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bulge at bottom (Moderated by Deepika)
Posted on: 8/10/11 3:54 PM ET
Please share your secrets regarding how you match up the seam at the bottom when sewing an invisible zipper. I have tried both sewing the bottom of the seam first (Els way) and the traditional way of sewing it last. The zipper just gets in the way to make a nice seam at the bottom.
Posted on: 8/10/11 4:42 PM ET
There is a nice tutorial in the latest issue of threads. I'll see if I can find it and add a link. I have it in print, but haven't looked online.
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Janome Skyline S5
Brother PQ1500S
Singer 201-2
Pfaff 138-6
Janome Coverpro 1000
Juki MO-655DE
US Blindstitch 718-9
Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ
Bernette B70 Deco
Brother PQ1500S
Singer 201-2
Pfaff 138-6
Janome Coverpro 1000
Juki MO-655DE
US Blindstitch 718-9
Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ
Bernette B70 Deco
Posted on: 8/10/11 4:53 PM ET
In reply to M.S.
If not, can you tell me what the steps are? Thanks
Posted on: 8/10/11 7:51 PM ET
It's not secret... for me. I hand baste the zipper and then sew it.
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Erica Bunker
Birmingham, AL
http://www.ericabunker.com
Birmingham, AL
http://www.ericabunker.com
Posted on: 8/10/11 9:09 PM ET
In reply to lca
Ok this is how I do it. I sew the insivisble zipper in first, then the seam below.
First tip, always buy an invisible zip at least 1" longer than your zipper opening and leave the extra 1" hanging at the bottom.
Sew in your zipper as usual. Next sew the seam below the zipper, with the zipper closed. You will be sewing from the hem up to the zip so if you aren't confident of doing this without fabric creep, baste the seam first, starting at the zipper end. (Personally I don't do this but I recommend this for beginners.)
Using a regular foot sew the seam to within an inch or so of the zip. Stop and switch to a zipper foot. Now sew the last few inches up to the zip, and here's the secret. Stop two to three stitches short of your previous zipper stitching and backstitch so the top of the seam is secure. Where you stop is where the zipper tab will open to. There is absolutely no need to meet your previous stitching. The stitching should line up but it doesn't have to meet. It's trying to get the stitching to meet that causes problems. Yes this leaves a tiny hole/gap but it doesn't matter. The gap means the seam will lie perfectly flat.
The extra length in the zipper makes it easier to sew up to your previous stitching. It's only the last two or three stitches that are hard and you aren't sewing these.
Press everything well, then lastly using your zipper foot, and with the zipper closed, stitch the bottom 1" or so of the zipper tape to the individual seam allowances on each side as close to the zipper teeth as possible. This fixes the tiny hole/gap we left earlier, attaching the zipper to the seam where the gap is, plus ensures the bottom of the zipper is very secure. HTH
-- Edited on 8/10/11 11:33 PM --
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First tip, always buy an invisible zip at least 1" longer than your zipper opening and leave the extra 1" hanging at the bottom.
Sew in your zipper as usual. Next sew the seam below the zipper, with the zipper closed. You will be sewing from the hem up to the zip so if you aren't confident of doing this without fabric creep, baste the seam first, starting at the zipper end. (Personally I don't do this but I recommend this for beginners.)
Using a regular foot sew the seam to within an inch or so of the zip. Stop and switch to a zipper foot. Now sew the last few inches up to the zip, and here's the secret. Stop two to three stitches short of your previous zipper stitching and backstitch so the top of the seam is secure. Where you stop is where the zipper tab will open to. There is absolutely no need to meet your previous stitching. The stitching should line up but it doesn't have to meet. It's trying to get the stitching to meet that causes problems. Yes this leaves a tiny hole/gap but it doesn't matter. The gap means the seam will lie perfectly flat.
The extra length in the zipper makes it easier to sew up to your previous stitching. It's only the last two or three stitches that are hard and you aren't sewing these.
Press everything well, then lastly using your zipper foot, and with the zipper closed, stitch the bottom 1" or so of the zipper tape to the individual seam allowances on each side as close to the zipper teeth as possible. This fixes the tiny hole/gap we left earlier, attaching the zipper to the seam where the gap is, plus ensures the bottom of the zipper is very secure. HTH
-- Edited on 8/10/11 11:33 PM --
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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 8/10/11 10:59 PM ET
In reply to Sew4Fun
Thanks for that, Belinda! So the gap is a good thing. I'm copying, printing, and tacking to my sewing room wall.
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marjoriekh
Posted on: 8/11/11 12:02 PM ET
This technique demonstrated on a Palmer Pletch video works best for me:
1. Work with 5/8" seam allowances. Stabilize edges with fusible interfacing if necessary. Overlock or zigzag the fabric edges.
2. Affix double-sided adhesive quilting tape to the right sides of the invisible zipper. Remove paper backing of one side of zipper. Open zipper and tape one edge to the right side fabric about 1/8" away from the edge. Do this step with the fabric lying on a flat surface, i.e., table, not on your lap. That way, you don't stretch the fabric.
3. Using a regular zipper foot, stitch the zipper to the fabric, starting at the top and sewing to the bottom as far as you can go. Backstitch to secure thread. You'll notice that you are actually sewing with a 3/8" s.a. at this point.
4. Do the same with the other side of the zipper. The tape really helps line up everything just right.
When finished, you'll have an inch or two of zipper hanging loose and the fabric panels below the zipper not sewn together yet. That's the next step.
5. Pin your fabric layers, right sides together. In doing so, include the bottom inch or two of your zipper. You have to kind of smush it so it lies flat so you can pin the fabric layers together.
6. Then, using a 5/8" s.a. and a zipper foot, sew the center seam. Extend the center seam about 1/4" past the zipper seam. Here is the crucial part: Your center seam and the zipper seam will NOT meet. For the overlap of 1/4" , they will be parallel, about 1/8" apart. That's what you want.
In my experience, this technique eliminates both the hole and the dimple that often accompany invisible zipper. It's not the only method to sew in invisible zippers, but it's the one that has worked best for me.
One caveat: The zipper is sewn in with a slightly smaller s.a. than provided, and strictly speaking, you end up with 1/4 inch more ease than planned. If that is crucial to your fit, adjust the s.a. accordingly, just as long as your zipper seam is slighly offset by the center seam.
Claudia
1. Work with 5/8" seam allowances. Stabilize edges with fusible interfacing if necessary. Overlock or zigzag the fabric edges.
2. Affix double-sided adhesive quilting tape to the right sides of the invisible zipper. Remove paper backing of one side of zipper. Open zipper and tape one edge to the right side fabric about 1/8" away from the edge. Do this step with the fabric lying on a flat surface, i.e., table, not on your lap. That way, you don't stretch the fabric.
3. Using a regular zipper foot, stitch the zipper to the fabric, starting at the top and sewing to the bottom as far as you can go. Backstitch to secure thread. You'll notice that you are actually sewing with a 3/8" s.a. at this point.
4. Do the same with the other side of the zipper. The tape really helps line up everything just right.
When finished, you'll have an inch or two of zipper hanging loose and the fabric panels below the zipper not sewn together yet. That's the next step.
5. Pin your fabric layers, right sides together. In doing so, include the bottom inch or two of your zipper. You have to kind of smush it so it lies flat so you can pin the fabric layers together.
6. Then, using a 5/8" s.a. and a zipper foot, sew the center seam. Extend the center seam about 1/4" past the zipper seam. Here is the crucial part: Your center seam and the zipper seam will NOT meet. For the overlap of 1/4" , they will be parallel, about 1/8" apart. That's what you want.
In my experience, this technique eliminates both the hole and the dimple that often accompany invisible zipper. It's not the only method to sew in invisible zippers, but it's the one that has worked best for me.
One caveat: The zipper is sewn in with a slightly smaller s.a. than provided, and strictly speaking, you end up with 1/4 inch more ease than planned. If that is crucial to your fit, adjust the s.a. accordingly, just as long as your zipper seam is slighly offset by the center seam.
Claudia
Posted on: 8/11/11 3:37 PM ET
Thank you sew4fun and purplebouquet. I was trying to match the seams. That was my problem. I am going to print out both of these for future reference.
Good ideas!
Purplebouquet: What video is that? I am a visual learner.
Good ideas!
Purplebouquet: What video is that? I am a visual learner.
Posted on: 8/11/11 7:44 PM ET
In reply to lca
The video is "Sewing, Good to Great. It's in the Details, featuring Marta Alto."
Good techniques on how to sew zippers, hems, binding, pockets, linings and more.
Claudia
Good techniques on how to sew zippers, hems, binding, pockets, linings and more.
Claudia
Posted on: 8/12/11 1:00 PM ET
In reply to purplebouquet
Thank you. That is one I don't have. I'll have to get it.
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