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Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952
Posted on: 6/19/09 10:45 AM ET
I don't have a lot experience sewing with knits.
Can I use a non lycra knit when the pattern calls for a lycra knit. I'm thinking mostly of Christine Jonson T-shirt patterns. And how would I adjust these patterns to allow for no lycra.
Thanks
Anna
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Can I use a non lycra knit when the pattern calls for a lycra knit. I'm thinking mostly of Christine Jonson T-shirt patterns. And how would I adjust these patterns to allow for no lycra.
Thanks
Anna
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Starting July 2018
Goal sew up 25 yards and take in less fabric than I sew.
Yards IN: 5
Yards Sewn: 5.5
2006 YTD
YARDS PUCHASED - 42.2
YARDS SEWN - 52.8
Goal sew up 25 yards and take in less fabric than I sew.
Yards IN: 5
Yards Sewn: 5.5
2006 YTD
YARDS PUCHASED - 42.2
YARDS SEWN - 52.8
Posted on: 6/19/09 10:59 AM ET
In reply to anna mermaid
While CJ's patterns usually do suggest knits with lycra, you can test how your garment will fit with your knit fabric by measuring the percentage of stretch. Her patterns usually include instructions on determining this, as well as on calculating the size you'll need in relation to the percentage of stretch you've determined.
BTW, I sew a lot with knits and I find that those with lycra have better recovery than those without lycra. Lycra also seems to give the fabric a little more weight, and thus better drape.
BTW, I sew a lot with knits and I find that those with lycra have better recovery than those without lycra. Lycra also seems to give the fabric a little more weight, and thus better drape.
Posted on: 6/19/09 11:00 AM ET
In reply to anna mermaid
I'm certainly not an expert on this, but as far as the CJ patterns go, I think it's the amount of stretch in the fabric that matters, not the content.
To use the CJ patterns "as is", she recommend lycra knits because they usually have a lot of stretch and good recovery (though of course this will vary with the amount of lycra in the fabric).
The CJ patterns I have include a worksheet that helps you determine which size you should use based on the amount of stretch in your fabric and on the fit of the garment (close fitting, loose, etc.) She also has this worksheet on her web site.
I have to admit that I don't always find the worksheet useful - sometimes I just go with my gut - if a fabric has a lot of stretch I go with my usual size, if not, I'll go a size larger.
HTH,
Liz
To use the CJ patterns "as is", she recommend lycra knits because they usually have a lot of stretch and good recovery (though of course this will vary with the amount of lycra in the fabric).
The CJ patterns I have include a worksheet that helps you determine which size you should use based on the amount of stretch in your fabric and on the fit of the garment (close fitting, loose, etc.) She also has this worksheet on her web site.
I have to admit that I don't always find the worksheet useful - sometimes I just go with my gut - if a fabric has a lot of stretch I go with my usual size, if not, I'll go a size larger.
HTH,
Liz
Posted on: 6/19/09 11:03 AM ET
In reply to anna mermaid
I sew with knits frequently but I am still learning about them, especially all the aspects of stretch (percentage, direction, etc.). (I should probably take the PR class on knits.) Anyways, in my experience, I can't imagine why you couldn't use a knit without lycra, at least for a t-shirt. I think the lycra adds a bit more stretch and more 'return' on the stretch (i.e. it stretches out less than say, a 100% cotton jersey). I don't think spandex and lycra are the same (?) but I find they're kind of interchangeable...usually something is x percent cotton/polyester/rayon/silk and then y percent lycra/spandex.
Posted on: 6/19/09 11:14 AM ET
Thanks you guys for your quick responses. I am also concerned about a knit that has little or no stretch lenght wise. I do agree lycra helps a fabric drape better, but I do find it hot and I have some knits in my stash that have no lycra and only strech crosswise.
Anna
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Anna
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Starting July 2018
Goal sew up 25 yards and take in less fabric than I sew.
Yards IN: 5
Yards Sewn: 5.5
2006 YTD
YARDS PUCHASED - 42.2
YARDS SEWN - 52.8
Goal sew up 25 yards and take in less fabric than I sew.
Yards IN: 5
Yards Sewn: 5.5
2006 YTD
YARDS PUCHASED - 42.2
YARDS SEWN - 52.8
Posted on: 6/19/09 11:46 AM ET
In reply to anna mermaid
If the widthwise stretch is adequate, the lack of lengthwise stretch shouldn't be too much of a problem. Although, I often find fabrics that stretch in both directions most comfortable for tops.
Christine welcomes questions about her patterns and fabrics. Perhaps you'd like to call her and chat with her about whether the particular fabrics you have will work well with her patterns. I've spoken with her a few times when I was ordering fabric by phone and she, rather than Judy, happened to answer the call. Christine likes to talk about her patterns and offer suggestions. I bet she'll have some good suggestions for you.
Christine welcomes questions about her patterns and fabrics. Perhaps you'd like to call her and chat with her about whether the particular fabrics you have will work well with her patterns. I've spoken with her a few times when I was ordering fabric by phone and she, rather than Judy, happened to answer the call. Christine likes to talk about her patterns and offer suggestions. I bet she'll have some good suggestions for you.
Posted on: 6/19/09 2:11 PM ET
In reply to chicaem29
Spandex and lycra are the same -- just different names from different companies from what I have been told and what I have read.
The degree of stretch is one of the important characteristics. The other thing to determine is whether it is cross-wise, length-wise or both way stretch. This can get confusing as some companies call cross-wise stretch only 1 way stretch while others call it 2 way stretch. The same goes for a fabric that has both cross-wise and length-wise stretch -- some companies call this 2 way stretch and others call it 4 way stretch.
Fabrics with a lycra/spandex content (even a small percentage) will tend to have a better rate of recovery and will be less likely to "stretch out" and "bag" while you are wearing it.
I recommend to my clients that fabrics with lycra/spandex content should not be dried in a dryer -- hanging to dry is best as heat has a negative impact on the fabric's stability.
HTH
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The degree of stretch is one of the important characteristics. The other thing to determine is whether it is cross-wise, length-wise or both way stretch. This can get confusing as some companies call cross-wise stretch only 1 way stretch while others call it 2 way stretch. The same goes for a fabric that has both cross-wise and length-wise stretch -- some companies call this 2 way stretch and others call it 4 way stretch.
Fabrics with a lycra/spandex content (even a small percentage) will tend to have a better rate of recovery and will be less likely to "stretch out" and "bag" while you are wearing it.
I recommend to my clients that fabrics with lycra/spandex content should not be dried in a dryer -- hanging to dry is best as heat has a negative impact on the fabric's stability.
HTH
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Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)
2025 Stash Busting:
0 yds sewn (as of 01/01/25)
0 yds purchased/received (as of 01/01/25)
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)
2025 Stash Busting:
0 yds sewn (as of 01/01/25)
0 yds purchased/received (as of 01/01/25)
Board Moderator
Member since 7/1/08
Posts: 5331
Member since 7/1/08
Posts: 5331
Massachusetts USA
Skill: Advanced
Skill: Advanced
Posted on: 6/20/09 6:55 AM ET
I just finished taking Sarah Veblen's Understanding Knits class here on PR. I've been sewing forever, but I learned so much! The main difference as stated by others is that recovery time is reduced in knits with lycra. Otherwise if you like the drape of the knit- try it.
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Sewing: A creative mess is better than tidy idleness. ~Author Unknown
Posted on: 6/20/09 10:36 PM ET
In reply to anna mermaid
Anne, What CJ patterns are you thinking of? I have made many of her patterns, and in general, I would be more likely to use a non-lycra fabric in a top before I used on in a pant or skirt of hers...unless the opattern calls for a woven, then I think you could use a non-lycra fabric.
With a non lycra fabric, you may find you need to come up with a different edge finish...turn and double needle stitch will probably not hold it's shape well with a non lycra knit. JMHO.
I would call CJ, she really likes talking to her customers so you have a good result.
With a non lycra fabric, you may find you need to come up with a different edge finish...turn and double needle stitch will probably not hold it's shape well with a non lycra knit. JMHO.
I would call CJ, she really likes talking to her customers so you have a good result.
Posted on: 6/21/09 10:04 AM ET
In reply to anna mermaid
Unless you are sewing exercise clothing, the little or no stretch length wise is easier to sew and has no real bearing on the fit as stretch needs to go around the body in most tops and dresses. It may have less drape, but it is a very individual thing. Generally however these knits may not have lycra in them so the crosswise stretch which is what you measure, may be less. I have learned my lesson with amount of stretch let me tell you! I made my tnt t shirt up in a layered knit that didn't have as much stretch across the grain, and the sleeves are tight.
On CJ patterns, I have found that her recommendations on size are way off if you are at the larger end of her sizing. I made a muslin and I still had a wadder. I felt encased like a sausage. Debbie Cook recently had a similar experience, and since she used a pattern was able to add a side piece to save it. If you are slender, than the slimmer fit is fine, but I have no desire to have all my lumps and bumps exposed. I sewed a size up and added in case sas and it still wasn't enough.
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On CJ patterns, I have found that her recommendations on size are way off if you are at the larger end of her sizing. I made a muslin and I still had a wadder. I felt encased like a sausage. Debbie Cook recently had a similar experience, and since she used a pattern was able to add a side piece to save it. If you are slender, than the slimmer fit is fine, but I have no desire to have all my lumps and bumps exposed. I sewed a size up and added in case sas and it still wasn't enough.
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