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what's the difference? (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 8/23/11 9:22 AM ET
I've hardly ever worked in wool, but my sons are interested in having some tailored items, like trousers and vests. I made some vests last fall from tropical weight wool which turned out beautifully, but now I want to work in fabrics that are a little bit heavier.
When I look online at medium weight wools I find alot of gabardine and flannel and, frankly, they look like the same fabric to me, usually with a diagonal twill weave.
So for all you wool experts out there. What the heck's the difference?!?
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When I look online at medium weight wools I find alot of gabardine and flannel and, frankly, they look like the same fabric to me, usually with a diagonal twill weave.
So for all you wool experts out there. What the heck's the difference?!?
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Trinity
I probably have too many sewing machines, but how am I supposed to resist when they're either free by the side of the road or people give them to me?
http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/
I probably have too many sewing machines, but how am I supposed to resist when they're either free by the side of the road or people give them to me?
http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 8/23/11 9:40 AM ET
Gabardine is usually made from a worsted spun wool - in worsteds, the wool fibers are combed out so they are all parallel (like brushing tangled hair straight). Wool flannels are made with woolen spun wool - the wool is still rather jumbled and tangled when it is spun. Woollens tend to be a bit fuzzier and softer, with more of a tendency to full (felt) when washed. Worsteds have a 'hard' and somewhat springy feel to them, with very little soft/fuzziness - the fabric tends to be more smooth than a woollen.
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mmmmm woooool
Posted on: 8/23/11 10:33 AM ET
In reply to Nikki
Thank you so much, Nikki! That is an excellent description of the difference and exactly the kind of information I was looking for




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Trinity
I probably have too many sewing machines, but how am I supposed to resist when they're either free by the side of the road or people give them to me?
http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/
I probably have too many sewing machines, but how am I supposed to resist when they're either free by the side of the road or people give them to me?
http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 8/23/11 11:06 AM ET
Another type of wool weave worth looking into is wool tricotine; lovely hand, very durable and easier (at least for me!) to sew with than gabardine. Online, I've seen it at both FabricMart and Denver.
Posted on: 8/23/11 12:40 PM ET
I should also say that flannels are often tabby weave rather than twill, and it may have had a slight nap raised on one side as in cotton flannels. With online vendors, they may or may not give the fabric a precise descriptive name.
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mmmmm woooool
Posted on: 8/23/11 1:36 PM ET
In reply to Vers
Intriguing. What exactly is wool tricotine?
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Trinity
I probably have too many sewing machines, but how am I supposed to resist when they're either free by the side of the road or people give them to me?
http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/
I probably have too many sewing machines, but how am I supposed to resist when they're either free by the side of the road or people give them to me?
http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 8/23/11 1:40 PM ET
In reply to Nikki
Quote: Nikki
I should also say that flannels are often tabby weave rather than twill, and it may have had a slight nap raised on one side as in cotton flannels. With online vendors, they may or may not give the fabric a precise descriptive name.
I should also say that flannels are often tabby weave rather than twill, and it may have had a slight nap raised on one side as in cotton flannels. With online vendors, they may or may not give the fabric a precise descriptive name.
*sigh* That's for sure. There is absolutely nowhere near where I live that I can get high quality fabric so I'm kind of stuck with ordering online. But I figure if I gather as much information as possible, I'll have a better chance of getting what I want.
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Trinity
I probably have too many sewing machines, but how am I supposed to resist when they're either free by the side of the road or people give them to me?
http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/
I probably have too many sewing machines, but how am I supposed to resist when they're either free by the side of the road or people give them to me?
http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 8/23/11 1:46 PM ET
In reply to Trinity.
Quote: TrinityT
Intriguing. What exactly is wool tricotine?
Intriguing. What exactly is wool tricotine?
Okay, I did a quick search for the answer to my own question and found:
a worsted woolen in a double twill weave
So I guess my real question is what's the difference between tricotine and gabardine?
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Trinity
I probably have too many sewing machines, but how am I supposed to resist when they're either free by the side of the road or people give them to me?
http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/
I probably have too many sewing machines, but how am I supposed to resist when they're either free by the side of the road or people give them to me?
http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 8/23/11 5:34 PM ET
In reply to Trinity.
A gabardine's twill is a single twill. The diagonal lines in the weave are usually very narrow and close together and sometimes very subtle. A tricotine will have a more obvious diagonal texture, more diagonal ridges and tends to feel more textured and loose, maybe even airy, than a gabardine which is often very tightly woven and practically wind proof.
Gabardines are more difficult to work with than flannels or tropical weight woolens as they are difficult to press properly. I think a flannel of some sort would be a good choice if you are just getting into the wool sewing thing.
Flannel is one of those funny words, it has over time meant several different types of fabric, wool to cotton, plain or fuzzy. These days a wool flannel brings to mind a softer feeling wool with a brushed nap on one side.
Sawyer Brook, Emma One Sock, and Michaels Fabrics all send a free swatch if you request one.
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Gabardines are more difficult to work with than flannels or tropical weight woolens as they are difficult to press properly. I think a flannel of some sort would be a good choice if you are just getting into the wool sewing thing.
Flannel is one of those funny words, it has over time meant several different types of fabric, wool to cotton, plain or fuzzy. These days a wool flannel brings to mind a softer feeling wool with a brushed nap on one side.
Sawyer Brook, Emma One Sock, and Michaels Fabrics all send a free swatch if you request one.
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Liz
thefittinglife.blogspot.com
thefittinglife.blogspot.com
Posted on: 8/24/11 11:12 AM ET
All of the hard surfaced wools are harder to press than flannel, but they wear better. For easy to sew I agree that flannel is a good start as are wool tweeds where the mistakes are easy to hide.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
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