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Armhole Darts (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 3/25/09 1:30 PM ET
This armhole is a bit big on this Vogue dress that is sleeveless. I am afraid my bra is going to show. I have read that armhole darts are okay if needed for better fitting. This is a knit dress. Where should I put the dart? Where I need it or should I try to move it to the back of the armhole? Any ideas anyone on what is easiest and looks more professional?
Thanks,
Michelle
Thanks,
Michelle
Posted on: 3/25/09 2:23 PM ET
Can you post a picture? It may not be that your armhole is too big, just that your bust is stealing fabric from the side and that may be what is causing the gaping. If that is the case, a dart at the bust should take care of it.
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http://www.sewfitting.com
Posted on: 3/25/09 2:33 PM ET
In reply to SewSlow
I assume that you've done an fba on this dress. From your picture you look like you need to do them. A properly done fba should make the armhole fit correctly, as it will add the fabric needed in that area. Are you choosing a pattern by your upper bust size ?
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Posted on: 3/30/09 9:40 AM ET
Hello and thank you both for responding I am sorry for the delay. I took ill with a headache last week and got super buys with DH this weekend.
Yes, I do quite a bit of FBA about adding three inches. I pick my dress/top size by my upper chest measurement, and it has me picking a size 16. I guess I should say the opening on the armhole is too low. I often also have to adjust my shoulder point on the pattern as it is too long. My top will hangs off or over my shoulder point.
I wear a proper size fitting bra and my shoulders are small/short about five inches in length from my neck base to my shoulder point.
What I am is a true plus size petite. I know a lot of people don't believe this category exists, but I do not have short-legs and average waist. I am symmetrical and have small shoulders, short in length in my upper chest and waist are short in length. I take a tuck out in the upper chest and another tuck in the waist.
I think what might be the problem after your comment about a FBA should make the armhole fit properly could be slopping shoulders. I thought about what would make my armhole too low and that came to mind. I got to looking at the five fitting books I have, and I am going to give that a try taking a deeper seam about halfway down the shoulder line.
It might not cure the whole problem but maybe part of it. I have this problem even in RTW except Land's End tanks. They brag about their snug armholes in their knit tanks.
My bra comes up high underneath my armhole as it should in a proper fitting bra. Thus, this makes the problem worse. I just think it is improper to show your bra. I guess I am old fashioned.
If the deeper shoulder seam does not make a difference I will post a picture (try to) and get your input. I posted a picture once of a sweater I was redoing and it took me forever. Is there a way I could just put a link to my photobucket?
Thanks,
Michelle
Petite does not mean small size as you can have a small size and be regular size all over just have short legs and an average size body shoulder to hip.
Yes, I do quite a bit of FBA about adding three inches. I pick my dress/top size by my upper chest measurement, and it has me picking a size 16. I guess I should say the opening on the armhole is too low. I often also have to adjust my shoulder point on the pattern as it is too long. My top will hangs off or over my shoulder point.
I wear a proper size fitting bra and my shoulders are small/short about five inches in length from my neck base to my shoulder point.
What I am is a true plus size petite. I know a lot of people don't believe this category exists, but I do not have short-legs and average waist. I am symmetrical and have small shoulders, short in length in my upper chest and waist are short in length. I take a tuck out in the upper chest and another tuck in the waist.
I think what might be the problem after your comment about a FBA should make the armhole fit properly could be slopping shoulders. I thought about what would make my armhole too low and that came to mind. I got to looking at the five fitting books I have, and I am going to give that a try taking a deeper seam about halfway down the shoulder line.
It might not cure the whole problem but maybe part of it. I have this problem even in RTW except Land's End tanks. They brag about their snug armholes in their knit tanks.
My bra comes up high underneath my armhole as it should in a proper fitting bra. Thus, this makes the problem worse. I just think it is improper to show your bra. I guess I am old fashioned.
If the deeper shoulder seam does not make a difference I will post a picture (try to) and get your input. I posted a picture once of a sweater I was redoing and it took me forever. Is there a way I could just put a link to my photobucket?
Thanks,
Michelle
Petite does not mean small size as you can have a small size and be regular size all over just have short legs and an average size body shoulder to hip.
Posted on: 3/30/09 10:04 AM ET
In reply to SewSlow
I know exactly what you mean!!! I am very long waisted, but my crotch depth is that of a 5' woman!!! Then I am somewhat short from the crotch to the knee, and long from the knee to my ankes---good, bc that looks decent below a skirt.
I have said that I don't have a belly, but it just doesn't have enough room to spread out!
Reading your body description through a couple of times, I would suggest that your challenge indeed could be shoulder slope, which is not covered too often in fitting books, but on a recent retreat I saw Cynthia Guffey address it a lot on top garments. That fitting adjustment made a world of difference for many of the participants. Here is where I detailed that procedure for MapleCandy, as Cynthia demonstrated it to us several times on our top garments.
Sew Slow, you should be posting in the Plus Sew along. There are lots of us over there, and Debbie Cook and Sherril Miller are a real help for fitting. Also, there is lots of encouragement for sewing your own garments from everyone!
Hope this helps your challenge with the low arm hole. I would not want my bra showing either, old fashioned or not. Tell me in any day that an underarm bra is attractive! It just makes people look where you really don't want them to. You do have a face, and you want them to see you and say, "What a great outfit!!!"
BTW, Where do you live in MO? If you are near KC, you need to contact one of the KC Pinheads (we are down in regional community threads, but our thread comes up frequently bc we are fairly active---and you should see us at lunch together!) We do have a really fun group!
-- Edited on 3/30/09 10:08 AM --
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I have said that I don't have a belly, but it just doesn't have enough room to spread out!
Reading your body description through a couple of times, I would suggest that your challenge indeed could be shoulder slope, which is not covered too often in fitting books, but on a recent retreat I saw Cynthia Guffey address it a lot on top garments. That fitting adjustment made a world of difference for many of the participants. Here is where I detailed that procedure for MapleCandy, as Cynthia demonstrated it to us several times on our top garments.
Sew Slow, you should be posting in the Plus Sew along. There are lots of us over there, and Debbie Cook and Sherril Miller are a real help for fitting. Also, there is lots of encouragement for sewing your own garments from everyone!
Hope this helps your challenge with the low arm hole. I would not want my bra showing either, old fashioned or not. Tell me in any day that an underarm bra is attractive! It just makes people look where you really don't want them to. You do have a face, and you want them to see you and say, "What a great outfit!!!"

BTW, Where do you live in MO? If you are near KC, you need to contact one of the KC Pinheads (we are down in regional community threads, but our thread comes up frequently bc we are fairly active---and you should see us at lunch together!) We do have a really fun group!

-- Edited on 3/30/09 10:08 AM --
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"Sewing should be fun; make it that way!" Margaret Islander
Flying through life by the seat of my pants and hoping I get my crotch curve right.
"No humiliation is too great for a well fitting pair of pants!" Heidi Cooper
J6500P,
J1600P
J3160DC
J350E
JCP1000
Babylock Enlighten serger
My grandmother's Feather Weight
Flying through life by the seat of my pants and hoping I get my crotch curve right.
"No humiliation is too great for a well fitting pair of pants!" Heidi Cooper
J6500P,
J1600P
J3160DC
J350E
JCP1000
Babylock Enlighten serger
My grandmother's Feather Weight
Posted on: 3/30/09 10:06 AM ET
In reply to SewSlow
Quote: SewSlow
I guess I should say the opening on the armhole is too low. I often also have to adjust my shoulder point on the pattern as it is too long. My top will hangs off or over my shoulder point.
I guess I should say the opening on the armhole is too low. I often also have to adjust my shoulder point on the pattern as it is too long. My top will hangs off or over my shoulder point.
I can sympathize with your fitting issues! I'm a proportional petite at 5'2", my legs, arms, and torso are all shorter than average. I'm not plus-sized, but I'm not a size 4 either.
If your armhole is too low, and the shoulder point is too long, I'd say you need to start with a size smaller. Or trace a size smaller around the neckline area. To get the High Bust measurement you're supposed to pull the tape really really snug.
Have you seen this armscye adjustment, I think it's from Sherril Miller. I have the same fun combination you do of being petite and needing to shorten things between shoulder and bust, but also having a Full Bust.
When my bust is in the right spot, but the armhole it just too big and too deep for me, I use this adjustment. It works really well! :)
HTH!
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Becca
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!
Posted on: 3/30/09 2:33 PM ET
I am a plus sized petite. It took me a while (and the insights of PR) to also realize that petite for me means shorter torso length, particularly shoulder to waist. As you are already considering, shoulder slope can be a culprit. I also find that I take out about 1/2 inch on the petite adjustment line that is on patterns between shoulder and bust point. Even if that means I must lower the bust point during my fba, it helps the armsythe.
If you do not already do muslins, this is the time to start. It will save you a lot of trouble.
If you do not already do muslins, this is the time to start. It will save you a lot of trouble.
Posted on: 3/30/09 6:14 PM ET
Thank you so much everyone for all the advice. Ody I live in Joplin, MO, but drive to K.C. often for fabric shopping. You sound like a bunch of fun gals.
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