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Member since 1/26/10
Posts: 150
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Posted on: 10/2/10 2:46 AM ET
I'm glad my sewing machine is too heavy to pick up, or I might throw it out the window sometimes.

I'm trying to set top and bottom tension for some "heavy" Dual Duty XP thread I just bought for topstitching. I'm using size 16/100 needles. No matter what combination of tensions I use, the top thread looks perfect, and the bottom is a mess. This is as good as I'm able to get the bottom to look while sewing denim, so far:



What should I do? The problem gets worse the shorter I set my stitch length. Will a needle one size up really fix such a messed up stitch? I've heard of people using smaller thread on the bottom, but I really don't want to have to do that unless there's no alternative. Thanks for any help.


-- Edited on 10/2/10 2:47 AM --
  
Member since 6/23/04
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Posted on: 10/2/10 4:18 AM ET
In reply to Teagarden
Firstly you will get a much more balanced stitch if you use ordinary sewing thread in the bobbin so I strongly recommend this, except if both sides of the stitching will show. I know you don't want to, but it does give much better results and will save your sewing machine a trip out the window.

If you simply must use heavy thread in both the needle and bobbin, you must first adjust the tension on your bobbin, reducing the tension. This is a must! Heavier thread, different tension. I actually have a second bobbin case dedicated to topstitching as I don't want to mess with the tension on my regular bobbin. You will need to adjust the top tension to suit also.

Next a size #110 needle is a must!

Finally when testing, test sew on at least four layers of fabric as this is how many layers you will be topstitching through in most cases. Two layers really isn't a test sample. You will get a better tension when stitching through more layers. HTH

-- Edited on 10/2/10 4:22 AM --
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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
  
Member since 1/26/10
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Posted on: 10/2/10 9:14 AM ET
In reply to Sew4Fun
Thank you, Sew4Fun. I'll order some 18/110's right away. Won't using ordinary thread in the bobbin weaken the stitch at all? I'm picturing friction between big and little thread over time, and little thread losing...

I'm almost sure I have bobbin tension set correctly. The drop test method works for everything else, anyway. Adjusting the top tension improves things a little bit but only to the extent shown in the picture. In case anyone has trouble seeing it, I'm getting big loops of top thread sticking out of the bottom, and the bottom thread just sits on the surface of the fabric.

I'd like to figure this out, just because I hate to let the machine defeat me and I want to know I have the capability to make something that's just as nice when seen from inside.

Edit: It's weird...I did get a few normal stitches using this same needle and tension combination, but it was when I threaded the machine incorrectly as an experiment. Unfortunately, the thread won't stay where it's supposed to be in the guides for more than a few stitches when I do it that way.

-- Edited on 10/2/10 9:19 AM --
  
Member since 1/26/10
Posts: 150
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Posted on: 10/2/10 10:51 AM ET
I've now improved this slightly by nearly maxing out the upper thread tension (???), but most of the loops are still appearing on the bottom surface instead of forming between the layers, and I get the same result using ordinary thread in the bobbin. I'm lost.
  
Member since 4/3/10
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Posted on: 10/2/10 11:12 AM ET
I've had best luck with a topstitching needle. They have a very big eye and there isn't so much pull on the thread. I use heavy thread on top only, regular weight thread on bottom.
-- Edited on 10/2/10 11:17 AM --
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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson
  
Member since 4/20/09
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Posted on: 10/2/10 11:56 AM ET
I had the exact same problem when I first tried to top-stitch. The advice I got was to ditch the top-stitching thread (gutermann) and try the same companies upholstery-weight thread. This worked - and looked no different from rtw top-stitching. Some (home) machines just can't handle the super-thick top-stitching thread.
  
Member since 7/19/03
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Posted on: 10/2/10 12:13 PM ET
Yes, you are right, the drop test works for standard thread. But this is way heavier and you can see in your sample that you need looser tension on the bottom and tighter tension on the top (as compared to what you've shown us in your sample.) Or if you don't want to change your bobbin tension, then go with the standard thread and test it. I'd love to see the samples this way.

Will your topstitching be on only two layers? If not, show us a test of it on 4 layers (or whatever.)
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
  
Member since 1/26/10
Posts: 150
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Posted on: 10/3/10 0:13 AM ET
In reply to goodworks1
Okay, I'll do a few tests on 4 layers in a little bit and upload them, just for you to see. So far, I've tried turning my top tension almost to maximum (which shouldn't be required for larger thread), while at the same time using almost no tension at all on the bottom. When the bottom thread doesn't get bunched up under the plate because of the lack of tension, the result is exactly the same.

Ordinary thread on the bottom...also the same.

Softer, spongier fabric...the same.

8 layers of soft, spongy fabric = success. That doesn't help me, unfortunately. Is this thread maybe not meant to be used in sewing machines or something? It's Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP Heavy.
  
Member since 1/26/10
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Posted on: 10/3/10 1:32 AM ET
Nevermind, I've solved the problem. Now I feel silly.

Using the heavy thread in both bobbin and needle, I set the bobbin tension to where I had it previously, using the drop test. Still not working. Then, I screwed the top tension dial way to the right, until it became tighter to turn. I am now getting a perfect stitch with this heavy thread, regardless of fabric or number of layers.

I think the problem was that my machine came from the factory with the top tension loosened and unadjusted. I never realized it wasn't supposed to be this way before, because I was using lighter thread and somehow still getting a very nice stitch. So much for factory settings. It's my first sewing machine, and I kept wondering why that dial seemed so loose.

-- Edited on 10/3/10 2:06 AM --
  
Member since 7/19/03
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Posted on: 10/3/10 6:01 PM ET
In reply to Teagarden
Quote: Teagarden
Nevermind, I've solved the problem.



Hey, whatever solves the problem is the right thing!

Good job!
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
  
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