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ahhh! (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 3/27/09 9:17 PM ET
Okay, I'm the essence of a beginner in sewing, and I can't seem to digest the idea of cutting fabric crossgrain. Right now, I've got some double-knit fabric I'm planning on making a shirt out of, but I'm definitely scratching my head as to how to cut it!!
It's basically going to be a plain old t-shirt. If anyone can put grain and crossgrain in the simplest of plain English for me I'd really appreciate it!!
Thanks, all :)
It's basically going to be a plain old t-shirt. If anyone can put grain and crossgrain in the simplest of plain English for me I'd really appreciate it!!Thanks, all :)
Posted on: 3/27/09 9:33 PM ET
Here's a drawing showing grain lines. This is for woven fabrics, but knits aren't really any different.
Cutting on the grain -- see the grain line on your pattern? Line it up on the length-wise grain of fabric. The pattern grain line will be parallel with the selvedge.
Cutting on the cross grain -- turn your pattern piece 90 degrees and line up the pattern piece grainline on the cross grain -- the cross grain is a "line" that runs from one selvedge to the other aCROSS the fabric.
Follow the grain lines on your pattern for a knit fabric. Generally, the pattern grain line should be lined up on the lengthewise grain.
Confused? Take your knit fabric. Pull it on the lengthwise grain, then pull it on the cross wise grain. Which grain line has the most stretch? Generally, a knit will have the most stretch and return on the cross-wise grain. You want the stretchiest grainline to go around your body (think: across your bust line from side to side).
Is that as clear as mud?
CMC
Cutting on the grain -- see the grain line on your pattern? Line it up on the length-wise grain of fabric. The pattern grain line will be parallel with the selvedge.
Cutting on the cross grain -- turn your pattern piece 90 degrees and line up the pattern piece grainline on the cross grain -- the cross grain is a "line" that runs from one selvedge to the other aCROSS the fabric.
Follow the grain lines on your pattern for a knit fabric. Generally, the pattern grain line should be lined up on the lengthewise grain.
Confused? Take your knit fabric. Pull it on the lengthwise grain, then pull it on the cross wise grain. Which grain line has the most stretch? Generally, a knit will have the most stretch and return on the cross-wise grain. You want the stretchiest grainline to go around your body (think: across your bust line from side to side).
Is that as clear as mud?
CMC
Posted on: 3/27/09 9:34 PM ET
In reply to climbAK
The grain runs parallel to the selvedges, the finished edges of the fabric.
The crossgrain is perpendicular.
If your fabric has a greater amount of stretch on the crossgrain than on the grain, you should not cut on the crossgrain.
Your pattern pieces will have a line on them that indicates how they should be laid in relation to the grain. That long line...it may have an arrow at either end...should be on the grain.
If you don't pay attention to that, you will have fabric pieces that have the stretch going in the wrong direction, or in the case of cutting on the bias in woven fabric, your pieces can elongate and distort.
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The crossgrain is perpendicular.
If your fabric has a greater amount of stretch on the crossgrain than on the grain, you should not cut on the crossgrain.
Your pattern pieces will have a line on them that indicates how they should be laid in relation to the grain. That long line...it may have an arrow at either end...should be on the grain.
If you don't pay attention to that, you will have fabric pieces that have the stretch going in the wrong direction, or in the case of cutting on the bias in woven fabric, your pieces can elongate and distort.
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Michelle
http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/
http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 3/27/09 11:23 PM ET
In reply to climbAK
In knits you want the direction of greatest stretch to go around the body. That is almost always the cross grain in a knit. Your t shirt should cut on the straight grain, the grain that runs parallel to the selvage. Knits don't really have a selvage but they are cut, hopefully along the grainline.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Posted on: 3/30/09 1:19 PM ET
ahhh, that does make it more clear to me. I was thinking I had to cut it diagonal to my slevedge edges, which didn't make any sense. Thank you!
Posted on: 4/24/09 7:23 AM ET
In reply to climbAK
I still dont think I get it
Posted on: 4/24/09 12:30 PM ET
In reply to ohmisslizzie
If you have a line going up and down on a piece of paper, that line is the grain line. If you have a line going from side to side on a piece of paper, that is the crossgrain - it is going across the paper.
The same thing with fabric. The grainline goes up and down, the same direction of the selvedge. The crossgrain goes across the fabric at a 90 degree angle to the selvedge.
Patti
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The same thing with fabric. The grainline goes up and down, the same direction of the selvedge. The crossgrain goes across the fabric at a 90 degree angle to the selvedge.
Patti
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PattiH
Brother Stellaire XJ1 and XE1, Brother 2750D,Brother NS2850D, Brother LB5000S, Brother 1500SL, Brother PRS 100, Brother Airflow 3000, Bernina 530, Babylock Triumph
Brother Stellaire XJ1 and XE1, Brother 2750D,Brother NS2850D, Brother LB5000S, Brother 1500SL, Brother PRS 100, Brother Airflow 3000, Bernina 530, Babylock Triumph
Posted on: 4/24/09 8:15 PM ET
In reply to ohmisslizzie
A good , comprehensive sewing book seems in order. It will discuss and illustrate grain.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
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