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Member since 10/17/07
Posts: 48
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Posted on: 8/17/09 12:58 PM ET
I have an issue with the skirts I make where the front is longer than the back (I assume its because of the "junk in the trunk ). In FFRP they discuss drawing a new waist line when tissue fitting. Wouldn't the waist band have to re-drawn? I did not see how to do this in FFRP. Also, could I just cut the pattern and slide it to adjust the back for the length?

Thanks in advance for any help.
  
Member since 10/29/03
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Posted on: 8/17/09 1:27 PM ET
In reply to ibbizy
I also have trouble with skirts being longer in the front than in the back - especially straight skirts. To make more room for the "junk in the trunk", I add a wedge (about 1") to the back. To do this, make a cut on the pattern, starting at the center back (at the hip area) across almost to the side seam; and spread the pattern by about 1". I will also sometimes use 1 sz smaller for the front than for the back.

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Beverly
  
Member since 10/17/07
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Posted on: 8/17/09 1:33 PM ET
In reply to BJ1400
Thank you so much!!! I want sure if the cut and spread method would work for this. It seems that this would prevent drafting a waistband versus the other method of drawing a new waistline. Thanks again!!!
  
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Member since 7/26/07
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Posted on: 8/17/09 1:35 PM ET
While the following is making a sloper, it illustrates a process. You can see how your slash and spread will function. Take a look at this artcile from Threads.

skirt sloper

It walks you thru adjusting a muslin and speaks to the protruding abdomen (my issue) and but the principle is the same for a larger derriere (your issue?). What I like about this article is that you can actually see how making the proper adjustments at the waist line will result in a skirt that hangs well and evenly.

I would not recommend simply cutting off at the front hem to even the hem because it does not truly resolve the underlying fit issue.

If you make adjustments to a skirt that has a traditional waistband, you would use the waistband piece as appropriate, i.e., whatever corresponds to your waist size. If you are working with a contoured waistband, you might try to make the adjustment to the skirt portion before attaching it to your contoured waistband. That way you might only have a little bit of easing to get the two to fit; or possibly a minor adjustment to the lower edge of the contoured waistband.
-- Edited on 8/17/09 1:41 PM --
-- Edited on 8/17/09 1:45 PM --
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Member since 10/29/03
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Posted on: 8/17/09 1:49 PM ET
In reply to ibbizy
At the top of the page on page 180 In FFRP, there is an illustration of this method.
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Beverly
  
Member since 8/22/05
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Posted on: 8/17/09 3:35 PM ET
Wouldn't it be easier to use a hem marker like this instead of trying to redo the pattern? There is another kind available that you would have to have someone mark for you, using pins, but I can't find it on the web. Mine is on a ruler with a metal piece that adjusts to hem length, insert a pin and fold up along the pin. Make sense or have you seen this? If not, I'll take a photo and post it here. When using a hem marker it guarantees an even hem all around.
  
Member since 7/19/03
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Posted on: 8/17/09 6:36 PM ET
In reply to Rhoda K
Quote: Rhoda K
Wouldn't it be easier to use a hem marker like this instead of trying to redo the pattern? There is another kind available that you would have to have someone mark for you, using pins, but I can't find it on the web. Mine is on a ruler with a metal piece that adjusts to hem length, insert a pin and fold up along the pin. Make sense or have you seen this? If not, I'll take a photo and post it here. When using a hem marker it guarantees an even hem all around.

For a quick and dirty fix of an already assembled skirt, yes, that would work and the hem would be even.

However, the grainline of the skirt would be off and this could cause other problems with sagging, cupping, etc. If you look at the side seams, they will not be vertical; the back of the skirt will likely stick out at the hem, while the front will likely hug the thighs. How much of a problem this would be would depend on the fabric and the style of the skirt.
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
  
Member since 8/22/05
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Posted on: 8/18/09 2:23 PM ET
In reply to goodworks1
Hmmm, if the skirt is cut on the grainline to begin with . . . . . I guess I'm just not grasping what your saying. I've not run into the problems mentioned with skirts. I would think that a skirt or maybe slacks would hang differently on different folks depending on build, weight distribution, etc. I guess I'll just have to ponder this a bit and get my head wrapped around it.
  
Member since 8/28/08
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Posted on: 8/18/09 3:09 PM ET
In reply to Rhoda K
Goodworks1 is not saying that the grainline of the fabric will change, but how it hangs on your body will. For some reason I cannot get the link to the Threads article to come up or I would use that as an illustration.

Let's try this as an example: if a person had a very high hip on one side, the skirt would "raise" on that side; thus, the hem would be higher on that side. The incorrect way to correct that would be to add to the hemline. The correct way would be to add to the length above the hipline so that the skirt would hang properly, thus keeping the grainline even, from the hip down.

Try holding up some striped fabric to your body with the stripes going horizontally. Then raise up the fabric on an area of the body to simulate a protruding area (for lack of a better phrase) such a large tummy or one high hip. What happens to the stripes? This way you can see that adding to the hem will not straighten the stripes.

An alteration must be done at the area needed. As mentioned, for a garment already sewn, this would probably not be possible and Plan B would need to go into effect.
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Oops, forgot what I was going to put here.
  
Member since 8/22/05
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Posted on: 8/18/09 4:22 PM ET
In reply to GlButterfly
Thanks. I tried taking a snooze this PM but couldn't get this out of my mind. Then all of a sudden it dawned on me that what Goodworks and you are saying finally sunk in. Thanks to you both for your input. Sometimes it takes a while.
  
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