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Member since 3/2/11
Posts: 76
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Posted on: 3/3/11 12:45 PM ET
I've seen a lot of sellers on etsy who say their gowns are made with recycled bustiers, which I gather means that they use a ready-made bustier as a foundation and then build on top of that. I make custom gowns, and have always made built in corselettes myself, but of course that is very time consuming and is often difficult to get just the right fit when I'm working with clients long distance and can't do the fitting in person.
Additionally, most brides want bust support, so they end up getting a bra or corset to wear underneath, but say they would prefer an all in one garment. I've been wondering if it would be feasible to have them pick out a bustier that fits them and then build it in as the foundation. That makes sense especially with sweetheart strapless dresses, where the bustier is basically the shape I want anyway. My concern is that since most bustiers are made out of a stretch material, will I be able to the outer layer (silk satin or dupioni) without causing weird puckers?

If anyone has any experience working with this, I would really appreciate some advice to save me from having to learn by trial and error! Thank you!
  
Member since 10/26/07
Posts: 617
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Posted on: 3/11/11 2:29 PM ET
I am copying a designer dress.It has a deep plunge neckline, strapless empire top. The only way I think I can replicate this is to build the top around a a U dipped strapless bra.I have to design the pattern. So I will get the bra, pad it out on the dress form.The dress is a sheath that flares below the knee so I can't use a a boned corselette through the waist as the seamline is at Empire level. Hence the idea of a well boned bra top. I will also bone the underlining. This all has to be light weighe because the top is draped with pleating and the fabric is heavy peau silk.I haven't started yet but this makes sense to me .Why not save yourself the extra time and use the corselette next to the body where its needed most ,then finish and line your dress beautifully. To attach the dress to the corsellete is not neccesary [any more than you would a bra or slip but you could sew snaps or use hollywood tape between the inner and outer garments. Just some thoughts I'll stay tuned
  
Member since 7/19/03
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Posted on: 3/12/11 2:53 PM ET
I'm not sure I'm following both of your details accurately, but I guess I just have one comment.

I think you'll both need a way to settle the weight of the dress on the waist/hipbones of the person wearing the dress. I personally prefer to do this with boning in the underlayer of the dress with a firm waist stay. In an empire waisted dress this would need to be separate from the outer layers of the dress, or at least an extension of the bodice down to the waist in the under layers.

I think in some cases you could use a stretchy undergarment that had boning; the caveat would be that the dress would probably not look very good on the hanger because you'll need to attach it firmly to the undergarment at more than just one place and the smaller inside layer would pull in the outer layers when it's off the body.
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
  
Member since 10/26/07
Posts: 617
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Posted on: 3/17/11 0:11 AM ET
Thanks for your ideas.Do you think if I bone the lining through the waist on the empire top that the bones will create ridges where they stop? I really don't want any horizontal lines or vertical bumps through the waist area because the dress is so fitted and the gal is small and thin. Thanks
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 3/17/11 2:01 PM ET
Perhaps not much help. But when I made my wedding dress many years ago (it did have sleeves), I made a muslin of the top, (no sleeves), then went shopping for undergarments with the muslin in hand.

Then and now I had a big bust (DDD), so sleeveless was not an option for me.

What having the muslin allowed me to do was to make sure the undergarment was supportive enough as well as fully covered by the dress fabric.

I would be concerned about using a ready made undergarment as the sole support for a dress. They are designed to hold the girls up, not a heavy full length dress.
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Who knew being a Granny was the best thing ever?
  
Member since 7/19/03
Posts: 3916
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Posted on: 3/17/11 3:06 PM ET
In reply to carry
Quote: carry
Thanks for your ideas.Do you think if I bone the lining through the waist on the empire top that the bones will create ridges where they stop? I really don't want any horizontal lines or vertical bumps through the waist area because the dress is so fitted and the gal is small and thin. Thanks

I would make sure the boning was on an entirely different layer than the dress and it's lining. You need those two together to keep the boning from showing through. Your bottom layer will be tight and formfitting and putting the weight of the dress and the bust support on the waist via the boning. The dress/lining will be looser -- well fitted, but skimming over the boning/support layer.
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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com
  
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