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Member since 9/3/07
Posts: 153
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Posted on: 9/19/09 10:30 AM ET
I made a couple jackets and used hair canvas - not the fusible kind. On one jacket I cut a strip on the bias and used it as a sleeve cap. It worked beautifully but it is so scratchy on the fronts of my arms. I think it is from the cut edges of the hair canvas.

On the other jacket I cut a back shield to add body to the back and shoulders and it worked great - exactly like I wanted. On this one I even cut strips of muslin and bound the armhole seams...and it is still scratchy at the armhole seams.

Has anyone else ever encountered this problem and how do you deal with it?

Thanks,

Mary
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"Why be difficult?.....with just a little more effort, you can be completely impossible."



2009 out: 25.5 yds
2009 in: 15 yds.
  
Member since 11/21/04
Posts: 419
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Posted on: 9/19/09 11:08 AM ET
I have used hair canvas fairly often but have never encountered this issue. Without seeing pictures of your jackets and how the canvas was installed, it's hard to say what the problem is. However a couple of things occur to me.

You would never use hair canvas in an unlined jacket. There is always going to be a layer between you and the hair canvas. I assume you did line your jacket, but I mention it for completeness.

Second, you should not leave hair canvas the same size (including SAs) as the fashion fabric. You can go so far as to remove the SAs before putting the hair canvas in the garment, attaching some kind of muslin or other plain and non-bulky fabric strips to the edge of the hair canvas which then are sewn on the SAs into the garment edges. Or you can cut the hair canvas with SAs, sew it in, and then trim the edges as close as possible to the seam. Either method should prevent your hair canvas cut edges from getting at you at the armhole seams.

The third thing is that hair canvas has limited uses. I wouldn't use it as a sleeve head (I assume that's what you meant). I'd use a softer and more supple fabric.

Perhaps one of these suggestions might address your issue.
  
Member since 9/12/05
Posts: 2403
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Posted on: 9/19/09 12:11 PM ET
In reply to MsMaryO
I completely agree with Kay Y about hair canvas. Infact, I refer to several of her reviews for tips on tailoring. I would suggest that you might need to trim it back from the SA further. Also, I use light quilt batting for sleeve heads instead of haircanvas.

I barely tolerate it while I am fitting, I can't imagine it scratching me after completion.
I would love to see some of your work so that I can get a better idea where it is poking through.
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http://beccabeckstuff.blogspot.com/

Damn the muslin, full speed ahead!
  
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 13492
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Posted on: 9/19/09 12:17 PM ET
In reply to MsMaryO
You've obviously put in a lot of work, but maybe some other tailoring sources would help. First, there are different weights of hair canvas, some designed for women's lighter garments. It sounds as though you got a really heavy one. Second, as Kay says, the canvas should be trimmed out of the seam allowance (there are hand techniques for securing it). Third, it's too heavy for the back shield, which even in menswear is often a rather light fabric, and finally, sleeve heads are classically made of a folded strip of light, soft wool called 'lambswool' (now very hard to find), but scratchy fabrics are not used here.

Here are some nice photos showing the hand tailoring process with various weights and types of stabilizer, as well as taping.
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Elona
  
Member since 5/27/04
Posts: 3769
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Posted on: 9/19/09 1:51 PM ET
In reply to Elona
I am sewing my first tailored jacket, and the Hymo (hair canvas) has just arrived. I bought a lightweight for a very light wool jacket. Thanks for the post it was timely.
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"A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous.”
Coco Chanel

Stash Sewn in 2011 148.5 Yds
Stash Sewn in 2012.... counting...

http://adonising.blogspot.com
  
Member since 9/3/07
Posts: 153
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Posted on: 9/19/09 2:01 PM ET
Thanks, everyone. It dawned on me to trim it out of the seam allowances after my first jacket. That was where I cut a bias strip and used it to ease the sleeve cap. It worked really nicely. I like the look of it much better than using lightweight batting. I got that tip out of Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing.

I won't use it as a back shield again. I can even feel it scratching through the Ambience lining I used. I did like the extra body it added though.

So...my next venture will be with cotton canvas maybe? I don't think muslin would be stiff enough for a sleeve head.
-- Edited on 9/19/09 2:49 PM --
------
"Why be difficult?.....with just a little more effort, you can be completely impossible."



2009 out: 25.5 yds
2009 in: 15 yds.
  
Member since 11/21/04
Posts: 419
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Posted on: 9/19/09 7:16 PM ET
Are you using the bias strip in the sleeve cap to ease the cap i.e. sewing while pulling it taut? You can use another less scratchy wool. Bias Strip to ease sleeve cap

For a true sleeve head (i.e. to fill in the eased cap, prevent puckering at the seam), I cut them according to the sleeve cap pattern out of a thin needlepunched fleece (thin quilt batting or similar). I sew them in by hand, attaching only to the SAs.
Sleeve head of fleece, sewn in place


-- Edited on 9/19/09 7:22 PM --
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 9/19/09 9:18 PM ET
In reply to MsMaryO
As Kay says, you need something soft, rather fluffy, and mold-able there, so as to fill out the sleeve cap for a long period of time. Cotton canvas would ultimately droop and crease, kind of like a tent in the rain--not a pretty effect. Go for fluffy. Some people actually use things like polarfleece.

Are you working from a tailoring book? If not, you might want to buy one. Most of them list specific supplies, and the variety thereof might be surprising.
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Elona
  
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 13915
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Posted on: 9/19/09 9:31 PM ET
In reply to MsMaryO
Hair canvas is only used in lined jackets so that makes the scratchiness irrelevant. I am assuming that you didn't line these jackets.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
  
Member since 6/8/09
Posts: 485
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Posted on: 9/19/09 10:59 PM ET
In reply to Elona
Quote: Elona
You've obviously put in a lot of work, but maybe some other tailoring sources would help. First, there are different weights of hair canvas, some designed for women's lighter garments. It sounds as though you got a really heavy one. Second, as Kay says, the canvas should be trimmed out of the seam allowance (there are hand techniques for securing it). Third, it's too heavy for the back shield, which even in menswear is often a rather light fabric, and finally, sleeve heads are classically made of a folded strip of light, soft wool called 'lambswool' (now very hard to find), but scratchy fabrics are not used here.



Here are some nice photos showing the hand tailoring process with various weights and types of stabilizer, as well as taping.

Top quality mens coat's often have sleeve heads made of hair canvas.
Most of the things used instead will break down, and make droopy shoulders.
  
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