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Can it be done, or do I need to pick out my hem? (Moderated by Deepika)
Posted on: 10/26/10 4:44 PM ET
Does anyone know if you can somehow knock the sheen off of polyester thread once it is already sewn into a garment?
I just finished my first double-needle hem on my first knit dress (well, first after 3 muslins). I used hand-wound Wooly Nylon in the bobbin and Mettler Metrosene 100% poly for the topstitching. It turned out perfectly except -- I noticed that when direct light hits the two rows of topstitching the thread shines, and looks several shades lighter than my chocolate-brown fabric. It looks tacky. Without the sheen the thread is a perfect match (though I wish I'd gone a shade darker).
Is there any remedy for this, or am I stuck picking out the hem and doing it over with new thread? If I do it over, what sort of thread would be best?
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I just finished my first double-needle hem on my first knit dress (well, first after 3 muslins). I used hand-wound Wooly Nylon in the bobbin and Mettler Metrosene 100% poly for the topstitching. It turned out perfectly except -- I noticed that when direct light hits the two rows of topstitching the thread shines, and looks several shades lighter than my chocolate-brown fabric. It looks tacky. Without the sheen the thread is a perfect match (though I wish I'd gone a shade darker).
Is there any remedy for this, or am I stuck picking out the hem and doing it over with new thread? If I do it over, what sort of thread would be best?
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marjoriekh
Posted on: 10/26/10 5:36 PM ET
I doubt very much that there is any way to diminish the sheen of polyester thread.
On the other hand, are you sure that you're not being too critical? I've used Mettler Metrosene 100% poly hundreds of time for topstitching and hemming and don't think that it has a particularly prominent sheen, even in direct light.
Is it possible that it's the shade (tone) of the thread, rather than the sheen, that displeases you? I was always taught to choose thread in 1/2 to 1 shade darker than the fabric. And of course, when choosing your shade of thread, unwind a few inches of the thread and test only that single strand of thread against your fashion fabric. HTH, Lily
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On the other hand, are you sure that you're not being too critical? I've used Mettler Metrosene 100% poly hundreds of time for topstitching and hemming and don't think that it has a particularly prominent sheen, even in direct light.
Is it possible that it's the shade (tone) of the thread, rather than the sheen, that displeases you? I was always taught to choose thread in 1/2 to 1 shade darker than the fabric. And of course, when choosing your shade of thread, unwind a few inches of the thread and test only that single strand of thread against your fashion fabric. HTH, Lily
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Lily
Posted on: 10/26/10 8:02 PM ET
Thanks, Lily. I think you're right on both counts, that I'm being overly (or at least very, very) critical, and that darker thread would have been more appropriate. I suspect that with a darker shade I would not really be noticing the sheen. I've used Mettler Metrosene for years also, and never had this problem, though this is the first hem I've done with visible stitching.
This was the last step on a project I've labored (probably too much) over with good results, so it rankles not to get the hem right. When I bought this fabric, I was in a little independent fabric store, and the saleswoman cutting my fabric chose this thread as being *just right,* and it is an exact match. (I have since come across the rule you mention about choosing darker thread.) I was planning to hem by hand at the time, so I figured it would be OK.
Anyway - I'm going to let this dress hang in the closet for a few days. If it still bothers me then, I'll pick out the hem and go get some darker thread. That'll teach me.
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This was the last step on a project I've labored (probably too much) over with good results, so it rankles not to get the hem right. When I bought this fabric, I was in a little independent fabric store, and the saleswoman cutting my fabric chose this thread as being *just right,* and it is an exact match. (I have since come across the rule you mention about choosing darker thread.) I was planning to hem by hand at the time, so I figured it would be OK.
Anyway - I'm going to let this dress hang in the closet for a few days. If it still bothers me then, I'll pick out the hem and go get some darker thread. That'll teach me.
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marjoriekh
Posted on: 10/26/10 9:08 PM ET
It sounds as if you've labored a lot over this project and I was going to suggest you do what you plan to do--put it in a closet for a few days. I have a Magic Box/shelf that when I've made something, before I finish ironing it and hanging it in my closet, if I don't like it, I put it in my Magic Box for a while. Getting away from it helps me alot!
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Posted on: 10/26/10 11:08 PM ET
I am always giving my husband and children this advice -- sleep on something, or put it aside for awhile -- but I often forget to take it myself.
Yesterday I was disappointed but resigned about how the dress fit. Today I put it on and thought it fit pretty well!
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Yesterday I was disappointed but resigned about how the dress fit. Today I put it on and thought it fit pretty well!
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marjoriekh
Posted on: 10/26/10 11:47 PM ET
In reply to marjoriekh
Marjorie,
Don't forget that you can post a photo, and we (PR members) will give an honest view of whether the thread looks too prominent and whether you need to re-do the hem.
You know, you mentioned that you rarely put a stitched, visible hem in your garments. It may be that you're just not used to the look of the visible hem and that to others, it looks perfectly lovely. --Lily
-- Edited on 10/26/10 11:48 PM --
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Don't forget that you can post a photo, and we (PR members) will give an honest view of whether the thread looks too prominent and whether you need to re-do the hem.
You know, you mentioned that you rarely put a stitched, visible hem in your garments. It may be that you're just not used to the look of the visible hem and that to others, it looks perfectly lovely. --Lily
-- Edited on 10/26/10 11:48 PM --
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Lily
Posted on: 10/31/10 7:48 PM ET
OK -- I'm posting a photo now, but only after deciding that, yes, I needed to re-hem.
Five days in the closet and I still didn't want to wear it. This photo shows the difference between the right color thread (or close enough) on the sleeve hem, top, and the wrong color thread (too light) on the skirt hem, bottom:
Double needle hem comparison
All in all, picking out both sleeve hems and the skirt hem and re-sewing took less than an hour (and I'm slow). Well worth it.
I also took the opportunity to loosen up the bobbin tension a bit. I'm happy now -- I'm wearing the dress as I type, in fact, between doorbell rings (it's Halloween).
Thanks for your help and encouragement!
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Five days in the closet and I still didn't want to wear it. This photo shows the difference between the right color thread (or close enough) on the sleeve hem, top, and the wrong color thread (too light) on the skirt hem, bottom:
Double needle hem comparison
All in all, picking out both sleeve hems and the skirt hem and re-sewing took less than an hour (and I'm slow). Well worth it.
I also took the opportunity to loosen up the bobbin tension a bit. I'm happy now -- I'm wearing the dress as I type, in fact, between doorbell rings (it's Halloween).
Thanks for your help and encouragement!
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marjoriekh
Posted on: 10/31/10 8:50 PM ET
In reply to marjoriekh
if your like me you probably labour over thread selection when you have your fabric.I wouldn't worry too much,a few washes and a few line dries will probably take your fashion fabric down a shade
Ignore the above comment
Just read the last post,your comparison looks better.
-- Edited on 10/31/10 8:54 PM --

Ignore the above comment
Just read the last post,your comparison looks better.
-- Edited on 10/31/10 8:54 PM --
Posted on: 11/1/10 8:30 AM ET
Well, I agree that the darker looks better, but I don't know that the lighter looks so bad as to redo it for the difference. Your hem is really nice.
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