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Member since 2/18/09
Posts: 336
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Posted on: 8/28/09 4:35 PM ET
I've seen this basting issue a couple times, and I've never dealt with it. Most recently I encountered it while making a dress for my mother. The instructions told me for the neck facing to fold it under then baste, then top stitch stitch over the basting. I have accidentally stitched over my basting in the past, and had a completely miserable, and sometimes fully unsuccessful time pulling the basting back out after that. Wouldn't that be a HUGE problem for top stitching? Even if my top stitching uses a slightly longer stitch. Am I just misinterpreting the directions? I entirely skipped the basting step and the facing turned out fine with a lot of pins and pressing, so I'm not worried about it for the future, I'm just confused. It seems like it would be really useful in some situations, but I don't get how it would work!

So, here's my second question. I went to a second hand store the other day searching for salt shakers, and of course ended up buying a 2.5 yard piece of this beautiful brown fabric instead (for $1.50, WOOO!). I haven't done a burn test on it yet, so I don't know the fiber content (it feels cotton-ish) but it's this kind of light weight, and is crinkled in long irregular, but obviously intentional, creases. And I was wondering when working with intentionally wrinkly fabric like that...how do you go about pinning and cutting it? Do you try to stretch it out, or do you let it flop around sort of naturally? And would seams end up doing terrible things being stitched flat when the fabric's crinkly? I'm debating weather to make a top or a skirt out of it, I assume a skirt would be amazingly cute and EASIER for that fabric, but I rarely wear skirts since it's so cold most of the time, and a top would be so cute I'm just not even sure how to approach this fabric at all...

Here's a picture of it to help with my terrible description...even though the picture kind of makes it look like a dead animal It's pretty in person...I swear...

-- Edited on 8/28/09 4:36 PM --
  
Member since 4/4/08
Posts: 682
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Posted on: 8/28/09 5:56 PM ET
In reply to Rybe
With the basting question, if basting is the best solution to holding the fabric in place, then first choice would be to baste slightly off to where you are going to stitch as in the case of top stitching. Also many times there are more than one way to do something and just because the pattern instructions say to do it in a certain way, doesn't mean you have to. The more experience you have, the more you know what your choices are and what your preferred methods are. Plus stitching over basting matters more when it will show than when it won't. In putting in sleeves, I like to baste them in right where the stitching line will be. The sleeve cap needs to be eased in and by basting I can see how the sleeve will look when I'm done as far as general look and the hang. If there is something I don't like it is easier to correct at this point than after the sleeve is permanently seen in. If not all the basting gets pulled out, I don't worry about it. I can tell from the outside of the garment if any basting shows or not, that is what really matters. In general, I find the easiest way for me to get this basting out is to clip the thread close to where it is caught with machine stitching and use tweezers to help pull it out.
As more people add their input, undoubtedly different people will have different soluations and do things differently.
All that really matters is that you find what works for you.
Martha
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Martha
  
Member since 5/9/05
Posts: 1471
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Posted on: 8/28/09 10:41 PM ET
I love to use washaway thread for basting by machine and by hand. It is very fine and doesn't create any drag or tension on your fabric. Anything that doesn't pull out readily can be removed with a spritz of water. It is invaluable on knits that want to roll on the cut edges. You can baste 1/16" away from the cut edge and coverstitch or topstitch right on top of it. Just be sure to store the spool and bobbin in a ziplock to keep the humidity out when you aren't using it.

My take on your fabric is to prewash it and let it dry flat or crinkle roll it around a tube to let it dry (aka a broomstick skirt). Then I would treat it just like flat yardage. Choose a pattern with a simple line and loose fit and let the fabric provide the design. You would probably benefit for using Wonder Tape to hold the crinkles within the seam allowances before stitching them to preserve the crinkle. I have a really cute T-shirt style RTW top that is crinkled and the neck and hems are done with a rolled hem which gives a lettuce edge effect when it flattens out the crinkles.

Have fun with this. The price was right and even if you don't get it 'perfect' it will still be better than RTW and you will have learned some usable lessons!
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She looks for wool and flax And works with her hands in delight. Proverbs 31:13 NAS
  
Member since 2/18/09
Posts: 336
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Posted on: 8/29/09 10:26 PM ET
I'm not quite sure what you mean by treating it like flat yardage. If I treated it like flat yardage, I'd iron it to get all the crinkles out! but I'm afraid if I leave it all wrinkly when I cut it my patter pieces could end up deformed, but if I make it flat before I cut it then it would fit awkwardly because it would shrink back down. Or am I just worrying about it too much? heh
  
Member since 5/9/05
Posts: 1471
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Posted on: 8/30/09 0:50 AM ET
In reply to Rybe
I guess I wasn't very clear was I? I would lay the fabric out flat leaving the wrinkles in place.

Cut your pattern pieces in single layers to preserve the pattern shape. You could use one of several techniques to preserve the seam shape and length. My preference would be to run a length of transparent Scotch tape along and just inside the seam allowance. That will hold the crinkles in place and you can stitch through it easily on the machine if you get it over the seam line. It will perforate and can be easily removed. Just be sure to remove it before serging if you choose that seam finish. Or stitch 1/8" away from the first stitching to hold the crinkles in the seam allowance and then use pinking shears to finish the seam.

Using a simple pattern with a loose fit will allow the fabric to find it's own shape. Think in terms of something drapey, not structured and you'll have a winner!

If you have enough fabric to play with you'll build some confidence if you do some test samples. My very best lessons ended up in the wastebasket! If it doesn't work there will always be more fabric
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She looks for wool and flax And works with her hands in delight. Proverbs 31:13 NAS
  
Member since 6/26/08
Posts: 857
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Posted on: 8/30/09 7:19 AM ET
Sometimes, if I feel it is necessary for exact placement of permanent stitching and if the fabric can handle the basting stitches in what will be the garment area (ie, it will not show stitch marks after the basting is removed), then I will baste two lines close together but leaving space between the two lines, and in this space is where I make my permanent stitches. Then remove both of the lines of basting which are on either side of the permanent stitching. This has always worked well for me.
  
Member since 2/18/09
Posts: 336
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Posted on: 8/30/09 2:37 PM ET
:) thanks for the advice all! I'll have to see how my skirt works out, and thanks for clarifying the whole top stitch thing!
  
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