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Posted on: 3/20/11 10:35 AM ET
After reading ShantiSeamStressing's topic I began to wonder about under-the-bust vertical darts. Where should they begin? Where the underwire of the bra ends or lower than that? Also if I am adding darts in the front do I need to add darts in the back to 'balance' the shirt?
What normally is a good start to begin for how much to take in?
Thank you!!
I just realized I spelt vertical wrong & can't seem to edit the subject/title!
-- Edited on 3/20/11 10:37 AM --
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What normally is a good start to begin for how much to take in?
Thank you!!
I just realized I spelt vertical wrong & can't seem to edit the subject/title!

-- Edited on 3/20/11 10:37 AM --
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- Maureen.
Kenmore 26231 SM
White 2900 Serger
Brother 1250D Combo
Kenmore 26231 SM
White 2900 Serger
Brother 1250D Combo
Re: Vertitcal darts (posted on 3/20/11 1:42 PM ET)
In reply to mozeyrn
All my references say darts should end about one inch before the fullest part of the bust. As far as adding them to the back as well as the front, I'd say it depends on your body, the garment and how much shaping you want or need.
Vertical is spelled correctly as far as I can see.
Vertical is spelled correctly as far as I can see.
Re: Vertitcal darts (posted on 3/20/11 6:31 PM ET)
Well, you want the dart to point directly at the apex of the bust, and end at least 1" away (more for a larger bust and larger dart). I've read that patterns are made for a B cup, so you may not need to adjust the size of the dart. Your apex probably needs to move, at least a little.
A very closely fitted shirt will have both front and back darts. You really don't have to have back darts.
Why are you adding a dart?
A very closely fitted shirt will have both front and back darts. You really don't have to have back darts.
Why are you adding a dart?
Posted on: 3/20/11 7:15 PM ET
I am looking to start some garment sewing and had seen a question about darts and starting thinking how I would go about altering. I am a size 2 pants with a 34D chest.
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- Maureen.
Kenmore 26231 SM
White 2900 Serger
Brother 1250D Combo
Kenmore 26231 SM
White 2900 Serger
Brother 1250D Combo
Re: Vertitcal darts (posted on 3/21/11 12:07 PM ET)
In reply to mozeyrn
Well, there is a pretty good Singer book called "The Perfect Fit" that describes fitting the bust pretty well. The Reader's Digest Sewing Book is also a great general reference that is available used for a few bucks online.
Essentially, you want to start by selecting a pattern size that matches your upper bust (chest measurement just below the arms). This is surely less than a 34. You do this because patterns are made for about a B cup. Then tissue-fit the front (take the pattern pieces and tape the darts closed, then hold it up to your body) to locate the bust apex on the pattern. A women's blouse will already have the darts that you need.
Move the bust point up or down to match your figure. Horizontal or angled darts, you just move both ends up or down by the same amount. Vertical darts are a little different.
You'll need to add a little more width for your bust (the FBA that is so popular to discuss on these boards). You may also want to make the dart end a little further from the apex for a larger cup size (I'd shoot for 1 1/2in.). If you shorten the dart, it will induce more curve to the blouse, so I would do an FBA to add a little less (maybe a total addition of 1/2 in less or so to the whole garment).
Depending on the garment design (seams, darts, etc) you will do the FBA differently. Essentially, you have to add a little fabric horizontally and vertically to go around the bust, then dart or ease or taper it out so you don't change the stitching lines that meet with other pieces.
Essentially, you want to start by selecting a pattern size that matches your upper bust (chest measurement just below the arms). This is surely less than a 34. You do this because patterns are made for about a B cup. Then tissue-fit the front (take the pattern pieces and tape the darts closed, then hold it up to your body) to locate the bust apex on the pattern. A women's blouse will already have the darts that you need.
Move the bust point up or down to match your figure. Horizontal or angled darts, you just move both ends up or down by the same amount. Vertical darts are a little different.
You'll need to add a little more width for your bust (the FBA that is so popular to discuss on these boards). You may also want to make the dart end a little further from the apex for a larger cup size (I'd shoot for 1 1/2in.). If you shorten the dart, it will induce more curve to the blouse, so I would do an FBA to add a little less (maybe a total addition of 1/2 in less or so to the whole garment).
Depending on the garment design (seams, darts, etc) you will do the FBA differently. Essentially, you have to add a little fabric horizontally and vertically to go around the bust, then dart or ease or taper it out so you don't change the stitching lines that meet with other pieces.
Posted on: 3/21/11 10:49 PM ET
Corrected the title for you - sorry I didn't see that y'day!
JEF
Board Moderator
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JEF
Board Moderator
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