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How to figure out what size pattern you need. (Moderated by Sharon1952)
Posted on: 3/8/11 1:02 PM ET
I have often thought that there should be a pinned topic on how to figure out what size pattern you need.
I see this question being asked again and again. So I will start one off and see where it goes.
You can not figure out what size pattern to buy based on ready to wear sizing
Rule number one: You must take measurements of the body you are buying the pattern for.
The first step: Circumference
At a minimum you will need the upper bust, bust, waist and hip.
Note: If you are bigger than a B cup then use your upper bust measurement to select your pattern.
With these measurements you have a starting point.
This is by no means the total answer to getting a good fit, but you will know that the item you are making will at least fit around your body.
The second step: Length
Most patterns are designed for someone 5'6". Are you shorter or taller?
You need to learn where your body is different from the standard pattern.
If you are really serious about garment sewing then your next step is to get your hands on a book about pattern fitting. There are a number of good ones out there. "Fit for Read People" is a good place to start but by no means the only one.
-- Edited on 3/8/11 1:08 PM --
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I see this question being asked again and again. So I will start one off and see where it goes.
You can not figure out what size pattern to buy based on ready to wear sizing
Rule number one: You must take measurements of the body you are buying the pattern for.
The first step: Circumference
At a minimum you will need the upper bust, bust, waist and hip.
Note: If you are bigger than a B cup then use your upper bust measurement to select your pattern.
With these measurements you have a starting point.
This is by no means the total answer to getting a good fit, but you will know that the item you are making will at least fit around your body.
The second step: Length
Most patterns are designed for someone 5'6". Are you shorter or taller?
You need to learn where your body is different from the standard pattern.
If you are really serious about garment sewing then your next step is to get your hands on a book about pattern fitting. There are a number of good ones out there. "Fit for Read People" is a good place to start but by no means the only one.
-- Edited on 3/8/11 1:08 PM --
------
Ada
Posted on: 3/8/11 5:03 PM ET
Just need to order pattern on own measurements. And won't need to read lots of books.
Posted on: 3/8/11 9:03 PM ET
Good idea, AdaH.
Some other thoughts:
If you have a garment similar to what you are going to sew, measure it & compare it to the finished measurements of the pattern. This will give you an idea of which size you should make to get the type of ease you like. If you do not know what the finished measurements are, you can measure the pattern pieces. Make certain you subtract any seam allowances included in the pieces.
Ease = amount above your body measurements. There are two types: wearing ease & style ease. Wearing ease is the amount you need to breath & move. Style ease is what makes different styles look different (a tunic top vs a form fitting blouse). You need more ease for wovens then knits.
Pattern sizes are typically larger than what you would find in ready-to-wear clothing. This is only a rule of thumb, because both RTW and patterns vary widely. However, if you wear a size 4 RTW you probably need to be looking at a size 10 pattern. If you wear a size 10 RTW you should start looking at a size 16 pattern. Again, these are just to get you in the right ball park so you aren't shocked when you see how different the pattern size number is from what you are used to buying.
Many people use multiple sizes. A 'pear' might use a size 14 top and a size 18 bottom. The advantage of sewing is that you can make a garment that fits all parts of you.
There are also downloadable patterns and pattern programs. Some of these are 'customizable' to your size, but the instructions tends to be less than in a regular printed pattern.
------
Some other thoughts:
If you have a garment similar to what you are going to sew, measure it & compare it to the finished measurements of the pattern. This will give you an idea of which size you should make to get the type of ease you like. If you do not know what the finished measurements are, you can measure the pattern pieces. Make certain you subtract any seam allowances included in the pieces.
Ease = amount above your body measurements. There are two types: wearing ease & style ease. Wearing ease is the amount you need to breath & move. Style ease is what makes different styles look different (a tunic top vs a form fitting blouse). You need more ease for wovens then knits.
Pattern sizes are typically larger than what you would find in ready-to-wear clothing. This is only a rule of thumb, because both RTW and patterns vary widely. However, if you wear a size 4 RTW you probably need to be looking at a size 10 pattern. If you wear a size 10 RTW you should start looking at a size 16 pattern. Again, these are just to get you in the right ball park so you aren't shocked when you see how different the pattern size number is from what you are used to buying.
Many people use multiple sizes. A 'pear' might use a size 14 top and a size 18 bottom. The advantage of sewing is that you can make a garment that fits all parts of you.
There are also downloadable patterns and pattern programs. Some of these are 'customizable' to your size, but the instructions tends to be less than in a regular printed pattern.
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With a great wardrobe that's still in the flat-fabric stage.
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