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Member since 8/26/05
Posts: 1249
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Posted on: 3/6/09 3:15 PM ET
I usually have to take a small wedge out of the front and back armseye in commercial patterns. I never knew why, I just knew that everything fit better if I did, and that if I didn't I had wings, front and back. I just received a new book, Fitting and Pattern Alteration A Multi-Method Approach by Judith A. Rasband. They show the exact alteration I make and it's needed when you have an oval shaped torso. That makes complete sense to me. Except for the girls, I am pretty small and narrow. When I was younger, if I turned sidways, I pretty much looked like a stick and only had some shape if you saw me from straight on. Even though I've put on quite a few pounds, I guess I still kept that same basic shape.

This opens a whole new avenue of fitting for me, as perhaps I can probably now start with a size 16, which corresponds to my bust, waist and hips.
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Deb: www.thinkingcouture.blogspot.com
  
Member since 2/19/04
Posts: 10120
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Posted on: 3/6/09 3:54 PM ET
In reply to Deb Fox
Quote:
Fitting and Pattern Alteration A Multi-Method Approach by Judith A. Rasband.


That's a great book! Glad it has helped you.
  
Member since 4/20/08
Posts: 7015
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Posted on: 3/6/09 4:33 PM ET
In reply to Deb Fox
You have my full attention on this one. I usually have that little wing on the front, even after an FBA. Most books say to do a forward shoulder adjustment and it will pull that little "wing" out. Sometimes it just doesn't work. I'm going to go find this book.
  
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7941
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Posted on: 3/6/09 4:46 PM ET
In reply to Deb Fox
Great book and might I add--expensive. Glad you found it because it is hard to find. I had it once but didn't use it enough for it to sit on my shelf. Sometimes I'm sorry I gave it up!

I'll be watching your posts too, because I too have an oval body, and as a result of the book, found this out only recently.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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Member since 3/20/06
Posts: 1146
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Posted on: 3/6/09 5:03 PM ET
I have this same problem! Intersting because I look very thin from the side view, too. I must find that book. Maybe the public library?

Ronda
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I don't mind going to work but it's that 8 hour wait to go home that's a B!TCH.
  
Member since 10/26/08
Posts: 3092
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Posted on: 3/6/09 5:54 PM ET
In reply to Ronda Rae
I found the book advertised for $54.00 (new) at Amazon.com. Another place to check is DealOz.com which lists Amazon and several other sources. Amazon was the cheapest, unless you want to buy a used copy which sell for a little less (but not much). I bought my copy in 1995 for $27.69 when I took a Fitting class at the local community college. I thought that was a lot back then, but this book has actually appreciated in value.
The book would be an invaluable part of your sewing reference library if you have to do alterations for yourself or others. It is a great source of info for just about every kind of alteration you might need to do. If you'd like to know the chapter names so you can get an idea of the contents, drop me a personal email.
If you decide to go the library route, try the main library in your area. I found very few sewing books in the branch close to where I live, but I bet they have a lot better selection in the main branch. Good luck with your search!
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Judy
  
Member since 7/29/05
Posts: 155
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Posted on: 3/6/09 6:29 PM ET
In reply to Deb Fox
Can you describe wings? What part of the armscye do you remove the wedge? TIA
  
Member since 7/19/03
Posts: 3916
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Posted on: 3/6/09 6:37 PM ET
In reply to Deb Fox
Quote: Deb Fox
I usually have to take a small wedge out of the front and back armseye in commercial patterns. I never knew why, I just knew that everything fit better if I did, and that if I didn't I had wings, front and back. I just received a new book, Fitting and Pattern Alteration A Multi-Method Approach by Judith A. Rasband. They show the exact alteration I make and it's needed when you have an oval shaped torso. That makes complete sense to me. Except for the girls, I am pretty small and narrow. When I was younger, if I turned sidways, I pretty much looked like a stick and only had some shape if you saw me from straight on. Even though I've put on quite a few pounds, I guess I still kept that same basic shape.



This opens a whole new avenue of fitting for me, as perhaps I can probably now start with a size 16, which corresponds to my bust, waist and hips.

By oval shaped body, do you mean an oval shape if your torso were viewed from the top looking down? (or imagining a slice horizontally?) And is the oval larger from the front to back or from side to side? I'm having a lot of trouble imagining what you mean....
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
  
Member since 2/19/04
Posts: 10120
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Posted on: 3/6/09 6:44 PM ET
In reply to Ronda Rae
I was able to find this book in my library and then I bought it. There are several reviews for it here.

ETA: Gorgeous Things review is probably the most thorough. HTH
-- Edited on 3/6/09 6:45 PM --
  
Member since 11/30/04
Posts: 6459
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Posted on: 3/7/09 6:53 AM ET
I get front and back armhole "wings" too. For me, it's a shaping issue. Full bust to narrow, forward shoulders.

I wrote about this on my blog recently, and how I do the pattern alteration and analysis of it.

The Saran Wrap Block and the Commercial Pattern: Part I
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Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight, Bernina 1630. Sergers: Babylock Enlighten and Babylock Ovation. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.
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Blog: 21stcenturydiy.blogspot.com
  
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