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Member since 2/7/04
Posts: 568
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Posted on: 1/6/05 1:26 PM ET
I think I need a full bust adjustment across the back on some of my more fiytted patterns and am wondering how you do this? my bust is only a bit fuller than on the commercial patterns and for example I do not need full bust adjectment on the front. However, my back has a curve ( I am not very straight postured) and my jackets are usually very fitted, so I do need to have some alteration made to the back si it still is fitted but has a bit more room in the bust area (in the back). I know I can bet out the side seam but I think there migt be a better , however more complicated way to do so.
For illustration, look at this picPlaid Jacket Back and Front
It seems that a bit more width is needed in the back but the front I feelis ok for me.
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Member since 3/8/04
Posts: 378
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Posted on: 1/6/05 5:49 PM ET
Eli,

Looking at your photo and the jacket design, it looks like a princess seam with shoulder darts. The fit in the shoulders and high back looks really good - I think the darts are adequate for whatever roundess you have in that area. The only small folds are right in the underarm area, and I think these are a result of your jacket being a bit snugger than the design, so some of the ease that allows things to hang smoothly is eliminated. If you have the jacket unbuttoned, does this problem still occur? You may need to add 1/2" or so just on the back side seam.

I'm worried that any additional fitting in the upper back to remove fabric would make your jacket too tight and binding there - the fit now looks just about perfect!
-- Edited on 1/6/05 6:51 PM --
  
Member since 2/7/04
Posts: 568
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Posted on: 1/6/05 6:00 PM ET
when unbuttoned it is ok. I was thinking either about what you suggested or about lowering about 3/8" the underarm.
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Member since 10/5/02
Posts: 2292
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Posted on: 1/6/05 11:38 PM ET
I wouldnt add to the length of the armhole, but more width to the back. You need ease, all the ease is taken up with your larger back shape.
  
Member since 1/28/03
Posts: 1979
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Posted on: 1/7/05 3:06 AM ET
In reply to Eli
I agree with Georgene, you need ease at the back part .You can add some wide at the center backseam starting from the neck till the armhole point, or/and you can redraw the back armhole and add some wide there too.You need ease at the back part .
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Member since 8/2/02
Posts: 2006
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Posted on: 1/10/05 11:04 AM ET
In reply to Eli
Hi Eli - I just recalled an easy back ease adjustment from a Kenneth King article in Threads (you'll need an assistant:)

Make up a muslin, and while you have the jacket on, slash the fabric horizontally all the way across the back at the point where you need the ease. Fill in the slash with a pinned or basted piece of muslin adjusted for the amount of ease to you need to add. This piece can be pinned/basted to the top of the muslin.

Then use the adjusted muslin to as your pattern piece.

Kenneth even recommends doing a fresh muslin from the adjusted original, but you may not need to do that since you already know this pattern really well.

This method makes sense to me because all it does is add vertical ease to the back and yet the armsyce openings remain the same.

Phyllis

-- Edited on 1/10/05 12:05 PM --
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Member since 11/30/03
Posts: 121
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Posted on: 1/13/05 4:51 PM ET
My guide for this would be my favorite fitting book, Fit For Real People by Palmer & Alto. This is a common alteration, and is well - addressed in this book, so I wouldn't want to break copyright and type it in here. Remember though, that though you add at the back, you don't want to make the neck bigger - or you'll look like you're lost, and homemade-heaven forbid!
What they say is to have a center back seam (though adding at center back and center front is a no-no), to then shape it in at the neck - OR shoulder darts...
Anyway - I follow the book and it always works.
Londa
-- Edited on 1/13/05 5:51 PM --
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