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Member since 5/17/09
Posts: 224
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Posted on: 11/16/11 11:03 AM ET
I cut the pieces accurately, serge the unfinished edge, sew them on the seam line, grade the seam allowance, understitch the seam to the facing, press the edges using a ham, tack the facing at the side seams and I end up with ruffles on the inside of the blouse.

Any helpful suggestions? Thanks!
  
Member since 12/26/08
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Posted on: 11/16/11 11:17 AM ET
Did you use an interfacing on the pieces? Was your tension too tight on the serger? I made a tunic this summer and learned a new way to deal with the facing/interfacing issue. Place the interfacing and facing right sides together, sew, turn, and then fuse the facing. It worked out really well, and made the edges of the facing so much cleaner, laid flat, and wasn't bulky, and didn't have the stitch bulk from the serger, and this was good because it was a voile fabric.
Good luck, and sorry it was ruffly for you.
  
Member since 11/4/05
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Posted on: 11/16/11 11:25 AM ET
In reply to Vicsguy
Are you keeping the garment flat when stitching on the facing? The garment piece should be flat and the facing "ruffled" when you sew them together, otherwise you'll distort the garment.
If you did do that, then maybe the facing piece is too large. (it really should be smaller than the garment piece to allow for turn of cloth.)
Can you post a photo so we can see how it looks?

Juliette
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Juliette near Austin, TX
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Member since 2/12/06
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Posted on: 11/16/11 11:48 AM ET
My thoughts are that when you serged the edges you stretched them a bit. There are a lot of bias edges on facings. Very easy to stretch. Pressing and steaming after serging will help flatten them again.

Debbie

  
Member since 2/5/09
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Posted on: 11/16/11 7:58 PM ET
In reply to Vicsguy
Do you interface your facings? Bias stretches alot after sewing/serging
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Custom clothier and pattern designer. www.iconicpatterns.com
  
Member since 9/24/05
Posts: 81
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Posted on: 11/17/11 6:10 AM ET
Staystitching often helps with this sort of problem. Do it as soon as you unpin the pattern and sew directionally--for instance, on a neckline, start at the shoulder and staystitch to the center of the neck, then start at the other shoulder and then to meet at the center.
  
Member since 11/30/04
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Posted on: 11/17/11 6:35 AM ET
If the facing edges are "ruffling", I agree with an above poster. They probably stretched out being cut on the bias. Try using your differential feed next time on a sample piece. Just a small change might make a nice, unwavy difference on that facing edge.
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Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
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Member since 5/17/09
Posts: 224
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Posted on: 11/17/11 10:48 AM ET
I love this place!

The serger is stretching the facing edge. I measured the pattern and the final piece after serging it and the difference is nearly 3/4".

Thanks for all your great suggestions!
  
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