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Member since 3/27/07
Posts: 2439
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Posted on: 12/11/08 8:02 AM ET
I'm just starting to cut a muslim for this jacket view D I'm not quite sure what size to make since the last New Look jacket I sewed, I did a size 12 and did a FBA and it was huge! I ended up cutting it down almost everywhere (review to be posted soon). If I sew a size 10 and my full bust is 36 inches, I'm not sure if 2 inches will be enough ease and chances are it will definitely not be big enough in the hips for me or in the back. I'm more worried about the fit through the bust though. As you can see from the pattern, there are no darts in this jacket. What do you think?
  
Member since 1/22/06
Posts: 1183
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Posted on: 12/11/08 8:11 AM ET
I would recommend flat measuring the pattern tissue before deciding on what size to use. Be sure to deduct for your seam allowances and see what the finished measurements will be. I've found more than once that the finished measurents on a pattern envelope don't always match the tissue measurements.
See what the pattern tissue measures to and compare to your body measurements and adjustments you plan to make for fit.
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Formerly sew*itch
  
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Member since 10/11/03
Posts: 1020
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Posted on: 12/11/08 1:09 PM ET
Cute jacket! Always sew the size of your UPPER chest measurement, not your full bust. otherwise you will have gaping all over your upper chest. You might be a 10 with a FBA instead of a 12 with a FBA. Take both measurements.(1)upper bust=under your arms and 2)full bust). Cut the size that corresponds to your upper chest measurement and if there is more than a 1/2 inch (i think-but maybe someone will correct this figure for me!) difference between upper bust and full bust, then do the FBA. There is a TON of FBA stuff on this fitting board that should get you through. And Fit For Real People goes through at naseum how to choose your pattern size via upper bust measurement. As for the hips, you grade out to your size at or around the waist. But this jacket is boxy and also doesn't have to sit over your hips so you can probably just grade out to your waist size.
-- Edited on 12/11/08 1:22 PM --
-- Edited on 12/12/08 11:22 AM --
  
Member since 3/27/07
Posts: 2439
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Posted on: 12/11/08 5:17 PM ET
In reply to CynthiaSue
This is probably a dumb question but can you do a FBA on a bodice that has no darts whatsoever?
  
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 13915
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Posted on: 12/11/08 6:50 PM ET
In reply to halleyscomet
Yes you can. You would add a dart either side, or vertical or both. It is shown in FFRP
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 12/12/08 3:43 AM ET
What all the ladies said! And congratulations on deciding to make a muslin. It will keep you from tearing your hair out when you cut your nice fabric.
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Elona
  
Member since 6/23/04
Posts: 4892
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Posted on: 12/12/08 10:16 AM ET
In reply to halleyscomet
>>As you can see from the pattern, there are no darts in this jacket.

Actually there are darts in this pattern, but they are 'disguised'. I have this pattern and it is a panel jacket. The bust dart is hidden in the panel seam.

>>I'm not quite sure what size to make

When in doubt sew a muslin and don't overthink the sizing.That's what the muslin is for. I'd say stick with the size 12, which is what you have been using up until now, and see how it fits. As this is a panel style jacket you probably don't want to overdo the FBA. If the fit is too big it's easy enough to recut it down to a size 10. HTH
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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
  
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