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12 
Member since 2/23/06
Posts: 6
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Posted on: 3/3/11 9:33 AM ET
I have been frantically searching for the proper machine to help me with my work. I've scoured the boards and looked over reviews and finally thought.... well, why don't I just ask??

Basically, I need to encase elastic in fabric. It's often a stretch velvet or some kind of decorative actionwear fabric. I'm pretty sure I need a coverstitch machine, since I want the raw edge of the fabric to be covered in order to look professional.

In the end, there would be no raw edges showing, none of the elastic. Which is different from when you attach say an elastic waistband onto a garment.

I can do a tube, turn it right side out, and insert the elastic in it, then sew it down. I would like to reduce the steps in that process, and thought a coverstitch machine would do it sort of all at once. (plus the turning of the tube tends to want to sort of mangle the stretch velvet)

The main issue I've been having is that as soon as the elastic is sewn, it starts to take on a butterfly edge. I assumed this was because of using a lockstitch machine, or an overcast stitch I have on my babylock. My hope is that the stretchiness of the coverstitch stitches will keep that from happening. Will it?

I've been sort of thinking of either the juki mo-735, or the Janome coverpro, since both have had good reviews here. My concern is that I tend to use thick fabrics pretty frequently, and also very thin fabrics, and I would like a machine that can handle both easily. I am also open to getting an industrial machine, but the jargon is really intimidating, and the cost is daunting when this would be my first coverstitch machine and I'm not entirely certain it's the solution to my problems.

Help! :)
--Mo
  
Member since 4/10/04
Posts: 1658
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Posted on: 3/3/11 10:14 AM ET
In reply to miikla
The Singer Quantumlock is a 5 thread, but also converts to a coverstitch, offering 2 coverstitch sizes and also has a triple coverstitch. It's a lot of machine for the price and worth every penny.
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Bernina 820, Bernina Artista 165, Pfaff Creative 7530, Janome 1600P
  
Member since 4/15/07
Posts: 9121
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Posted on: 3/3/11 10:27 AM ET
I have the 735 and love it! I do not at the moment have a separate coverstitch machine... eventually I will. It is not difficult to switch to coverstitch if I need it but there are a few steps. My decision to get a combo machine was based on economics. If I had the cash at the time of my purchase I would have chosen the Juki 734 or 654 and the Janome CPX 1000. I love my Juki and wished they made a coverstitch only machine, like Janome. The Juki has a wonderful cutting system that works well on heavy or light fabrics. I have not sewn elastic with it yet so I can not remark on that. If you already have a basic serger then I would simply get the Coverpro.
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Janome MC6700 Bernina Q16Plus Bernina 240 Juki MO735 Singer 201-2 Singer 221-1
  
Member since 4/21/07
Posts: 22
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Posted on: 3/3/11 10:29 AM ET
HSN currently has Singer 5 thread serger on sale for $499.99 with free shipping and 30 days to return if you don't like it. You can also do 5 payments of $99.99. Seems like a good way to see if it meets your needs.
  
Member since 2/23/06
Posts: 6
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Posted on: 3/3/11 10:41 AM ET
Well, I don't really need a serger at all, from what I can tell. I actually already have a serger which I don't use. The juki just impressed me because it has the industrial engineering heft, and I thought it would be more likely to handle the heavier fabrics I may throw at it without complaining. I wasn't able to find any real information about the coverpro being able to handle thick fabrics. I did see the 400+ page thread on coverpros, and I can imagine someone mentioned it in there somewhere, but that's just a lot of reading. I made it to page 6 before I just gave up and posted here :)
  
Member since 10/24/09
Posts: 148
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Posted on: 3/3/11 11:25 AM ET
I'm not understanding exactly what you're making. Is it just tubes with elastic, and you're sewing through the elastic? A belt loop foot would do the trick. However, such feet are only one width. I know the Coverpro has a lot of accessories for elastic, so you may want to look at the accessories.
  
Member since 6/20/05
Posts: 74
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Posted on: 3/3/11 11:34 AM ET
I find the easiest way to accomplish what you want, is to serge the elastic to the wrong side of the fabric with just 2 threads to reduce bulk, and then either fold over and coverstitch (encasing the edge of the fabric and elastic, as well as the initial serging with the looper thread while coverstitching). You could apply the elastic with a sewing machine instead of the serger, but I find it's easier to line the edges up nicely using the serger (with the blade disengaged, it acts a bit like a guide).

Here's an example of elastic serged on at the waist, then folded over and coverstitched. I didn't bother changing out the looper thread in my machine to something that matched the fabric better, since these were just undies for my 5 year old and I know she doesn't care :)



The leg (lingerie) elastic was pretty much done the same way, but serged to the right side of the fabric, and folded over so the picot edge peeks out, and then I coverstitched over the initial line of serging. I had swapped out the looper thread to match the elastic for that stage.
  
Member since 2/23/06
Posts: 6
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Posted on: 3/3/11 12:02 PM ET
I actually make jock straps, but I've discovered when I try to talk to sewing machine reps, they seem to get hung up on the *what* I'm making, and I can't seem to get to the part where they're helping me find solutions to the problem.

Yes, I am sewing directly into the elastic, because that's the only way to completely encase the elastic in order to make the waistband and leg straps for the garment.

Here is a link to my etsy shop and you can see the prototypes I've made: Mobius Operandi Shop

On the body, they look great. I'm not even having problems with stitches breaking when it stretches or anything. It's just when it's off the body, the edges of the elastic are wavy. I feel like it looks unprofessional and like the elastic is giving out. That's the main problem I'm trying to solve. Secondarily, is the fact that I don't feel like a zigzag stitch, or a regular machine overlock stitch (which basically looks like a zigzag) is all that professional looking when you can sometimes (often the nap of the fabric hides it when the thread is well matched) see the stitches from the outside of the waist or leg strap.
  
Member since 10/24/09
Posts: 148
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Posted on: 3/3/11 1:23 PM ET
Wow, those are great looking! Too bad hubby wouldn't consider wearing
Anyway, you are right that coverstitching will solve the waviness. I would think any of the machines would handle the fabrics you are sewing. I am not sure about the particular construction you would use. Maybe you could have a better discussion with a salesperson by saying you are making headbands? The Coverpros do have the elastic attachments; check them out.
  
Member since 2/23/06
Posts: 6
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Posted on: 3/4/11 9:51 AM ET
hehe, I get a lot of that But then I talk to men and ask them if they'd wear them if their SO came home with it and asked them to wear it with that twinkle in their eye. Most all of them said they would, after they stammered about it a bit

Headbands is a great idea, thank you! I've never been in a position where I've had to be evasive about what I make, I had no idea it would be such a huge deal for men to talk about it professionally. Hopefully that means I've struck a nerve and people will respond to it positively once they get used to the idea

I'm glad to hear that it's likely the coverstitch will solve the waviness. I don't mind buying a good machine, I just don't want to waste my money if it's not going to work!
  
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