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how to add a lining when the pattern doesn't have one (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Re: Lining a zippered jacket without instructions (posted on 10/22/11 4:47 PM ET)
Hi everyone,
I plan to make view B of this pattern, but I'm going to use some wool I just bought instead of the recommended prequilted fabric. I would like to add a lining, but as a beginner, I'm pretty reliant on instructions, and this pattern has no lining.
I've seen tips and/or tutorials here or there for adding linings, but not sure if they account for the zipper (and they are usually pretty intimidating anyway). If you know of a good online tip -- or even a DVD if it's worth the price--, please share!
Alternatively, please feel free to recommend a similar-looking pattern with a lining. I haven't had much luck so far. As long as the pattern has a zipper and collar, I could probably transpose the instructions to fit my pattern.... um.. right?
Otherwise, I guess I will call the instructor at the local sewing store and hope she can help me without using too much of her $50/hour time :)
TIA for your input
-- Edited on 10/22/11 4:48 PM --
I plan to make view B of this pattern, but I'm going to use some wool I just bought instead of the recommended prequilted fabric. I would like to add a lining, but as a beginner, I'm pretty reliant on instructions, and this pattern has no lining.
I've seen tips and/or tutorials here or there for adding linings, but not sure if they account for the zipper (and they are usually pretty intimidating anyway). If you know of a good online tip -- or even a DVD if it's worth the price--, please share!
Alternatively, please feel free to recommend a similar-looking pattern with a lining. I haven't had much luck so far. As long as the pattern has a zipper and collar, I could probably transpose the instructions to fit my pattern.... um.. right?
Otherwise, I guess I will call the instructor at the local sewing store and hope she can help me without using too much of her $50/hour time :)
TIA for your input
-- Edited on 10/22/11 4:48 PM --
Posted on: 10/22/11 5:08 PM ET
I'm a fan of linings too, I think they make the extra work worthwhile. I've made a few things which had the lining included in the instructions, but also other things where I had to add it all myself.
What I'd do is make the lining just like the coat (copy all the pieces apart from the collar) but remember when attaching the lining which way the seams will go (finished lining will be inside out). First attach the lining at the neck of the main jacket right sides together. Then attach the lining to the zip. Turn whole thing right side out. Hand stitch a few stitches at the top and bottom of the arm hole (to keep the lining from shifting around when wearing it), then slip stitch the end of the lining sleeve to the (already hemmed) main fabric sleeve.
Once all of that is done you can see how the lining hangs and hem the jacket and lining.
If this doesn't make sense just ask! Think of it like lining a dress, but the zipper is at the front.
What I'd do is make the lining just like the coat (copy all the pieces apart from the collar) but remember when attaching the lining which way the seams will go (finished lining will be inside out). First attach the lining at the neck of the main jacket right sides together. Then attach the lining to the zip. Turn whole thing right side out. Hand stitch a few stitches at the top and bottom of the arm hole (to keep the lining from shifting around when wearing it), then slip stitch the end of the lining sleeve to the (already hemmed) main fabric sleeve.
Once all of that is done you can see how the lining hangs and hem the jacket and lining.
If this doesn't make sense just ask! Think of it like lining a dress, but the zipper is at the front.
Posted on: 10/22/11 5:16 PM ET
Threads has a really good tutorial on adding a lining to a jacket.
Good luck!
------
Good luck!
------
~Elizabeth in the prairie
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
Posted on: 10/22/11 6:29 PM ET
In reply to rmusic1
Thanks for the tips. I will try to apply them when the time comes.
I am getting the idea that I can at least cut out and sew most of the jacket and the lining before I'll need professional assistance. If I need to book a lesson at that point, at least I can probably make it a short one.
The backwards dress might well be a good analogy, but I've actually never lined anything! However, I might have a skirt pattern that has a lining and a zipper, so perhaps I can get some clues from that. (Oh, and I've never installed a zipper, either :)).
Thanks again for help, and maybe I'll take you up on asking for more when the time comes.
Take care.

I am getting the idea that I can at least cut out and sew most of the jacket and the lining before I'll need professional assistance. If I need to book a lesson at that point, at least I can probably make it a short one.
The backwards dress might well be a good analogy, but I've actually never lined anything! However, I might have a skirt pattern that has a lining and a zipper, so perhaps I can get some clues from that. (Oh, and I've never installed a zipper, either :)).
Thanks again for help, and maybe I'll take you up on asking for more when the time comes.
Take care.
Posted on: 10/22/11 6:33 PM ET
In reply to stirwatersblue
Thank you. I'd actually seen that one, but didn't know whether or not it would work for the zippered jacket. And, I confess, it was a little intimidating... But I think that's just the nature of the task, rather than the method they use.
Posted on: 10/22/11 8:55 PM ET
I think it will make a lot more sense once you're actually *doing* it.
The basic principle to lining anything is: Make an inside-out version of the garment and slip it inside, sewing raw edges together. I know it sounds super-intimidating, but I think you'll be surprised how simple it really is.
For me, this was one of those things that I couldn't wrap my brain around--but once I had the pieces in my hands, it made total sense.
I think the piece you've chosen is a good one to start with, and once you get started, you'll do fine.
Good luck!
------
The basic principle to lining anything is: Make an inside-out version of the garment and slip it inside, sewing raw edges together. I know it sounds super-intimidating, but I think you'll be surprised how simple it really is.
For me, this was one of those things that I couldn't wrap my brain around--but once I had the pieces in my hands, it made total sense.
I think the piece you've chosen is a good one to start with, and once you get started, you'll do fine.
Good luck!
------
~Elizabeth in the prairie
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
Posted on: 10/22/11 10:38 PM ET
In reply to Liz1968
It's easy. The sleeves use the same pattern as the cloth. The front and back, you just trace in the edge of the facing, and then add two seam allowances to the lining.
The only alterations you really need to make are to trim an inch or so in length from the bottom and sleeve hems and to add a 1in. ease pleat to the center back. If there's no back facing, you can use the same pattern piece and just add an inch to the lining CB seam when you cut it.
The only alterations you really need to make are to trim an inch or so in length from the bottom and sleeve hems and to add a 1in. ease pleat to the center back. If there's no back facing, you can use the same pattern piece and just add an inch to the lining CB seam when you cut it.
Posted on: 11/9/11 11:20 AM ET
In reply to Liz1968
Liz,
If you can find the book Easy Guide to Sewing Linings by Connie Long (check your library), she describes in detail what alterations you need to make to create lining pattern pieces. The posters above have also given you the same information but if you want an illustrated guide, Connie Long's book is ideal. The book describes how to modify existing lining patterns and how to draft a lining where no pattern is given.
If you can find the book Easy Guide to Sewing Linings by Connie Long (check your library), she describes in detail what alterations you need to make to create lining pattern pieces. The posters above have also given you the same information but if you want an illustrated guide, Connie Long's book is ideal. The book describes how to modify existing lining patterns and how to draft a lining where no pattern is given.
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