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Moderated by Sharon1952, EleanorSews
Posted on: 11/22/10 9:33 AM ET
Those of you that free-motion quilt: can you put light colored thread in the top, dark colored thread in the bobbin, then FMQ on a quilt with a light top and a dark backing and NOT have the dark thread show up on the light top, or the light thread show up on the dark backing? Both threads are the same weight.
I have been playing and playing with this on my Janome 6600, and in frustration even tried it on my Singer 301, and cannot make it work. When I have a quilt top and backing which are that far apart in color, I end up using monofilament in the bobbin and I really would prefer to use dark thread.
I am using the "special" fmq bobbin case, and have adjusted the top tension in tiny, tiny increments for 30 minutes and could never make it work.
Does anyone do this on their machine, and if so what kind of machine?
-Tina in Sowal
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I have been playing and playing with this on my Janome 6600, and in frustration even tried it on my Singer 301, and cannot make it work. When I have a quilt top and backing which are that far apart in color, I end up using monofilament in the bobbin and I really would prefer to use dark thread.
I am using the "special" fmq bobbin case, and have adjusted the top tension in tiny, tiny increments for 30 minutes and could never make it work.
Does anyone do this on their machine, and if so what kind of machine?
-Tina in Sowal
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Tina in STA
Bernina B710
Singer 301a
Singer 221 Featherweight
Bernina B710
Singer 301a
Singer 221 Featherweight
Posted on: 11/22/10 10:03 AM ET
I did this not long ago and the only way I could make it work was to adjust the bobbin case screw. It took quite a bit of testing but it finally worked. Then I kept that case for that kind of work only, and bought another case for regular FMQ. I know that the bobbin case tension seem extremely loose, but the stitches looked perfect so I didn't worry about it.
Posted on: 11/22/10 11:27 AM ET
It's just a matter of patience and working both the upper and lower tensions to get it right. Good idea to try on both machines.
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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com
If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
Posted on: 11/22/10 11:27 AM ET
In reply to SoWalQuilter
FWIW - I attended a class with Robbie Eklow when I was at the Int'l Quilt Festival in Houston a few weeks ago. She's an award winning quilter: her site.
In class, she said you will always see the bobbin thread on top so she matches the bobbin thread to her quilt top. She also changes colors a lot. Her quilting on the back will be in all kinds of colors. She said she likes that b/c it adds interest - and she was right.
Another thing I'll do is just match the top quilting thread and the bottom. I'm just finishing up a quilt (the first in a LONG time) and I used a variegated yellow on top and on the bottom. The quilt top is yellow and white, the back is squares of various colors. Looking good so far. Yes, the quilting is basically invisible on the yellow/orange square on the back but the texture is still there and the quilting stands out nicely on the blue squares.
JEF
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In class, she said you will always see the bobbin thread on top so she matches the bobbin thread to her quilt top. She also changes colors a lot. Her quilting on the back will be in all kinds of colors. She said she likes that b/c it adds interest - and she was right.
Another thing I'll do is just match the top quilting thread and the bottom. I'm just finishing up a quilt (the first in a LONG time) and I used a variegated yellow on top and on the bottom. The quilt top is yellow and white, the back is squares of various colors. Looking good so far. Yes, the quilting is basically invisible on the yellow/orange square on the back but the texture is still there and the quilting stands out nicely on the blue squares.
JEF
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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln
Posted on: 11/22/10 12:18 PM ET
I also match the top and bottom thread just for the reason that I don't want to be hassled by the bobbin thread showing in the top. If I want my FMQ designs to really show I will use a darker thread... but honestly I like quilting to stand on its own without having to use bright colors. I have an extra bobbin case which I use for quilting, and I do not mind changing the tension on it. I often need to make adjustments because I use different thread brands. Each one behaves slightly differently, some threads are harder to balance than others, even threads of different bands in the same weight.
This might seem obsessive. but I keep a geologist loop in my sewing room so I can look at stitch balance more closely. I was doing some machine applique recently and really wanted to be sure the stitch was right on. I matched the bottom thread with the background fabric, the top thread matched the applique. The idea is the same. Perhaps match the bottom thread with a universal color that would blend with the top fabric.
Another note about quilting, depending on the needle size and thread weight, thicker threads tend to show especially if the bottom thread is the same weight as the top. I often use a lighter weight in the bottom, IE 40wt top, 50wt bottom or even 60 weight in the bobbin. IF you have to use a larger needle because of the top thread... say you are quilting with a size 16 or 18 needle, what allows the bobbin thread to show, is the large hole being made by the needle. Use the smallest needle possible for quilting so the hole is smaller. (I always test test test to make sure the thread doesn't shred because of the needle). If the needle size is large, it initially may show more dramatically at first but eventually the fabric should relax around the thread and the hole left by the needle. Still I test. I like using Topstitch needles for quilting because they have a larger eye and the grove that can accommodate slightly heavier thread weights without having to increase the size of the needle too much. I have never had the need to use anything larger than a 14. I also stay away from super heavy threads like Sulk 12wt or 30wt. I just don't like the look.
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This might seem obsessive. but I keep a geologist loop in my sewing room so I can look at stitch balance more closely. I was doing some machine applique recently and really wanted to be sure the stitch was right on. I matched the bottom thread with the background fabric, the top thread matched the applique. The idea is the same. Perhaps match the bottom thread with a universal color that would blend with the top fabric.
Another note about quilting, depending on the needle size and thread weight, thicker threads tend to show especially if the bottom thread is the same weight as the top. I often use a lighter weight in the bottom, IE 40wt top, 50wt bottom or even 60 weight in the bobbin. IF you have to use a larger needle because of the top thread... say you are quilting with a size 16 or 18 needle, what allows the bobbin thread to show, is the large hole being made by the needle. Use the smallest needle possible for quilting so the hole is smaller. (I always test test test to make sure the thread doesn't shred because of the needle). If the needle size is large, it initially may show more dramatically at first but eventually the fabric should relax around the thread and the hole left by the needle. Still I test. I like using Topstitch needles for quilting because they have a larger eye and the grove that can accommodate slightly heavier thread weights without having to increase the size of the needle too much. I have never had the need to use anything larger than a 14. I also stay away from super heavy threads like Sulk 12wt or 30wt. I just don't like the look.
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Janome MC6700 Bernina Q16Plus Bernina 240 Juki MO735 Singer 201-2 Singer 221-1
Posted on: 11/22/10 1:06 PM ET
Clear onofiliment thread may (or may not) be a solution, depending on how appropriate plastic thread is for your project. On occasion I've used it for hemming with very good, practically invisible results.
Posted on: 11/22/10 3:04 PM ET
In reply to Soolip
Monofiliment is a good suggestion but winding it onto a plastic bobbin is problematic. For some reason the monofilament can crush the core of the bobbin. I think because it can be wound so tightly....much more tightly than regular thread. 
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Janome MC6700 Bernina Q16Plus Bernina 240 Juki MO735 Singer 201-2 Singer 221-1
Posted on: 11/22/10 3:12 PM ET
I like bottom line thread by Superior when I am FMQ. It is very thin, so I can match the quilt back, and it doesn't show on the top. It it almost like using clear monofilament thread.
Posted on: 11/22/10 4:44 PM ET
Tina,
I have a Gammill quilting machine and I either match the top and bobbin thread or use threads that are close in value. Unless you've got a super highloft batting it's difficult to not have pokies / highly technical term
Remember that if you were hand quilting you would have the same color thread on the top and the bottom.
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I have a Gammill quilting machine and I either match the top and bobbin thread or use threads that are close in value. Unless you've got a super highloft batting it's difficult to not have pokies / highly technical term
Remember that if you were hand quilting you would have the same color thread on the top and the bottom. ------
Bernina 475, Pfaff 7550, Pfaff 1171, Janome HD9
Posted on: 11/23/10 6:20 PM ET
If you're using a natural fiber batting, can you make a 12" sandwich with the quilters cotton, do some practice FMQ with the threads you want to use (serge or finish the edges) , then toss it in the washer & dryer to see how it turns out? Many times the puckering that results as a cotton batt shrinks will camouflage that small dot of bobbin thread. It is difficult for the bobbin thread to not show when it's another color, especially if the batting is really thin.
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iPad's auto-correct is my enema.
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