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Posted on: 1/6/09 9:05 PM ET
I was reading a costume diary where the seamstress used a satin stitch to finish the ruffled neckline of a chemise. Picture (closeup image available by clicking picture in link above)
Unfortunately, she didn't explain how she did it. I like the look a lot and would like to replicate it, but I'm not sure how, exactly. Do I do the satin stitch and trim away the seam allowance? Or stitch exactly on the edge of the fabric? Experiment until I figure out what she's talking about?
Anyone have insight? (I'd love to make a chemise like the one in my avatar. I'd be doing the embroidery by hand, but I like the idea of a satin stitch edge. I have a chemise with a black serged edge, which I love, but the Serger Fairy hasn't visited my house yet. LOL.)
Thanks!
-- Edited on 1/6/09 9:12 PM --
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Unfortunately, she didn't explain how she did it. I like the look a lot and would like to replicate it, but I'm not sure how, exactly. Do I do the satin stitch and trim away the seam allowance? Or stitch exactly on the edge of the fabric? Experiment until I figure out what she's talking about?

Anyone have insight? (I'd love to make a chemise like the one in my avatar. I'd be doing the embroidery by hand, but I like the idea of a satin stitch edge. I have a chemise with a black serged edge, which I love, but the Serger Fairy hasn't visited my house yet. LOL.)
Thanks!
-- Edited on 1/6/09 9:12 PM --
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~Elizabeth in the prairie
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
Posted on: 1/6/09 9:28 PM ET
In reply to stirwatersblue
In heirloom sewing you do this by stitching your satin stitch a tiny bit narrower and longer than your finished effect. Once stitched you cut off the fabric edge. I do this with a rotary cutter but some think I am nuts for that. Scissors or cutter, you cut close to the stitching but never cut the stitching. Then reset your machine for a closer, wider satin stitch. Stitch the same stitching but make the right hand swing of the needle just go off the first satin stitching and into air. This will make the fabric roll and the second stitching will give it a nice satin finish. Don't make your stitches too tight. ^They will bunch up and make a mess.
-- Edited on 1/6/09 9:29 PM --
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-- Edited on 1/6/09 9:29 PM --
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Posted on: 1/7/09 2:39 AM ET
You can follow solosmocker's good instructions plus add a strip of water soluable stabilizer under the fabric and beyond the edge. I use a strip a little wider than my presser foot so the fabric feeds evenly and the edge of the fabric doesn't ripple and distort with a tighter satin stitch. Then just wash away the excess.
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She looks for wool and flax And works with her hands in delight. Proverbs 31:13 NAS
Posted on: 1/7/09 1:24 PM ET
Thank you!! I think I'm going to give this a try. I've done hardanger/cutwork embroidery, so I do have some experience taking scissors to my stitching. ;)
I was thinking of using a fine sheer cotton like voile, batiste, or lawn for this (yea? Nay?).
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I was thinking of using a fine sheer cotton like voile, batiste, or lawn for this (yea? Nay?).
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~Elizabeth in the prairie
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
Posted on: 1/7/09 1:58 PM ET
I did the technique solosmocker described on some medium weight napkins of a linen-look fabric. Before I did the first zig-zag, I pressed the edge under about half an inch. I felt that this would give the edge more strength. After the first stitching, I trimmed next to the stitching on the under side and continued like she described. It looks nice. They haven't been used and washed yet, so I don't know how well it will hold up.
Posted on: 1/7/09 4:14 PM ET
You could definitely use any of the lightweight fabrics you prefer. You might want to consider using a spray-on stabilizer or brushing on some dissolved water soluable stabilizer to give the fabric some body while stitching.
I have a foot for my machine that I've had for years that is called a rolled edge foot. Same principal as the rolled edge for the serger. I use it for fine batiste when smocking. Sorry I can't help you with a source but your machine dealer may know if one is available for your machine.
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I have a foot for my machine that I've had for years that is called a rolled edge foot. Same principal as the rolled edge for the serger. I use it for fine batiste when smocking. Sorry I can't help you with a source but your machine dealer may know if one is available for your machine.
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She looks for wool and flax And works with her hands in delight. Proverbs 31:13 NAS
Posted on: 1/7/09 4:38 PM ET
I *have* a rolled hem foot; it was one of my must-haves when I bought my new machine. I was going to ask about this here, though, because it doesn't really make a *rolled* hem (although it has the little finger thingy that the fabric rolls around)--it just makes a very narrow hem. I have been wondering if this is how all machine "rolled hems" look (since all the online tutorials I've seen show results of very tiny flat narrow hems). They all seem to use a straight stitch, and I'm wondering if a zig-zag off the edge would give it more of the actual rolled appearance you get with a hand-sewn rolled hem. (I'm still in the "wondering about this" stage, not the "sit down and see what happens if you try X" stage. :lol)
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~Elizabeth in the prairie
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
Posted on: 1/7/09 10:12 PM ET
In reply to stirwatersblue
An overedge foot is what I think you are looking for. Make the stitches closer together, like maybe 1.5 on a 5 machine, and make them as wide as you want the satin stitch.
You don't need to roll a hem because it will curve in places and make it uneven. The overedge foot does what a serger does, but doesn't cut the seam; just stitches over the edge of the fabric.
There are two types: One has a blade on it, to guide your fabric, and the other has a pin. Being as your fabric is so sheer, I'd use water soluable stabilizer, in strips and use the foot with the blade.
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You don't need to roll a hem because it will curve in places and make it uneven. The overedge foot does what a serger does, but doesn't cut the seam; just stitches over the edge of the fabric.
There are two types: One has a blade on it, to guide your fabric, and the other has a pin. Being as your fabric is so sheer, I'd use water soluable stabilizer, in strips and use the foot with the blade.
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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine
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Posted on: 1/8/09 1:07 AM ET
Maybe a clarification is in order on my part. The rolled edge foot I'm referring to has a needle size finger and will roll under as little as 1/8" single layer of fabric. I only use a zigzag stitch with it....from narrow long stitches to wide satin stitches depending on the look I want. I don't have to trim the fabric edge at all that way as long as I use a stiffening agent to keep fraying to a minimum. I think I may have left the impression I was speaking of a scroll hem foot (sometimes called a rolled HEM foot) which actually rolls the fabric into a narrow hem and is used only with a straight stitch. (Also, an excellent addition to any accessory foot box.....takes practice to learn to use it but is invaluable in the right places). Sorry for any confusion. It's all in the semantics :>)
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She looks for wool and flax And works with her hands in delight. Proverbs 31:13 NAS
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