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what to use (Moderated by Deepika)
Posted on: 8/27/09 1:41 PM ET
I am trying to figure out what to use for the underlining (it will have boning)
On previous reccomendation, I have ordered cotton batiste, but it is super soft and has no "body".
I was expecting the material to be used with the boning would have more body, to help support the fashion fabric and hold the entire dress stiff-am I thinking incorrectly?
I will be using the double faced silk satin, which is pretty stiff in and of itself, but just thought the underlining would back it up.
Let me know if I am off base on this one.
On previous reccomendation, I have ordered cotton batiste, but it is super soft and has no "body".
I was expecting the material to be used with the boning would have more body, to help support the fashion fabric and hold the entire dress stiff-am I thinking incorrectly?
I will be using the double faced silk satin, which is pretty stiff in and of itself, but just thought the underlining would back it up.
Let me know if I am off base on this one.
Posted on: 8/27/09 2:54 PM ET
In reply to tamuchick02
As I remember you are having lace over the top of the bodice part and you wanted to put the boning in the underlining part. In other words add the boning to the underlining and then sew the underlining and satin as one.
Any tightly-woven fabric that you like should work.
Here was something worth reading from Maripat in another thread in deciding underlinings and linings.
I used silk organza as my underlining, but then I didn't put my boning in the underlining either. Susan Khalje of Bridal Couture does sometimes put boning in her underlinings and likes to use heavy, tightly woven cottons. She also likes cotton flannel. One of her sample projects where she is using lace over top, she speaks of not wanting everything to get too thick either. So I would think seeing what the sandwich with the lace, satin under it, lining and what ever you use for the underling feels. With lace over the bodice, I don't know how much you will notice what the underling will or will do for the satin. The underlining in the bodice and skirt don't have to be the same material.
What the underlining does for the fashion fabric and what the boning does, are two different things. The boning should be the thing that especially supports the fashion fabric and holds the entire dress stiff. But if that isn't stiff enough and you want more support, Susan Khalje even sometimes uses crinoline.
To quote from Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture:
Do you have a fabric store close by or can order samples of different fabrics to play with the sandwich idea so you can see what effect you like. Because in the end it comes down to what you like and what effect you want. What worked for someone else or what they liked, maybe not be the effect you want or what you like.
I hope this helps,
Martha
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Any tightly-woven fabric that you like should work.
Here was something worth reading from Maripat in another thread in deciding underlinings and linings.
Quote:
Oh yea, I took Sarah Veblen's class on underlining. ...... Her advice is to make a fabric "sandwich" in your hand. It will give you an idea of how the fabrics will feel when put together. Also, how they will look. The underlining can change the "hand" or feel of the fabric, as well as the color.
Oh yea, I took Sarah Veblen's class on underlining. ...... Her advice is to make a fabric "sandwich" in your hand. It will give you an idea of how the fabrics will feel when put together. Also, how they will look. The underlining can change the "hand" or feel of the fabric, as well as the color.
I used silk organza as my underlining, but then I didn't put my boning in the underlining either. Susan Khalje of Bridal Couture does sometimes put boning in her underlinings and likes to use heavy, tightly woven cottons. She also likes cotton flannel. One of her sample projects where she is using lace over top, she speaks of not wanting everything to get too thick either. So I would think seeing what the sandwich with the lace, satin under it, lining and what ever you use for the underling feels. With lace over the bodice, I don't know how much you will notice what the underling will or will do for the satin. The underlining in the bodice and skirt don't have to be the same material.
What the underlining does for the fashion fabric and what the boning does, are two different things. The boning should be the thing that especially supports the fashion fabric and holds the entire dress stiff. But if that isn't stiff enough and you want more support, Susan Khalje even sometimes uses crinoline.
To quote from Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture:
Quote:
To select the best underlining for a particular gown, explore creative, unforeseen, even unorthodox combination. If the underlining enhances the fabric, the design, the wearability, and the internal engineering, then it's a good, workable choice.
To select the best underlining for a particular gown, explore creative, unforeseen, even unorthodox combination. If the underlining enhances the fabric, the design, the wearability, and the internal engineering, then it's a good, workable choice.
Do you have a fabric store close by or can order samples of different fabrics to play with the sandwich idea so you can see what effect you like. Because in the end it comes down to what you like and what effect you want. What worked for someone else or what they liked, maybe not be the effect you want or what you like.
I hope this helps,
Martha
------
Martha
Posted on: 8/27/09 3:04 PM ET
In reply to MarthaA24
I have a few stores close by, I may have to check it out this weekend. I live in Philly, which has Fabric Row, but it is mostly interior design fabric. There is really only one store that has the caliber of material i want, but the charge double what i can buy it for on the internet ($80 as opposed to the $40 I am buying it for!) THey are good for getting an idea of what i want to use and how it feels and looks, although I buy a LOT of swatches off Vogue fabrics and New York Fashion Center Fabrics.
I am using the crimoline for the skirt, but I don't really want the bodice to be that stiff. Since the wedding is in May, there is a chance of real heat (we had a 90 degree day this year- which is hot for the north east) that using the cotton flannel concerns me. I am just not the fainting kind of gal!
I will probably just go ahead and use the cotton batiste, I guess I was just expecting it to stand a little more on it's own. It just seems like a finer texture muslin.
I am using the crimoline for the skirt, but I don't really want the bodice to be that stiff. Since the wedding is in May, there is a chance of real heat (we had a 90 degree day this year- which is hot for the north east) that using the cotton flannel concerns me. I am just not the fainting kind of gal!

I will probably just go ahead and use the cotton batiste, I guess I was just expecting it to stand a little more on it's own. It just seems like a finer texture muslin.
Posted on: 8/27/09 3:31 PM ET
In reply to tamuchick02
Besides, comparing the batiste to flannel, the flannel has more thickness, but I don't think it really has anymore body than batiste has as compared to say an organza. Though organza seems even lighter weight than the batiste, unless you got a really lightweight batiste as they are supposed to come in different weights.
Martha
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Martha
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Martha
Posted on: 9/16/09 1:50 AM ET
I had to make four bridesmaid's dresses with chiffon. The strapless pattern called for 6 layers in the bodice with the lining and underlining. The bodice also used boning. The first I used was a firm quilting cotton for underlining but i didn't like the finished look and it was bulky for the invisible zipper. I had to replace the zipper in that almost finished dress, it split even when no-one was trying it on. I then bought polyester organza (inexpensive from the clearance counters) for the underlining and loved working with it and the finished weight of dress. It gave a much smoother look. look. I did preshrink all fabrics (polyester chiffon for outer layer and bridal satin for lining. All four dresses did look lovely, but the organza made three of them much lighter weight.
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