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Member since 4/4/08
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Posted on: 6/11/09 4:38 PM ET
**note** This was originally posted in formalwear sewing but I realize now it's more appropriate under fabrics. **

I am going to be making a dress for a wedding and I am planning to make the bodice out of black organdy (if I can get it) or black organza.
I realize this fabric choice, in itself, might be odd, but I'm trying to recreate a vintage dress. At any rate, I am using a very basic dress pattern, but the bodice is princess seamed (though not the "full" princess seams--these only start at the armscye). I would like to underline the organdy/organza so the seam allowances don't show on the outside, and for this reason I am looking for an opaque underlining. Since organza itself would otherwise be the obvious choice, I am wondering what other options I might have that would give the bodice stability and disguise the seam allowances without adding too much bulk (note: I will also be lining the dress, either in china silk or cotton/silk blend). Would using a basic cotton be bizarre? If so, what sort of weight should I look for? Thanks so much for your help.
  
Member since 7/19/03
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Posted on: 6/11/09 9:36 PM ET
Is your goal to have only the single layer of the black sheer showing, and the underneath to be the same color as your skin?

In any case silk organza is pretty stable by itself, isn't it? If that's what you are using, then I think the main thing you need is something that is fairly opaque and is the color you need. Cotton can be very comfortable inside a dress... I wouldn't rule that out.

And, thinking aloud..., you'll want to be sure the seam allowances on the underlining are wider than those of the organdy/organza. I guess you could wrap the black seams with the underlining if that wouldn't cause too much bulk.

If you are going for the skin color base, then you might find that the two layers of it under the black seams will hide the black layers.

How was the vintage dress made?
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
  
Member since 12/7/04
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Posted on: 6/11/09 11:59 PM ET
Hi,
I just noticed that black organdy is being sold at Farm Fabrics, a reputable online site which I have dealt with for several purchases. The fabric is high quality and beautiful. Hope this helps.
Kathy
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Sewing and reading about sewing are daily pleasures.
I hope to use up lots of stash in 2023. I am also starting to give away fabric, tools, etc that I am not going to use in an attempt to downsize.
  
Member since 4/4/08
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Posted on: 6/12/09 8:15 AM ET
Thanks for the tip about organdy, Tall Mary. I'll check that out!

Also, goodworks1, I am not going for a skin colour base. The organza, underlining, and lining will all be black. The sheerness of the organza is not exactly a "design feature" of the dress. So, certainly, if I have black on black the allowances will not be as noticeable, but I just want to have a bit of a safety net! The original dress was slightly different in that it had 2 basic darts, so this problem wasn't as much of an issue. Thanks for the tip about the width of the underlining seam allowance--I wouldn't have thought of that!
So, is there a particular cotton that would be best for this application?
  
Member since 7/19/03
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Posted on: 6/12/09 11:15 AM ET
I think you should choose your outer fabric before you choose your underlining fabric.

Organza is very different than organdy. And the fiber makes a huge difference also. For instance a silk organza will behave very differently than a poly. Or a cotton organdy. I really don't think you can make an informed decision about the underlining fabric until you've got the main fabric in hand.
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
  
Member since 4/4/08
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Posted on: 6/12/09 12:13 PM ET
Fair enough! I've ordered some organdy (cotton, of course) and I hope it will work (the original was organdy). I suppose I'll just experiment with different materials for the underlining.
  
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