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Quick question! (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 11/12/08 2:22 PM ET
Hi everyone,
I am just finishing my first lined jacket and I have a question. I am about to catchstitch (eek! Hand sewing!) the lining onto the denim but I am unsure about the arms. The coat is done. The lining of the coat is done - except sewing the lining arms on to the rest of the lining. I hope I am making sense...
It doesn't say if I should sew on the arms first or not though...? I am assuming I AM suppose to but I wanted to double check.
Also, with the catchstitching I am assuming I should be doing all the seams until there are no holes - but should I stitch anywhere else? ie should I stictch the armhole of the jacket to the ling armhole so it doesn't move around when I wear it.
Thanks to any help, I appreciate it!
I am just finishing my first lined jacket and I have a question. I am about to catchstitch (eek! Hand sewing!) the lining onto the denim but I am unsure about the arms. The coat is done. The lining of the coat is done - except sewing the lining arms on to the rest of the lining. I hope I am making sense...
It doesn't say if I should sew on the arms first or not though...? I am assuming I AM suppose to but I wanted to double check.
Also, with the catchstitching I am assuming I should be doing all the seams until there are no holes - but should I stitch anywhere else? ie should I stictch the armhole of the jacket to the ling armhole so it doesn't move around when I wear it.
Thanks to any help, I appreciate it!
Posted on: 11/12/08 5:32 PM ET
Your main task is to sew all the lining pieces together, and to sew the lining to the body of the jacket along the facings (or edges) and hems (including at the sleeve hem). How you do it, whether by hand or machine, is your choice.
There is a method called "bagging" which is entirely by machine. If you search the boards or have a look at Kathleen Fasanella's website (Fashion Incubator) you should be able to find information on how to do it. Basically you sew all lining seams including attaching the sleeves to the body, but leave an opening somewhere unobtrusive (usually a sleeve seam) and then sew the entire lining to the facings and at the hem edges by machine. You then pull the jacket right side out through the hole you have left, and close it by hand or machine.
Another method is to sew the entire lining together by machine (including sleeves to body at the armscye seam) and then insert the lining around the facings (probably by machine but it can also be done by hand) and hand-tack the lining hems to the hems of the jacket body.
In my tailoring classes I was taught to sew in the lining body (without sleeves) around the facing, attaching at the body hem, and then sew the lining sleeves in separately by hand, ensuring the entire armscye of the lining is attached to the armscye of the jacket. Of course all handsewing is supposed to be invisible...
Pick the method that appeals to you, and good luck with it.
There is a method called "bagging" which is entirely by machine. If you search the boards or have a look at Kathleen Fasanella's website (Fashion Incubator) you should be able to find information on how to do it. Basically you sew all lining seams including attaching the sleeves to the body, but leave an opening somewhere unobtrusive (usually a sleeve seam) and then sew the entire lining to the facings and at the hem edges by machine. You then pull the jacket right side out through the hole you have left, and close it by hand or machine.
Another method is to sew the entire lining together by machine (including sleeves to body at the armscye seam) and then insert the lining around the facings (probably by machine but it can also be done by hand) and hand-tack the lining hems to the hems of the jacket body.
In my tailoring classes I was taught to sew in the lining body (without sleeves) around the facing, attaching at the body hem, and then sew the lining sleeves in separately by hand, ensuring the entire armscye of the lining is attached to the armscye of the jacket. Of course all handsewing is supposed to be invisible...
Pick the method that appeals to you, and good luck with it.
Posted on: 11/12/08 9:09 PM ET
THANK YOU Kay! I have been waiting for someone to respond to make sure I do it right, lol
I am cutting and pasting your info onto my excel because I know it will help me down the road. For this jacket I am going to do the bagging as that sounds the easiest.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
I am cutting and pasting your info onto my excel because I know it will help me down the road. For this jacket I am going to do the bagging as that sounds the easiest.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
Posted on: 11/12/08 11:51 PM ET
In reply to MapleCandy3
There are different ways to do it. What kind of jacket are you making?
If the bottom hem of the jacket is secured by topstitching, it can be even easier than was described. You can machine sew the lining to the jacket around the facings and at the cuffs. Then just tuck in the bottom hem of the lining under the turned up edge of the band (if it's a denim jacket, like I think you're describing), and close up the lining that way.
Another way is to leave an opening that you slipstitch closed (bagging).
Another way is to machine stitch to the facings and cuffs, then to catchstitch the bottom hem to the jacket. You can also catchstitch the cuffs.
In tailoring, the sleeve linings are sewn in when the sleeves are made, before attaching to the jacket. Then the lining armscye seams are stitched from the right side by hand.
You should tack the lining down where you can, between the layers just hand tack the seam allowances together. You can do this along the sleeve seams, at the underarm armscye seam, and at the shoulder pads. If there's a lining, it's also good to tack the pocket to the edge of the facing.
If the bottom hem of the jacket is secured by topstitching, it can be even easier than was described. You can machine sew the lining to the jacket around the facings and at the cuffs. Then just tuck in the bottom hem of the lining under the turned up edge of the band (if it's a denim jacket, like I think you're describing), and close up the lining that way.
Another way is to leave an opening that you slipstitch closed (bagging).
Another way is to machine stitch to the facings and cuffs, then to catchstitch the bottom hem to the jacket. You can also catchstitch the cuffs.
In tailoring, the sleeve linings are sewn in when the sleeves are made, before attaching to the jacket. Then the lining armscye seams are stitched from the right side by hand.
You should tack the lining down where you can, between the layers just hand tack the seam allowances together. You can do this along the sleeve seams, at the underarm armscye seam, and at the shoulder pads. If there's a lining, it's also good to tack the pocket to the edge of the facing.
Posted on: 11/16/08 10:53 PM ET
In reply to Tom P
Thanks for your help Tom! I't nice to know that there are different ways to do it. I always try to do it like the pattern says (even when I don't understand it) as I'm scared what will happen if I venture out to another technique.
This is my first time venturing out!
And yep, it's black denim :)
This is my first time venturing out!
And yep, it's black denim :)
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