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Member since 2/4/12
Posts: 8
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Posted on: 2/6/12 6:58 PM ET
Can anyone tell me what it means when in a pattern you are shown which direction to cut with the grain of the fabric?
what does this mean and how do you do it?
I realize this is beyond basic, but I am an absolute beginner.
Thanks in advance.
:)
  
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2509
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Posted on: 2/6/12 7:16 PM ET
In reply to richsgirl
The grain is the direction in which the threads are running. Almost always it is the lengthwise threads that you line up your pattern pieces with.
Lengthwise threads are usually stronger than crosswise threads.

-- Edited on 2/6/12 7:18 PM --
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Ada
  
Member since 4/24/06
Posts: 316
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Posted on: 2/6/12 7:22 PM ET
It is a very good question - fabric grain is important. The lengthwise grain are the threads that run the same direction as the selvage (parallel to the selvage). Some of the pattern pieces will have an arrow which will state place on the grain. The arrow should be parallel to the selvege of the fabric, hence on grain. If the pattern piece is to be cut on the fold, then the fold of the fabric (usually right sides together) should be also parallel to the selvages.

The crosswise grains run across the fabric from one selvage to another and the bias is the diagonal line between the lenghtwise grain and the crosswise grains.

In the Guide Sheet that comes with the pattern there should be a diagram on the configuration of all the pattern pieces - look for that and I think that should help.
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Kemish
  
Member since 2/4/12
Posts: 8
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Posted on: 2/6/12 7:49 PM ET
Thanks alot for your responses. And for putting it in a way that I can understand. I know each craft and hobby has its own terminologies and lingo, but so far, sewing seems to have an especially vast language. I can see it will take many many years to become proficient, but I think it will be worth it!
  
Member since 11/27/06
Posts: 140
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Posted on: 2/6/12 8:39 PM ET
Good information has already been posted, I just thought I would share how I do it. I put the pattern piece on the fabric "eyeing" where the grain line on the pattern piece runs parallel to the selvege edges, then I put a pin in the top of the line on the pattern, to hold it in place, and measure from the line to the selvedge edge. Then I measure at the bottom of the line on the pattern piece over to the selvege, and if I have to, I adjust the pattern piece so it is the same measurement, then pin it to hold it place. And last, I re-measure both to make sure I didn't knock it off kilter

It is a pretty important step in laying out your pattern pieces, have fun!
  
Member since 6/24/06
Posts: 2472
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Posted on: 2/6/12 9:12 PM ET
In reply to richsgirl
Sometimes the fabric print (flowers with stems all going down) or fabric finish (suede/ velvet/fleece/satin) fabric has a color variation when going in opposite directions. In this case you would use "with nap" layouts, the hems of all pieces would be positioned in the same dirrection on the fabric. You still measure from the grainline to the fabric salvage equal amounts.

If you've ever had a pair of pants where 1 leg twists or a tshirt with the side seams twisted forward around the body these are examples of garments cut off-grain. They're unfomfortable to wear and no amount of twisting will ever help.
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Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.
  
Member since 5/19/06
Posts: 1771
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Posted on: 2/6/12 10:46 PM ET
Welcome richsgirl! to PR and the wonderful world of sewing!

More about fabric grain: the cross-wise grain is just as important as the lengthwise grain. If the fabric is cut off-grain, the garment will not hang properly or the project will not be the shape you want it to be. If the end of the length of fabric is hanging off the table when you cut your pattern, the fabric will be pulled off grain by the weight. Check to be sure that there is no undue tension on the fabric when you are laying out the fabric if the length is more than the surface you have to work on.

If you lay out the fabric to have the selvages line up so the lengthwise grain is straight, the cross-wise grain, across the width of the fabric may not be aligned. To get both aspects of the fabric grain straight, pull a thread from the weft, which are the threads that run from selvage to selvage (the weft is the threads that are woven across the warp, which are the lengthwise threads). Cut or tear the fabric along the pulled thread. A firm fabric like cotton broadcloth can be torn after cutting through the selvage; other fabrics and fibers are not so easy to tear. Once you have the cross-grain straight, you can square up the length and the cross-grain when you lay out the fabric. This is called graining up the fabric. Some fabrics are impossible to grain up because they are of poor quality or they are embroidered or otherwise embellished off-grain or they are of a weave that will naturally shift off-grain. Denim and twills tend to pull off-grain because of the nature of the twill weave. Square it up as best you can and cut short segments if you can, graining up as you go. Some fabrics, like chiffon, silky, soft-hand fabrics, linings, and loosely woven fabrics, are very difficult to work with because they shift all over the place when you work with them. There are a lot of tricks for working with these difficult fabrics.

For knits, use a rib for the lengthwise grain. I hold the edges together and shift the fabric until there aren't any obvious draping wrinkles. That gets the cross-grain close enough to square for most knits. I wish I could show you what I mean! The knowledge base has a lot of information, so check it out.

Consider getting a basic sewing reference book if you don't have one already. There are many good ones available. These days, you can also find lots of great, free(!) how-to-sew information on the internet with videos. Check out YouTube, PowerSewing, threads magazine websites for starters.

Have fun!
-- Edited on 2/6/12 10:48 PM --
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Fictionfan
  
Member since 2/4/12
Posts: 8
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Posted on: 2/7/12 1:28 AM ET
Thank you for all the valuable info. I think I am going to start a notebook to write these things down for reference.
It is great that you all are so willing to share your knowledge. I really appreciate it.
  
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 13915
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Posted on: 2/7/12 5:08 PM ET
In reply to richsgirl
You've gotten good information. I will add some advice about sewing in general. Get a good sewing book; the patterns really don't have good, complete information for a beginner. There are threads here on which books people like best recommend.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
  
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