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Posted on: 5/23/10 6:05 PM ET
This top is still a work in progress. I haven’t yet hemmed the bottom or the sleeves because I needed a little advice first.
While I have been sewing for a while, I am fairly new to fitting my patterns. In the past, I would shorten pieces after I had sewn them, but, I avoided any complex fitting changes. Of course, years ago, with a new copy of “Vogue’s fitting book” in hand, I tried “adjusting” and ended up with both shredded fabric AND shredded patterns.
After that, when I picked up sewing again, I decide to work on more basic sewing skills.
Recently, I got a copy of Kwik Sew’s Easy Sewing and decided to try each of the basic garments. Of course, one of the major points in the book is that each of the pieces should be adjusted to the wearer. While the patterns tend to not have darts or be fitted by other means, using them has been a good first step toward fitting. (It’s way better than my earlier pattern shreds! LOL )
I am curious about how to measure the length of the arm and how long to make the sleeves. Is it just past the wrist bone? How do you know where to stop when measuring from the neck to shoulder? (I’m sure this pattern has a bit of a dropped shoulder, but, I’m probably narrow shouldered and it would be good to know this measurement.) I know that this pattern is not really “fitted” in the proper sense.
My husband is telling me that there is some bunching around the armhole. What causes this? Is there an adjustment that I can make or should I let it go for now? Is it the style of the pattern? I would love to hear any other ideas or tips as well. Thanks so much. I really appreciate the help.
Barb
Front
click here
Back
click here
Side
click here
-- Edited on 5/23/10 7:24 PM --
While I have been sewing for a while, I am fairly new to fitting my patterns. In the past, I would shorten pieces after I had sewn them, but, I avoided any complex fitting changes. Of course, years ago, with a new copy of “Vogue’s fitting book” in hand, I tried “adjusting” and ended up with both shredded fabric AND shredded patterns.
After that, when I picked up sewing again, I decide to work on more basic sewing skills.Recently, I got a copy of Kwik Sew’s Easy Sewing and decided to try each of the basic garments. Of course, one of the major points in the book is that each of the pieces should be adjusted to the wearer. While the patterns tend to not have darts or be fitted by other means, using them has been a good first step toward fitting. (It’s way better than my earlier pattern shreds! LOL )
I am curious about how to measure the length of the arm and how long to make the sleeves. Is it just past the wrist bone? How do you know where to stop when measuring from the neck to shoulder? (I’m sure this pattern has a bit of a dropped shoulder, but, I’m probably narrow shouldered and it would be good to know this measurement.) I know that this pattern is not really “fitted” in the proper sense.
My husband is telling me that there is some bunching around the armhole. What causes this? Is there an adjustment that I can make or should I let it go for now? Is it the style of the pattern? I would love to hear any other ideas or tips as well. Thanks so much. I really appreciate the help.
Barb
Front
click here
Back
click here
Side
click here
-- Edited on 5/23/10 7:24 PM --
Posted on: 5/23/10 7:08 PM ET
first of all you picture of your back is your front. you might want to correct that. I think you should adjust the shoulders they hang over the top of the shoulder. adjust them about 1" on each side or pinch to where they look nice and even on each side. This could help with the wrinkling on the backside of the arms.
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Do not be anxious about anything, but in everything, by prayer and petition, with thanksgiving, present your request to god. And
The peace of god, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus. Philippians 4:6-7
The peace of god, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus. Philippians 4:6-7
Posted on: 5/23/10 7:21 PM ET
In reply to cerulean
or a small shoulder pad
Posted on: 5/23/10 7:31 PM ET
Skae – Ok, I assume that I should shorten the length of the shoulder (between the neck and the shoulder). I suspected that might be a problem.
Sewtea – I probably want to try learning the shoulder adjustment. Shoulder pads do make things look better on me. It’s hard to not have the shoulder pads on everything syndrome. : )
Thanks so much.
I’m still a little curious about the measurements though.
Sewtea – I probably want to try learning the shoulder adjustment. Shoulder pads do make things look better on me. It’s hard to not have the shoulder pads on everything syndrome. : )
Thanks so much.
I’m still a little curious about the measurements though.
Posted on: 5/23/10 7:59 PM ET
You'll need to enlist the help of your husband for the measurements.
I'd like to post a little disclaimer before I give advice (not necessarily to you dear, to any other readers)- My clothes fit me very well. I'm not interested in someone telling me I'm wrong. There is no right or wrong in sewing. Right is if it fits, if it looks good, if it works for you and if it stays on.
For those measurements, I found it helpful to take off my shirt and mark where my shoulder begins and ends. It is too easy to be confused by your shirt seams. Mark a little dot at the very top of your shoulder, in the place that makes a little dent when you raise your arms.
Shoulder seams begin at the little curve where your neck meets the shoulder. This is where a necklace would sit. Measure straight along your shoulder from the "necklace" point to the dot you marked. That's your shoulder length.
Measure from the shoulder dot down around your bent elbow and to the wristbone for sleeve length. This is vital or else your sleeve will be too long or short. Too long is preferable because it can be more easily fixed.
Uhm... I do hope you're tracing off your patterns onto some other medium to work with them. In my experience, fitting with a paper pattern is wildly inaccurate and unwieldy. And you end up shredding the pattern to tatters in the process. Much better to have a pristine master copy.
Also, I wonder if some of those wrinkles are caused by needing to do a full bust adjustment?
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I'd like to post a little disclaimer before I give advice (not necessarily to you dear, to any other readers)- My clothes fit me very well. I'm not interested in someone telling me I'm wrong. There is no right or wrong in sewing. Right is if it fits, if it looks good, if it works for you and if it stays on.
For those measurements, I found it helpful to take off my shirt and mark where my shoulder begins and ends. It is too easy to be confused by your shirt seams. Mark a little dot at the very top of your shoulder, in the place that makes a little dent when you raise your arms.
Shoulder seams begin at the little curve where your neck meets the shoulder. This is where a necklace would sit. Measure straight along your shoulder from the "necklace" point to the dot you marked. That's your shoulder length.
Measure from the shoulder dot down around your bent elbow and to the wristbone for sleeve length. This is vital or else your sleeve will be too long or short. Too long is preferable because it can be more easily fixed.
Uhm... I do hope you're tracing off your patterns onto some other medium to work with them. In my experience, fitting with a paper pattern is wildly inaccurate and unwieldy. And you end up shredding the pattern to tatters in the process. Much better to have a pristine master copy.
Also, I wonder if some of those wrinkles are caused by needing to do a full bust adjustment?
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http://3hourspast.com- Vintage Style, Sewing, and Ethical Fashion
Posted on: 5/23/10 8:53 PM ET
In reply to cerulean
I think the tee fits quite well as a standard pattern tee. I'll bet tees you buy in the store have the same fit. The wrinkles around the shoulder and arm are there because the slope of your shoulders is different from the slope of the standard figure the pattern is drafted for. You can do a "sloping shoulder" alteration to your pattern to make the fit better for your shape. There is a brief description and line drawing of this pattern alteration on this page. (scroll down a bit on that page to see it)
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Liz
thefittinglife.blogspot.com
thefittinglife.blogspot.com
Posted on: 5/23/10 10:44 PM ET
Bellelass – Thank you. Your directions are fantastic!
And, yes, I am now a great believer in tracing patterns. While for most things, I use paper, I can see that this may be a good time to break out my Swedish Tracing Paper.
Sewliz – That’s a really nice link!
Yes, I’ve always had sloping shoulders, so it would make sense to do a shoulder adjustment. Should I try a sloping shoulder adjustment before trying a FBA?
Barb
And, yes, I am now a great believer in tracing patterns. While for most things, I use paper, I can see that this may be a good time to break out my Swedish Tracing Paper.
Sewliz – That’s a really nice link!
Yes, I’ve always had sloping shoulders, so it would make sense to do a shoulder adjustment. Should I try a sloping shoulder adjustment before trying a FBA?
Barb
Posted on: 5/23/10 11:51 PM ET
In reply to cerulean
You should always get the shoulder area to fit right before making any other adjustments. So yes, do it first, before the FBA.
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
Posted on: 5/24/10 9:03 AM ET
I will. Thanks, Goodworks!
Barb
Barb
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