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Member since 1/6/06
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Posted on: 7/28/10 11:13 AM ET
I am working out the pattern for the zip front hooded jacket which is in Kwik Sew’s Easy Sewing book. Basically, they have taken their t-shirt pattern, which is a little oversize and added a hood and then a zipper down the front. But then I realize that I really prefer it when jackets have pockets in them.

I am thinking that it would look better if I use a side inseam pocket. Kangaroo pockets and other patch pockets usually plump me up. I’ve looked around and I don’t have any jacket patterns with a side inseam pocket. Is there a way to do this? What would I check for? Kwik Sew has a pants pocket pattern, but, as I remember a jacket pocket would be a little different shape.

I’ve already made the t-shirt from the book (the base pattern). I was thinking that I can mark the placement for the pocket with a blue sewing marker by putting my hands on my hips. What else should I check? Thanks so much.


Barb S.
  
Member since 3/16/07
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Posted on: 7/28/10 7:50 PM ET
In reply to cerulean
You can do this fairly easily, but the pocket opening on the side seam will probably seem a little uncomfortable to you. That said, what's most important is the position of your elbow when your hand is all the way in the pocket, at rest. So a side seam pocket will only feel strange when you put your hand in your pocket. To be comfortable you probably need the inner edge to be very close to the zipper opening.

The shape of the pocket ends up being determined by where it can fit around the zipper and bottom hem. I would just make sure the pocket bag pieces are a little oversized from that point of view, then trim the pocket when you have the front zipper in and know where the hem will be. You can just lay it out, mark those lines, then trim it and stitch with a 3/8 in. SA (for a sweatshirt knit)

It really should be a single welt pocket with the pocket mouth about 6 1/2 or 7 in long. The bottom of the opening should be a couple of inches in front of the side seam and 2 or 3 above the hem, and the top of the opening should be maybe 4 inches from the side seam.

The easiest thing is to get a pattern that has a pocket (opening) like you like, then copy those pattern pieces and instructions.
  
Member since 1/6/06
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Posted on: 7/29/10 1:57 PM ET
Thanks, Tom. You really helped me rethink how I want to do this project. I appreciate the advice.

At this point, I am having trouble finding any jacket pockets similar to the type you are describing amongst my patterns. I am going to be that a dozen will appear after I get a reasonable muslin together.:winkgrin:

I found a Claire Shaeffer book that mentions the sort of welt pocket that you are describing. At first, I didn't want the traditional "kangaroo" sweatshirt pocket, but, it is really one of the easiest things that I could do. I could trace a jacket that I own to make that. I will probably try both a welt and the kangaroo pocket.

Barb Solomon
  
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