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two layers of wool flannel (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 12/17/09 11:40 AM ET
Oh how I love making coats. I have made many and continue to hone my skills. I am making two right now for my kids. One is a relatively light wool flannel, and one a no-wale corduroy. Both will be underlined with a wool blend (slightly heavier wool flannel) and lined with a silk twill.
I am wondering if the thread I have is appropriate, and what size needle to use.
I try to shop local and we have only two options: Walmart, or a quilt store (I love the women there and have a long relationship with them - even though I don't quilt). Besides wanting to support my quilting shop friends, I have learned with experience that poor threads aren't fun to sew with, so I buy the Mettler at the quilting shop.
For thread they have two options for sturdier sewing, according to the proprietress: either a 40 wt cotton or a 50 wt polyester. The proprietress told me to use the lighter weight poly and said it would be very strong, so I bought two spools.
I have always heard you choose needle size based on the fabric you are sewing on (or in some cases the thread, like a topstitching needle). But recently the Old Sewing Machine Guy who came to look at my friend's Singer gave us a series of confusing lectures, one of which is that you should choose the sewing machine needle based on the thread size, not the garment material. I'm thinking of using a Universal 14 for this project; does that sound OK?
And finally: where to find some good topstitching thread? I tried to use Gutermann recently and it shredded up on a topstitching needle.
Any help is much appreciated! Thank you!
I am wondering if the thread I have is appropriate, and what size needle to use.
I try to shop local and we have only two options: Walmart, or a quilt store (I love the women there and have a long relationship with them - even though I don't quilt). Besides wanting to support my quilting shop friends, I have learned with experience that poor threads aren't fun to sew with, so I buy the Mettler at the quilting shop.
For thread they have two options for sturdier sewing, according to the proprietress: either a 40 wt cotton or a 50 wt polyester. The proprietress told me to use the lighter weight poly and said it would be very strong, so I bought two spools.
I have always heard you choose needle size based on the fabric you are sewing on (or in some cases the thread, like a topstitching needle). But recently the Old Sewing Machine Guy who came to look at my friend's Singer gave us a series of confusing lectures, one of which is that you should choose the sewing machine needle based on the thread size, not the garment material. I'm thinking of using a Universal 14 for this project; does that sound OK?
And finally: where to find some good topstitching thread? I tried to use Gutermann recently and it shredded up on a topstitching needle.
Any help is much appreciated! Thank you!
Posted on: 12/18/09 1:52 PM ET
In reply to kellyhogaboom
Kelly, I've heard the different theories, but for me the proof of the pudding is in the tasting. Whenever I sew a jacket, I use Mettler or Gutermann poly thread, and I test several sizes and types of needles to see which one works best for each stage of the garment. For some parts of some projects many different types of needles will provide acceptable results. For other projects, it's more important to pick the right needle for the job.
You should always have a good selection of needles in your stash. A 14 (90) might work for most of your coat, but in certain places where you need more penetrating power you might want to size up to a 16 or even an 18. I prefer to sew with sharps needles rather than the blunter universals.
You will also want to size your needle down for your lining. When I sew a lining made of bemberg rayon,I use a 65 sharps needle -- I don't know whether that would be too small for your silk twill.
Be careful about topstitching thread and topstitching needles. The thicker threads can be hard to use, especially with some sewing machines. I have several types and brands of topstitching and the somewhat thinner upholstery thread, but I now prefer to use two strands of regular poly thread.
Topstitching needles differ from regular sharps needles in that they have a larger eye to accommodate thicker thread. If you use a single strand of thin poly thread, it doesn't feed through the larger eye properly.
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You should always have a good selection of needles in your stash. A 14 (90) might work for most of your coat, but in certain places where you need more penetrating power you might want to size up to a 16 or even an 18. I prefer to sew with sharps needles rather than the blunter universals.
You will also want to size your needle down for your lining. When I sew a lining made of bemberg rayon,I use a 65 sharps needle -- I don't know whether that would be too small for your silk twill.
Be careful about topstitching thread and topstitching needles. The thicker threads can be hard to use, especially with some sewing machines. I have several types and brands of topstitching and the somewhat thinner upholstery thread, but I now prefer to use two strands of regular poly thread.
Topstitching needles differ from regular sharps needles in that they have a larger eye to accommodate thicker thread. If you use a single strand of thin poly thread, it doesn't feed through the larger eye properly.
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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.
Posted on: 12/18/09 6:36 PM ET
In reply to kellyhogaboom
Mettler is great thread, and the poly size 50 is preferable to the heavier weight cotton. Unless I am sewing very heavy fabric I usually stick to a size 12 needle. But test and see if it works well for you. If you have trouble, go up a size.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Posted on: 12/18/09 11:03 PM ET
Thank you, ladies. I have bookmarked this topic so I can go back and forth at the stages in my coat.
Oooh, two strands of thread for topstitching! I am very excited to try this.
Oooh, two strands of thread for topstitching! I am very excited to try this.
Posted on: 12/19/09 8:24 AM ET
In reply to kellyhogaboom
One advantage of using two strands of thread is that you can usually get a better color match than you can with the limited colors of topstitching or upholstery thread. When viewed from more than a few inches away, the two strands will look like one strand.
If you use two strands of threads for topstitching, thread your machine as you would for a twin needle. Then thread both strands through the eye of a topstitching needle. Don't use a regular needle because you need the larger eye so the thread will pass through smoothly and not get caught.
To keep your topstitching perfectly straight, go very slowly (one stitch per inch) and use a foot with a built in guide like the stitch in the ditch foot or quilter's quarter-inch foot. Amd don't forget to practice. Good luck.
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If you use two strands of threads for topstitching, thread your machine as you would for a twin needle. Then thread both strands through the eye of a topstitching needle. Don't use a regular needle because you need the larger eye so the thread will pass through smoothly and not get caught.
To keep your topstitching perfectly straight, go very slowly (one stitch per inch) and use a foot with a built in guide like the stitch in the ditch foot or quilter's quarter-inch foot. Amd don't forget to practice. Good luck.
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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.
Posted on: 12/19/09 9:51 AM ET
I have never been able to get a top-stitching needle to work. It ALWAYS shreds my thread. I don't know if it's just that my machine doesn't like them, a combo of the threads (was using the heavier guterman) or what.
I can top-stitch fine with a size 16 or 18 jeans needle, the eye is smaller and doesn't eat up my thread.
I have yet to try the two spools of thread.
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I can top-stitch fine with a size 16 or 18 jeans needle, the eye is smaller and doesn't eat up my thread.
I have yet to try the two spools of thread.
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