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Moderated by Pyrose
Posted on: 6/29/10 11:55 PM ET
I did stitch out a couple small dragonflys and they turned out beautiful...
but tonights test run was riddled with problems. It was a hot air balloon design I purchased at urban threads. And I knew it wouldn't be perfect because I was stitching out on one of the camisoles (for a sleep top).
Anyway, I got through all 28161 stitches somehow...and there are parts where you can see only bobbin thread...and parts where you see both top and bobbin and parts that are absolutely perfect.
After about the 8th thread break hubby said that he thought I should lower my tension...it was worth a try so I lowered it from 00 to -2 and
I didn't get a single thread break after that...but that's when I got spots where the bobbin thread is showing lots.
Anyway, does anyone have any tips? I must sleep now...but maybe tomorrow I can post a picture. I did also use tearaway stabilizer...which was totally the wrong choice on a knit thing with 5% spandex. Not to mention I've never had good luck with that many stitches (it's kind of an open design...but some spots are far more dense than I had anticipated).
Thanks again for any advice.
BTW, I do love the machine and how it sews. I'll just have to get used to not have as much info on the screen at all time (would be nice to have stitch count and color). Looks like I can only do 1.
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but tonights test run was riddled with problems. It was a hot air balloon design I purchased at urban threads. And I knew it wouldn't be perfect because I was stitching out on one of the camisoles (for a sleep top).
Anyway, I got through all 28161 stitches somehow...and there are parts where you can see only bobbin thread...and parts where you see both top and bobbin and parts that are absolutely perfect.

After about the 8th thread break hubby said that he thought I should lower my tension...it was worth a try so I lowered it from 00 to -2 and
I didn't get a single thread break after that...but that's when I got spots where the bobbin thread is showing lots.
Anyway, does anyone have any tips? I must sleep now...but maybe tomorrow I can post a picture. I did also use tearaway stabilizer...which was totally the wrong choice on a knit thing with 5% spandex. Not to mention I've never had good luck with that many stitches (it's kind of an open design...but some spots are far more dense than I had anticipated).
Thanks again for any advice.
BTW, I do love the machine and how it sews. I'll just have to get used to not have as much info on the screen at all time (would be nice to have stitch count and color). Looks like I can only do 1.------
JillyBean
http://craftysupreme.etsy.com
http://craftysupreme.etsy.com
Posted on: 7/1/10 5:38 PM ET
It sounds like you might have a piece of thread stuck in your upper threading track. I had that happen more than once on my Babylock Esante and the thread was not accessible to me. I had to take the machine in to have it removed. It is often caused by removing the thread from the machine the wrong way during thread color changes.
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- Jan
I show people how to turn their sewing hobby into a business at sewingforcash.com
I show people how to turn their sewing hobby into a business at sewingforcash.com
Posted on: 7/2/10 5:18 AM ET
I had alot of thread breakage on my pfaff I alway checked needle and then made sure nothing caught in tension disks. I have been using the titanium organ needles on my brother I haven't had any breakage with that. I agree about the stabiliser. I think iron on stabiliser is recommended with knit, or sticky back to hold shape better.
Posted on: 7/2/10 7:39 AM ET
I know you were looking for machine help but just a quick tip that I used myself recently with regards to the finished project, if you have white bobbin threads showing through to the top, use a sharpie in the appropriate the color to fix/blend in. You won't even notice.
Posted on: 7/2/10 8:23 AM ET
For light weight knits I like no show mesh, fusible if available. It dosn't show to the right side, dosn't change the feel of material and if you are doing a heavier stitch count design put another piece at 90 angle.
Are you using bobbin thread for machine embroidery recomended by the company, after a thread break I also like to check the bobbin to make sure it's seated in the bobbincase properly, try a different brand of thread, black colors tend to break more because they use a lot of dye.
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Are you using bobbin thread for machine embroidery recomended by the company, after a thread break I also like to check the bobbin to make sure it's seated in the bobbincase properly, try a different brand of thread, black colors tend to break more because they use a lot of dye.
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Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.
Posted on: 7/6/10 8:48 PM ET
In reply to Pam C
Pam, that's a great idea!!! I'll have to buy myself some sharpies.
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JillyBean
http://craftysupreme.etsy.com
http://craftysupreme.etsy.com
Posted on: 7/6/10 8:49 PM ET
In reply to Just another Jan
Just another Jan, how *should* you remove the thread?
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JillyBean
http://craftysupreme.etsy.com
http://craftysupreme.etsy.com
Posted on: 7/7/10 2:53 AM ET
In reply to JillyBean333
Quote: JillyBean333
Just another Jan, how *should* you remove the thread?
Just another Jan, how *should* you remove the thread?
The sewing tech has to open the machine up to get to any thread that is stuck in the machine. Unfortunately it is not a user friendly machine when it comes to problems of an internal nature. The thread tension is also automatically set when the thread runs through the machine from the top to the needle. If you remove the thread (at color changes) the wrong way, it resets the tension setting and throws the machine off. You have to cut the thread at the spool and then pull the remaining thread through the machine from the needle end. If you pull the spool off of the machine and pull the thread out that way, that is when bits of thread gets stuck in the machine and cause all kinds of tension problems.
-- Edited on 7/7/10 2:55 AM --
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- Jan
I show people how to turn their sewing hobby into a business at sewingforcash.com
I show people how to turn their sewing hobby into a business at sewingforcash.com
Posted on: 7/23/10 9:42 AM ET
In reply to JillyBean333
I don't see wheren you were answered on this. My dealer taught me to clip the thread at the spool and then pull the thread out from the needle. This is so the thread is ALWAYS going in one direction; when you thread the machine and when you change the thread. You can get thread lint and pieces in the tension area if you pull it back from the spool. I know this seems a waste of thread but it is best for the machine.
Many have suggested using a dollar bill or dental floss in the tension areas to clean them. Vacuum out under the bobbin casing and in the bobbin casing often. Sometimes the teenest, tineest piece of thread can screw things up. Ask me how I know.
Always use bobbin thread in the bobbin (I have black and white) unless you are doing fsl (free standing lace), then you want to match the bobbin with the spool (or projects where the underside will show). Regular sewing thread is not a good idea as the content is not good for embroidery. Joann's sells bobbin thread, just read on the spool.
Change your needle around 8 hours of embroidery/sewing, or if you start to have problems. Warning; those long projects you need to vacuum the machine in the bobbin area about 1/2 way through. We sometimes forget just how long the project is and that normally we think of a 'project' as one sitting at the machine. Your machine, bobbin, and needle will tell you differently by showing the bobbin thread, missed stitches, etc.
I hope this helps.
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Many have suggested using a dollar bill or dental floss in the tension areas to clean them. Vacuum out under the bobbin casing and in the bobbin casing often. Sometimes the teenest, tineest piece of thread can screw things up. Ask me how I know.
Always use bobbin thread in the bobbin (I have black and white) unless you are doing fsl (free standing lace), then you want to match the bobbin with the spool (or projects where the underside will show). Regular sewing thread is not a good idea as the content is not good for embroidery. Joann's sells bobbin thread, just read on the spool.
Change your needle around 8 hours of embroidery/sewing, or if you start to have problems. Warning; those long projects you need to vacuum the machine in the bobbin area about 1/2 way through. We sometimes forget just how long the project is and that normally we think of a 'project' as one sitting at the machine. Your machine, bobbin, and needle will tell you differently by showing the bobbin thread, missed stitches, etc.
I hope this helps.
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Karen
Posted on: 7/26/10 8:09 PM ET
In reply to KarenTeel
Thanks everyone, I haven't tried to embroider since writing this (it is summer), but hopefully I'll get a chance this week while the kids are in day camp.
I will start to pull the thread out through the needle then. Does that go for all machines? Or just the brother/babylocks?
Jill
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I will start to pull the thread out through the needle then. Does that go for all machines? Or just the brother/babylocks?
Jill
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JillyBean
http://craftysupreme.etsy.com
http://craftysupreme.etsy.com
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