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Member since 6/9/09
Posts: 334
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Posted on: 12/3/10 3:16 PM ET
I'm making a mens toggle coat out of medium weight wool interlined with a lighter-weight wool plaid. I'll need to finish the inside seams with bias tape. Is the readily-available Wright's double-folded bias tape what I should be using?

I'm using good quality wool coating for this project. Is there something better/classier/sturdier than Wrights I should try?

Thanks!
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Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 12/3/10 5:02 PM ET
In reply to Peter in NYC
Hi Peter,

Personally, I think I would use something like a silk twill and make my own bias tape. The cotton will be stiff and you may find it hard to bind thicker coat edges with bias.
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Member since 6/9/09
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Posted on: 12/3/10 6:06 PM ET
Thanks!

I wonder if you can buy higher quality commercially made bias tape. I don't think I'm up to making my own.
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Member since 2/28/05
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Posted on: 12/3/10 6:23 PM ET
Go for it -- buy a Clover bias tape maker in the size you need (less than $5), cut the fabric and start pressing.....you will never use the packaged stuff again. Try it Peter, you can do it.

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Member since 6/9/09
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Posted on: 12/3/10 6:28 PM ET
And the best fabric would be silk twill? Anything else? I have very nice black cotton sateen, for example.
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Member since 8/11/07
Posts: 33
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Posted on: 12/3/10 6:45 PM ET
In reply to Peter in NYC
You could use a hong kong finish--it's way easier than ready-made bias binding and looks really neat. Just cut 1-1/2 inch wide bias strips of your binding fabric. Old silk ties work great and they're already on the bias, so you just cut your strips. You can really use just about anything. If your finished product is washable, just test to make sure the fabric for the strips is also washable.

When you get ready to finish the edges, put one cut edge of the bias strip on what will be the top of the fashion fabric when you press the garment seams open. Sew about a 3/8 inch seam. Fold the rest of your strip over the edge. I like to press it flat before I wrap it around to the back side. Don't do anything to the edge you are folding around to the back. It won't ravel, as it's cut on the bias. Then stitch in the seamline to hold the back edge in place. This will look similar to bias binding, but it's really easier and goes really fast.

I know this sounds really confusing. If you haven't gotten rid of all your sewing books in your mad clutter-busting this week, I'm sure you will find very good instructions and pictures to explain this much better than I have. I haven't checked but there's probably a good YouTube video. Hope this helps.

Linda in TN
  
Member since 9/29/02
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Re: Wrights bias tape (posted on 12/3/10 6:46 PM ET)
Unless it's very lightweight, the cotton sateen may also be too heavy for your seams. Perhaps a visit to a thrift or resale shop will yield enough similar silk ties to cut to use? They are already on the bias and might add a little zip to the inside of the coat.
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Patti

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Member since 4/3/10
Posts: 1598
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Posted on: 12/3/10 6:48 PM ET
I second the vote for Hong Kong finish. Wouldn't you LOVE to have the inside of your coat look like this?

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
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Member since 4/20/09
Posts: 466
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Re: Wrights bias tape (posted on 12/3/10 6:50 PM ET)
Check out Atlanta Thread and Supply or Sew True for sewing materials like the pros use.

I really like Hug Snug (Sew True) although the one that ATS carries is equally good and about the same price.

The rolls are 100 yards, so fair warning. But when you've bound every seam, made a mistake here and there, and are using a standard color (that need not match if it is under the lining, and yes, I do bind coat seams under the linings, too), you'll be shocked at the amount of those little packets of seam binding that you'll go through.

This is real seam binding, not bias tape. So, if you are looking for a bias tape to bind the seams, then by all means, get one of those Clover make it yourself gizmos, and have at it. The device works a treat and you'll also love those results.

Good luck, and keep us posted.
  
Member since 9/22/05
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Posted on: 12/3/10 7:10 PM ET
If you'd like to try the Hong Kong finish here's a link to a tutorial Nancywin posted a while back.

Nancywin's Hong Kong finish tutorial
  
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