs
>>I have a huge bust -- 42 DD or DDD -- and I'm getting the best fitting results by drafting my patterns based on my high bust measurement then doing an FBA on the resulting pattern.
I've found this to be true of the all flat pattern drafting methods I've come across as well. When one varies greatly from the "average" it is best to use the average then alter the pattern to fit, just as we alter any commercial pattern. Most don't mention this in their text but when I've spoken to teachers they mention this.
The other thing I have discovered is there are generally two different types of flat pattern drafting methods. One (the most common) is geared towards RTW manufacturing. These methods are drafted with only "average" m'ments in mind for a manufacturing environment.
The other is geared towards tailors and a custom fit. This second type handles variances from the "average" much better, however there is still an upper and lower limit where you are expected to alter the pattern after doing the inital draft.
Unfortunately the RTW methods are the one most documented and taught. It's hard to get information about the custom fit methods, which are more suitable for the home sewer and a custom fit.
Edited for spelling.
-- Edited on 11/8/08 5:54 PM --
------
I've found this to be true of the all flat pattern drafting methods I've come across as well. When one varies greatly from the "average" it is best to use the average then alter the pattern to fit, just as we alter any commercial pattern. Most don't mention this in their text but when I've spoken to teachers they mention this.
The other thing I have discovered is there are generally two different types of flat pattern drafting methods. One (the most common) is geared towards RTW manufacturing. These methods are drafted with only "average" m'ments in mind for a manufacturing environment.
The other is geared towards tailors and a custom fit. This second type handles variances from the "average" much better, however there is still an upper and lower limit where you are expected to alter the pattern after doing the inital draft.
Unfortunately the RTW methods are the one most documented and taught. It's hard to get information about the custom fit methods, which are more suitable for the home sewer and a custom fit.
Edited for spelling.
-- Edited on 11/8/08 5:54 PM --
------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 11/9/08 8:02 PM ET
In reply to Sherril Miller
Quote: Sherril Miller
I found that to be true too. When I use my FB measurements I get an enormous bust dart. When I use HB measurements the dart is a much more manageable size and fit so much better.
I found that to be true too. When I use my FB measurements I get an enormous bust dart. When I use HB measurements the dart is a much more manageable size and fit so much better.
My bust dart is enormous even after I shift 1/3 of the shaping to the shoulder and another 1/3 to the waist. LOL
But the shoulders fit MUCH better then when I tried to draft based on the divided measurements the way the books said.
------
3KB
"The combination of physical strength and moral sincerity combined with tenderness of heart is exactly what is wanted in a husband." Amelia Peabody Emerson
"The combination of physical strength and moral sincerity combined with tenderness of heart is exactly what is wanted in a husband." Amelia Peabody Emerson
Posted on: 11/9/08 10:51 PM ET
I may have to try this. I have never thought of having a large bust. In fact, before I gained all this weight, I wore a size A bra. Now I still only wear a C cup but with a large band size. When I measure my HB, I am 7 inches larger in the FB, so I guess I will try a FBA and see what happens. I have gotten by with using a smaller pattern (for shoulder size) and adding to the side seams. I just can't picture myself needing a FBA. Maybe I need a full abdomen adjustment since that is where my weight is? Unfortunately, the only one I can think of would be gathers or pleats in a babydoll type of top similar to a maternity outfit. That might confuse a few people since I am 62 but hey, with the wonders of modern science?
------
------
Yards sewed 2018--301 yards
Goal for 2020 - 400 yards --- Made it --sewed 400.76 yards. I have no idea about how many yards I have in my inventory.
2021 --200.125 yards
2022-- no specific number---Just redo inventory and sew more than 2021
Machines: Designer Diamond, #1+ (2), H Class 100Q, Viking 400, Baby Lock Creative Pro -- Sergers: Viking 936, Babylock Accolade, Babylock Vibrant, Singer Coverstitch
Goal for 2020 - 400 yards --- Made it --sewed 400.76 yards. I have no idea about how many yards I have in my inventory.
2021 --200.125 yards
2022-- no specific number---Just redo inventory and sew more than 2021
Machines: Designer Diamond, #1+ (2), H Class 100Q, Viking 400, Baby Lock Creative Pro -- Sergers: Viking 936, Babylock Accolade, Babylock Vibrant, Singer Coverstitch
* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it.
Selected Reviews, Classes & Patterns
Fancy Frocks Fabrics
Fine Designer Fabrics
Fine Designer Fabrics







